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Page 17 of the manual under general cautions. https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/product-related/product-manuals/pool-and-spa-equipment/intellichlor/IntelliChlor_Owners_Manual_Version_3_units_after_Nov_2011_English.pdf

Per the Intellichlor manual, is it true that you can’t add chemicals to the water with the SWG switched on? For a few days I’m just adding chlorine to keep levels up until I get the new IC60. Anything I need to worry about for initial startup of the IC60?

Will do

I do not believe it was removed during the winter. I just purchased in April, but I'm pretty sure it was installed when I moved in.

Thanks. Are mfg dates usually pretty close to install dates? I don't know exactly when it was installed. I'm going to get an IC60 this time.

See picture. While it said 60% used up, this is a pretty old date, no? I just bought the house in April.

but sensor for what?

Which sensor? The temperature one seems to be reading properly. The salt one is reading properly. Is there another? No valves that can be shut off from the bottom unfortunately. Only valves are upstream of the main pump and right before the pool vs spa which I set to spa. Nothing was flowing...

Got it off and took a close look at the metal plates. They were generally quite clean. Maybe a little bit of calcium buildup on one of the plates but nothing to significant. The plates themselves looked ok as well. I went ahead and hooked it back up and again within a few minutes it was flashing...

I tried both directions. Do you mean clockwise or counter clockwise?

These are stuck. Any suggestions? I tried Channel locks but they just took off some of the plastic.

I will check those out. Can I dump the acid/water mix from the IC40 after cleaning into the pool? I suppose it would lower pH a bit (which is fine).

Merged threads. Posting here for hopefully more insight (re-post from my thread in Just Getting Started): Pool company guy screwed up... I have power cycled and while it goes solid green for the first 10 minutes, it then goes back to flashing green. Should I try to clean it? What should I be...

I will follow the cleaning protocol tomorrow based on the owners manual. Any tips are welcome. Haven't tested salt in a while, but 2800 last I checked. The salt level light on the unit is green.

Correct

@mknauss I know you have an IC40. Any thoughts on what I’m seeing?

So, just came home from a couple of days away and the check cell light on the IC40 was flashing again. Another power cycle and it’s back on solid again.... thoughts on appropriate next steps? Edit: and 10 minutes later it’s flashing again.

Thanks! Saves me an annoying cleaning process.

Yep, in the house. Done and the light is now solid green after starting up again... would love to understand why that worked if you know?

How?

Sorry for the silence on this thread. It’s been a busy summer. All has been excellent with the pool by following the TFP method. Crystal clear water, etc. my TA has come down and while my pH still tends to drift up, I’m easily able to bring it back down with a smallish amount of muriatic acid...

I feel like you can’t be adding that much muriatic acid. Are you SURE that’s what the container says? Can you take a picture of it and the strength?

Everyone now waive to our friends at the NSA :handwave:

You don’t need to be at exactly 10ppm for the OCLT. Don’t worry about adding more FC at dusk if it’s 8 or 9. Then test again in the morning before sun up.

Ha, luckily that was a different guy the next day with the pool on filter.

It’s a 30 year old pool so I’m guessing pretty old technology.

I think wiring was checked at the junction when they unhooked it to confirm that the pool light was working fine. This one for $300 is not LED. The LED light was quoted at $750. I’ve attached a picture of the non-working spa light and the working pool light for reference.