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First off thanks for all the replies so fast, its safe to swim if the water is clear ? What FC levels should I shoot for ? I would like to wait until start of next season if I have to replace water, some conflicting information about if its forever or will go away.

Would the bromide raise it that much ? google results say the sun will burn the bromide up , is that true ?

No salt added just bleach and the algicide (sodium bromide)

Yes it does . ~4800

Not sure why it’s not showing my signature.

It’s a pentair IC-60 i will add to signature

James all my levels were good before the algae , salt was right around 3500

I see nothing on the label about not using in a salt pool .

The FC is holding its 9-10 level with full sun 90 degrees today and the intellichlor is blinking high salt . Is that still making chlorine?

FC 9 Cc 0 Alk 90 Cal 300 Salt level reading 4800 Ph 7.1

No it’s still a chlorine pool

Added the bromide per my pool builder tech but we got the calculations wrong , not using the heater water is 87 , it’s been hot here and will be all week, pool is full sun all day .

It’s a large pool so each slam was probably around 40 gallons give or take . Also 6lbs of sodium bromide(way more than needed wife miscalculated)

In the past month I have slammed the pool twice for what I suspect is algae, both times for 3 days , 1st time just bleach , 2nd time bleach and algaeside . Water was clear but my FC was coming in low again. Now the salt generator is saying high salt and my Tayler salt kit also says it’s high...

Followed the Slam procedure a couple weeks back and thought the algae was gone for weeks but now it appears it’s back, FC was low this morning 3.5 instead of 5 so I added bleach and it’s cloudy again like before . Do I Slam again or what next ? Thanks

The water got really cloudy after adding the bleach to bring to slam level, I don’t recall this happening last time I had to slam but that was years ago

I guess that’s better than needing a new IC40. Is it ok to swim during slam if water is clear and FC levels are in range ? Thanks

I’m running the IC40 at a higher % than last year and still getting those lower FC numbers I assumed it was equipment related I never thought of algae.

I updated original post CYA is 80

Also could I replace with a IC60? It’s a large pool around d 45k gallons.

I have noticed my FC levels have been low this year and came out to zero chlorine about 10 days ago, I assumed it was the filters because I had seen the De not sticking so great to filters so I put in new and cleaned the IC40 chlorinater re tested the next day and the levels were better FC was...

I’d like to add I’ve called pentair twice to try and get some answers, the heater guys sent me to automation and the automation guys sent me to heaters !?

I should have done that a long time ago!

Both heaters are working and everything is good , was just curious how the heat pump preference mode works or determines which heater to use and is there any settings I can play with ? Couldn’t have installed it without the help of this forum , thank you !

Thank you

Trying to figure out largest NG heater I can run . I have 2psi pressure 180’ length 3/4” pipe. Thanks

Eventually you would think it break down though right ? Or I would get pieces of it coming out .

This is season 5 for pool , start of season it was fine but I have noticed that the middle waterfall started having less and less pressure . I don’t think I’m losing water . One valve directs 100% of the water to the 3 waterfalls . Any ideas ?