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Did you just say test strips. Before you go by more stuff you need a real test kit Those test strips will not give you any accuracy.

It meant to be outdoors but instructions somewhere say to shield it from direct sun as best as possible.

Hopefully you'll only use TFP approved chemicals then the sand will keep doing its job.

Just a FYI the never lube valves can be used internally or externally. A 2" valve is 2" inside and 2.5" outside and the 1.5" valve is that internally 1.5" is externally 2".

Possibly: Weir doors not operating properly, water level not up to mid skimmer height, lube pump lid gasket and one or two pump drain plugs. One other place if you have a pump union on the suction side of the pump that will also have a gasket that may be pulling in air.

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Did you tighten up the small copper tubing where it connects to the pressure switch. It needed to be opened up for winterizing.

Also running the FC at the high side of target gives you some extra time to catch a problem when something slides south.

If you have a properly sized gas line I'd go the 399k btu. It'll use the same total amount of gas per the pool capacity to reach a gi en set point but just heat it quicker meaning it uses more gas for less time vs less gas for more time on a smaller heater = the same amount of gas used.

There's a difference. The stairs are within the cover and the covers edge is passed the vinyl stair coping like by a good bit on the other hand the skimmer cover have the pool cover binding/reinforced edge go right over half the skimmer so maybe something in the binding material or when the pool...

If it were the yellow half that was exposed and white under cover I'd blame sun but his was the reverse so it has something to do with the cover materials bleeding off some chemicals. Get the new covers and use for the summer season then before you cover the pool for the off season put the...

@Newdude make sure the net is used right side in otherwise you're using the wrong side of the leaf rake lip. Ask me how I know this.

Just to add when testing as above that is with the cell connected so you'd raise the plug just enough to get contact with the pins.

Regardless the CYA of 30 needs to be higher for the SWCG. Albeit your over night test comes back good the moment the sun hits the pool your below in the FC category so your skirting danger with algae which seems to line up with the rpm problem.

Follow the above advice but your CYA being there doesn't mean that it can't be algae either.

Yes, it is just make sure it's not expired.

You need to have a non expired test kit from one of the 2 recommended ones in the list and then post all the results in the following format: FC CC PH TA CH CYA SALINITY (for salt water pools)

Just a FYI when you initiate a slam you add the FC according to poolmath then you need to check at 10 minute intervals till you can hold the slam level. After that it would be best every 2 hours to test only FC loss and no othere tests but keep topping off the CYA level to match slam. Brushing...

Please feel free to ask away after reading especially before adding in anything to your water.

I'd say trust your black dot test but just to be sure give us your step by step on your CYA testing.

I think you're going at this blindly. Here are some links to give you a better understanding of what's the order of business is on this forum.

I wouldn't do a new deck till the vertical crack is addressed with staples as mentioned above.

With a heater going on 17 years there's not much life left in it so don't invest another dime. That rust basically means it's done.

You need to add the granular CYA via the sock method in front of an active return jet. Any granular via the skimmer can take up to a week to be fully in the water and that would mean NO backwashing for one week. Well with a slam in progress you're just wasting the CYA that way. You may be...

Theare two separate vacuums where one utilizes your filter system to operate and also needs a booster for pressure side but for a suction side it would still need the filter and for the robotic cleaners they operate independently of the pool equipment so not sure why a robotic cleaner need to...

Can't read your model number but assuming it was one of the listed ones it should take care of the problem.

Not that I can recall but I'm thinking just going by his media this was a 2023 build which means this was winter #1 for that cover. Something tells me it's bleed off of sorts from a brand new cover possibly. I wonder if it would be soaked in something like crud kutter it may come white again...

What are your test results and how are you testing. SWCG are meant to maintain a good balanced water but it can't bring it up fast enough. You'll need liquid chlorine and do the testing....with a recommended test kit.

Do you have a valve where you hold the water back or use winter plus in the return and skimmer but that'll only work if you don't have a main drain.

The cya is the last chem you want in the water until you have a sure grip on what you have going on. If you need to slam 30 CYA is perfect otherwise you'll need lots of chlorine for the same outcome.