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Ok. Thank you

@ajw22 Here are the readings for each scenario (in the order of cycling through them): starting 0.71 28.3 -0.00 73P 0500 At - 5 r611 t - 15 E000 --EE next 0.71 12.2 21.4 -3.73 -4.51 73P 2500 At - 5 r611 t - 15 E000 --EE after off for 1 minute 0.73 18.2 -3.04 73P 3700 At - 5 r611 t - 15 E000 --EE

I know the reading on the SWG is wrong - it has stayed exactly the same "2200" despite what I ma sure have been drastic salinity changes

The SWG is powered through the same 220 as the pump. Variable speed pump runs 24/7 but slower at certain times. I have tried the on off auto switching And leaving off for a minute or more Tried full power off for a minute or so

I have 3 year old Blue Works Model BLH60-A SWG. I moved my pool equipment to a covered warmer place this past summer so I did not close my pool this winter. I notice back in the fall the salinity read 2200 despite knowing it was higher - assumed it was due to colder water temp. Today...

Thanks to everyone that replied!! I know have my ThermoMart remote up and working. The guy that helped me lift the heater when I installed it had set the small bag with the remote wiring harness aside -- and yes it does appear that the "online " manula is a bit deprecated. But all is well...

Thank you!!

Ok I’ll look for anything that could have been set aside The replacement heater just arrived last week

I may have to. Saturday evening, just hoping someone had seen a 400FDN without the remote connections (and a possible solution)

You know if you are going to be a smart Rear then no need to reply any further! I can hope for ideas from others. I received a 400 FDN directly from Hayward. I can gladly send photos of the 400FDN heater but they will be the same as every 400FDN I’ve seen or had. I sent pictures of the board.

The model is a 400FDN The power connects on the bottom right side just like the last 4 400FDNs that I’ve had There is a junction box on the right wall of the heater when you take the front panel off

There are no other wires there except the power wires I’m the one that connected power to the heater. Only three wires. Load, line and ground. There are no wires or junction like the manual shows.

I purchased a ThermoMart temperature control device. It allows for 2 wire remote control connection to a pool heater. According to the Hayward 400fdn manual there should be a junction box that has the place for the 2 wire connection for "remote control". I cannot for the life of me seem to...

I think I found the issue ! I got home today and was able to open the front and examine the damage. Electronics seen fine. Tested and the only thing not working is the gas valve ….. it was near the heat of the fire and does not respond to the 24v pulse that is coming to it. The issue was...

Heater about 10 ft below pool level Main room air supply - room is 28x20 ft with lots of ability for ingress of air Outdoor garage pool equipment area

There also seems to be some controversy re the vent kit -- Hayward suggests kit UHXPOSHZ14006 The kit on there was recommended by inyopool I can't see any differnece in them but another person had said "that was the wrong vent kit". I attached a screenshot of the 2 side by side

The heater is between 2 and 3 years old - Hayward 400FDN Gas is 3/4 black pipe, I have not measured pressure recently but has never been an issue before , same line has been used (not at that time) for outdoor fire pit , etc

Our heater exchanger was recently replaced after a small leak had started. I usually do the work myself but the pool equipment was being moved so I just had the local pool guy do it. The heater has worked well for a few weeks except for a smell like , in retrospect , would have been burning...

I would really really hope to avoid pulling up travertine if at all possible