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Hello, fellow Las Vegan! Bleach is fine. I get mine from Sam's Club.

The cell itself is only 1 year old. When I pulled the board and replaced it, the error went away for a while, but it came back. I've made sure the cord is set firmly in the socket, but how would I test if there was a problem with the cord?

I've got a SWCG that's currently reading "Cell Power Error." Following guidelines on this forum, I pulled the main board to see of there was any burned spots behind the K1 joint. Doesn't look like that's the problem: Am I missing something? I'm not all that experienced with electrical...

To close out my original question, I made a last-ditch attempt to remove the bearing. It took an air-powered impact wrench turning the bearing puller, but I was able to finally get it off. No way I could have done it by hand. Had to tap new threads for the centrifugal switch, but that worked...

Kind of a big pool to try and circulate the chlorine with just a brush. Sooo.... :punkrock:a-shocking I will go, a-shocking I will go. Hi ho, the bleach will flow, a-shocking I will go! :punkrock:

Sorry about that. It's actually the k48n2n104, which is a 2 HP full rated motor.

The model number of the motor I've got right now is an A.O. Smith k48k2n104. I'm pretty sure the pump and motor were bought and installed by Leslies, but unfortunately, they told me that no Leslies in town has the equivalent 2-speed, so it would take 5-10 days to be delivered. So, if I wanted...

Okay, if I drop in a two-speed, is it a straight one-to-one replacement? I won't need to change the impellers? I've got an Aqua Logic PS-4, so hooking it up to my current equipment won't be that difficult, I just wasn't sure what other changes I'd need to make if I went with a two-speed...

I've got a Hayward RS 2000 pump with an AO Smith single speed, round flanged motor. Unfortunately, the motor was overheating, and when I opened it up, it seemed like the rear bearing was welded to the shaft, it was so stuck. Even using a set of bearing pullers, I just couldn't get the thing...

It's in the ground and buried under concrete decking. Not sure how much more immobilized the outside pipe can get. Thanks for the suggestions.

There's nothing for the strap wrench to grip. The only part remaining of the old fitting is the part that is actually inside the pipe in the wall. The outer ring is gone, as as the threaded portion of the holder that the outer ring screws onto. Nothing is sticking outside of the wall. I...

Well, I don't really have a picture, but maybe some more explanation might help. I bought a new eyeball fitting. It comes as three pieces: the inner holder, the eyeball, and the eyeball cap. The eyeball cap screws onto a flange on the inner holder. If you were to screw the cap on, secure...

I've noticed that the four return inlets in the pool are all 1" pvc pipes. Two of them have what looks like the remnants of the eyeball fitting stub in them, but the threaded portion is totally missing. Essentially, it looks like someone tried to remove the fittings by pulling it straight off...

Re: How many swimmers does it take to replace a pool light.. None. You can do it all from the deck. Getting in the water might make it easier, though, and it's perfectly safe as long as you shut off the electricity before doing anything.

I've got several different size returns in the pool. At one point, the pool was drained and the fittings were removed and never replaced. All I've got now are pvc pipes of varying sizes that lead into the pool and end at the concrete. The largest opening is threaded, but no water comes from...

And here's why you should listen to the folks on this forum, instead of the pool stores in the Las Vegas valley: the pool store recommended you use cal-hypo (the calcium chlorine). We have really, really hard water in Las Vegas. Adding more calcium is just not a good idea. Without careful...

My Aqualogic SWCG recommends a TA level of 80-120 ppm, but Pool School suggests 60-80 ppm instead. The manual also recommends a pH from 7.2-7.6, compared to Pool School's 7.5-7.6. Right now, my TA level is about 100, and the pH seems firmly pegged at 7.5 (hasn't moved in the last week...

Looks good so far. Keep in mind that with a CYA of 80, you need to keep your FC above 21 ppm(according to the Pool Calculator) or 30 ppm (Chlorine/CYA chart). Starting it at shock level and letting it drop will just lengthen the process, and require more chlorine.

Yep, that's in line with my test results for good ol' Southern Nevada water, too, except for the pH. My test showed it was more or less neutral. I seem to recall the TA was a bit lower too, but not by much. My current CH in the pool is around 1060. As long as I keep a close eye on the...

OCLT is "Overnight Chlorine Loss Test." It is one of the three tests your pool needs to pass in order for you to end the shock process. You can just slowly pour the bleach in front of a return. Make sure your pump is running 24/7 during the shock process. Remember, the BBB method is less...

Welcome to TFP! First, you should know that you've already taken a huge step towards having a clean, clear, and inexpensive pool just by finding this site. The folks on this site are by far the most helpful and friendliest folks on the web. Second, you should also know that in order to save...

I figured it was 120 volts, since I didn't see a transformer anywhere. After doing a few searches, it might be an older-style Amerlite, which can take 300, 400, or 500 watt bulbs. At least, it has a cone shape, and I found a manual for the Amerlite that looks kind of like my light, with a 3615...

I'm trying to replace a light bulb, but before I did, I wanted to make sure I for the right one. I pulled the fixture, hoping to get some information from the fixture, but tree only thing I found wras a very faint engraving on the lens, reading American Parts Company 3615. Anyway to tell the...

If your water was still cloudy, you may not have been finished with the shock process. You need to keep the chlorine levels up until your water is clear, the pool passes the OCLT, and you have CC of 0.5 or less. It looks like the algae wasn't quite dead yet, and it's blooming again. Your...

In my area, Lowes will sell you two different containers of MA, depending on which part of the store you get it from. If you go in the paint area, you can find a gallon of Klean-Strip MA at 31% strength for about $7. (Don't confuse that with the Klean-Strip Safer, which will probably be right...

The caps may be vented, but don't they have the plastic/metallic seal over the opening?

I've found MA at Lowe's in two places within the store. In the outdoor or pool section, they carry 15.7% MA, and its sold 2 gallons at a time under "Kem-Tek Pool Muriatic Acid." In the paint section, or wherever you'll find concrete cleaner, they sell 1 gallon bottles of 31.45%. They also...

Update: I added a final round of pictures to show the current state of the pool. The pictures don't show how clear it actually is now, because the pool was getting mostly indirect light (the sun was almost down, and so a lot of the pool was in the shade). There is still some kind of staining...

The best method involves you sitting in a lounge chair with a cold beverage, telling the kids they need to wash a little better in between those pleats. :whip: Or, you could look through the thread mentioned.

You know who tells you that? Guys who want to sell you copper-based algicide, which is good if you want to stain your pool and turn your hair green. Not so good if you want a trouble-free pool. Oddly enough, I've even seen a site hawking copper algaecide that claims algae is a fungus (it...