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Did you rinse it after the ahh-some treatment? Did you run the pumps for 10-15 seconds after you emptied it? It might just be me residual ahh-some left over. I sometimes have to fill it and empty it again. Did you bring it up to slam levels before ahh-some?

I test my spa & pool for salt monthly. I never get more, I always have to add

Bleach does not add salt to the water

I'm in the northeast. No way I'm going out to change the water now. I do it in November and then as soon as it warms up.

I had the same issue. And Chased it for awhile. Now I just leave the TA at 40 and my PH stays stable.

What you need to do is slam There's a detailed write up in pool school. But the basics are to test often and keep the fc up to slam levels until you pass an overnight chlorine loss test

What's funny, is mine is the reverse of yours. I had 1500ppm and had to take it down to 1100ppm. I couldn't get my FC low enough. My next drain and fill I might even try 950ish That info should come with the manual [emoji53]

Glad you can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel[emoji846][emoji108]

Mine is Bromine, yes it is inline. Here's my write up on it. Salt water bromine generator install

Make sure you get the 872 reagent with your Taylor test kit. 871 is for chlorine 872 is for bromine They will test close but the chlorine will sometimes be off by 1ppm If you have an Ozone generator, try to keep your bromine between 2-4. No Ozone, 3-5 It's a pita with the cartridges and you...

Are you using non chlorine shock? That can also come up as cc

Make sure you get some ahh-some for your next drain and fill. Maybe do it twice if you get a lot of yellow gunk the first time.

With your high cc you should leave it open for a couple hours, if you get a sunny day. It will help burn it off. But it also says you might have something going on. Maybe the SWG is working and the fc is just getting consumed. Keep a close eye on it.

What's your CC? Everything else looks good

I'm not great with the calculating, but let's try and work through it "add 0.00013 ounces per gallon to raise the chlorine by 1 ppm" .00013 x 450 gallons = 0.0585 ounces If you want 4 ppm 4 x 0.0585 = 0.234 ounces .234 ounces = 6.5770894 grams That would be for your regular maintenance...

I'm pretty sure you would have to blow out the lines. I think you could have more damage if things freeze. I live in NY and I would be worried if the temps were getting into the freezing range and my heater wasn't working. I haven't had to deal with that yet...

What the tech explained to me is that the salt ppm has a direct relation to the sanatizer produced. You can't go too low or too high because it might not work. My SWG has a low conductivity /high conductivity warning. But a couple ppm should be fine. Worth a shot.

Yes

Salt can make a difference. I had 1500ppm, from the manual. And I couldn't get the generator low enough. I called the company and they told me to get it to 1100ppm. That worked.. Y not yet adding 3/400ppm Mine is a 24 hour circulator pump. Low dose all day. Keeps it in the 3/4 ppm range. When...

That shouldn't be the case. I love mine and I know others in here love there's. Maybe try running it for longer?

Unfortunately if you disconnected everything from the board and the gfi trips, it most likely is the board. One other thing to try is: With the power OFF, disconnect main wires feeding the board. Tape them well with electrical tape. Make sure they are clear from any ground or metal parts...

My board has plus for everything, heater, pumps, lights... Unplug 1 at a time and turn the breaker on for each. When it doesn't trip, you know where your problem is. If you unplug everything, it could be your main board.

With the breaker off remove the wires going to the spa. Verify you have the right side and they are not live before attempting this. Then try to reset the breaker. If it trips, replace the breaker, if it doesn't you have a problem in the spa. That's the first step

It probably has 1. They do sell test kits online, but I'm not familiar with them or know if they work? Maybe someone else will come in?

You can remove the cover where your electronics are. It should have a wiring diagram. Look if it says Ozone generator. Look at the components inside the tub. See if any say Ozone generator. Or just shoot for 4. It's in range either way. [emoji846]

Do you have an Ozone generator? Bromine should be 2-4 No Ozone? 3-5 I have Ozone and shoot for 4.

Just under 10 should be fine

Yes PH is not accurate when bromine /chlorine levels are above 10

Yeah I rode the roller coaster for the first month or 2. Now, after a drain and fill, I add enough baking soda to get me to 40 and PH just falls into place.

The TA PH relationship can be a pain to get right. What works for some is to let the TA get down to 40 with Muratic acid. My PH stays stable at that level from the time I fill it until I drain it.