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Id agree with mknauss on the pH. Id call it 7.9. If you leave the FC test alone itll start to turn pink again. Ignore that and stop the test when it goes clear the first time.

Adding chlorine to 4ppm is not the same thing as measuring 4ppm. So dont conclude anything based on that. Finish your 28 day startup. If you have organic matter on the plaster I’d get that removed asap.

No need to waste your reagents with the 25ml sample.

Check the kit to see if it ONLY tests chlorine and nothing else. It might be right but its rare for stores to carry it.

Ok, thats weird. I swear I looked up and saw plaster.

Id pressure test all the plumbing before doing anyrhing other than clean up. There may be a reason it was abandoned. The pool paints are not very durable, most seem to last 1-2 years

Sounds like you may have to call someone to check if the circuit breaker is on and it doesn’t have anything displayed on it, it sounds like power is not getting to it

Check the circuit breaker and make sure it’s not popped

Do you have metals in the water? That would be the only reason to add that stuff.

Everything looks normal, even the chlorine for regular operation. If you are going to slam then, obviously you want to raise that to the appropriate level, which is always rounded up to the nearest 10 so yours is 80 I guess I’d check your calcium hardness again as that’s kind of low for a...

You didnt post your CC level but if those are high you could have something brewing.

The OP said the kit was a K2006. Or did I miss a post?

Lots of horror stories but dont have statistic on how common or not, likely people only say something when things go wrong.

Id second this recommendation. 350ppm is really high and something not seen often. Maybe post a picture or video of the test for a second opinion.

Structural cracks are an indication that the underlying soil is moving or inadequate construction. (Probably the soil moving) Soil moving could be high ground water, a current leak in the pool, or a past leak in the pool. Some texas communities seem to have a goofy foundation watering system...

If they are fixing the issues thats the amends. If youre only issues are an autofil and plumbing leak you shouod be very grateful. 😉

I wont comment on the paint thing except to say you would be wise to get all the old paint off first so it can adhere better and last longer. I’m curious if your skimmer and deck are already cut, why keep the copper plumbing at all? Its quite easy to drill a hole in concrete with a hammer drill...

The OP should not bring down the TA with acid directly. If they add enough acid to lower the TA that much, the pH will drop too low below 7.2 and cause corrosion. A safer plan would be to just add enough acid to lower the pH to 7.2 and then wait for the pH to naturally rise to 8.0 again and...

You’ll need to pretty soon. 😉 The other TF kit will last a season or two.

Is there evidence of rebar in the concrete? If not, theres probably not much you can do except to fix any leaks ASAP as water getting in the ground compromises the soil and lets the concrete shift/sink.

Those valves are rebuildable, is there a reason you want to replace it?

How are you testing the TA? TA is pretty unimportant to be messing with compared to pH and FC.

As a newbie, the TF-100 is a better deal. If you do get the K2006C, make sure the “C” is there as its important because it has larger bottles of reagents.

The drive to the pool store will be a waste of gas. They use inaccurate equipment and have even worse advice that typically leaves you with $100+ in magic potions every time you go. And those supplies will many times make the problem worse.

Youll want to read the SLAM article again. It states to bring the pH up/down to 7.2 before starting the SLAM.

Dont waste any more money on test strips. They are pretty worthless.

FYI: A leak detector probably wont agree to come out if the pool is green.

Probably depends on how much there was to start. The pool store irons tests are pretty useless. They cant tell the difference between 0ppm and 0.3ppm.

If the numbers are close to what you needed, then wrap it up and put a bow on it, you’re done.

Your log says your pool is using about 2ppm FC per day. A couple days ago you measured 2.5ppm and then added 5ppm of liquid. Two days later you are back down to 2ppm. It seems to be adding up. You just need to add 2-2.5ppm of FC per day at a minimum. Try adding the 64oz every other day and see...