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Sounds like you are starting to understand the bbb method 1 question though what is your cya? At the recommended levels 40-50 the lowest your fc should ever get is 3. Your post states your fc drops to 1.5 which might get you a problem unless you are running a lower cya

Re: TF100 new user - FC reading way different from Pool Stor Trust your own measurements For peace of mind tell us what steps you tookto get your results be fairly precise how much water how many scoops drops etc.

Pool calc should be giving you a range for fc 3-7 You should dose with chlorine daily up to the 7 ppm And never let it go below 3 if below 3 for any significant time organics can get a small foothold and over time consume more chlorine then you are adding Recap you should be targeting 7 fc not 5

Your chlorine usage is do to something organic consumming it Your cya could be higher then 110 as the test only is accurate up to 110. You can try a diluted test of 50% tap water 50% pool water then double the result to semi confirm how high it is With your CC and high chlorine use you are...

Not conflicting at all drain when above 80 ie 90 and higher do a drain. Maintain at 80 not above for swg

Do you have a solar heater that is fairly high. If so you might have a small leak in one of the lines above pool level Took me over month to figureout and find mine as it diddnt let water out but sucked air in through a joint that was glued but not primed

Take the cover off for several hours of sun to help eliminate your cc but keep fc at shock

Not sure if diluting will give you good enough results to know if you have fully passed an oclt you should really get a fas/dpd test from tftestkits.com. You still could have something in your water

I honestly still think it could be organic. I would redo the onclt making sure to measure 1 hour after any chlorine added (shutting off swg). From rereading all post looks like you need to rereading pool school on shocking and lowering Ta. To lower ta add acid to get ph down to 7.0 the aerate to...

Was the swg off? Pump running all night?

You need to do an overnight chlorine loss test if you went a week without swg on most likely got something growing. If you loss more the 1 fc the you need to do a shock process as described in pool school

Try useing a hose a flush out your filter. I had same issue (central pa also) and once I cleAned out the sand pool cleared up overnight I think the mild winter left stuff grow in the sand that didn't comeout with a backwash or something

I had a resin post cover get snapped by the wire last year my fault for not checking that the wire was under the cover.

You should be checking fc levels at least every couple of hours not just at night and morning. I have a feeling your fc is dropping below shock level during tye day giving algea a chance to survive. Adding chloine several time a day to maintain shock level is the fastest way to fix your pool

Might be possible to fix Turn off all water then take pump cover off till you see impeler try turning it if it doesnt turn take pump further apart to remove obstruction If it turns it can be many things Try checkinh the centrifical (sp) switch on the back of the motor shaft it might be stuck in...

Wait until you can devote more time. It will just keep comeing back until you kill it all.

To me the best way to see if someone knows how to best care for a pool would be ask them the following Questions. What is the relationship between CYA and Chlorine? And what is the best levels of each for my pool? If they cant fully expain the relationship as taught here at TFP and say that...

Post up your full test results should be Ok with Fc up to shock and <.5 CC

This is a personal choice but i will siwm in water up to shock level which for a CYA of 40 would be 16.

www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/chl ... art_shock/ And the pool calculator both recommend 4-6 I know that for me that 1 ppm made a large difference in my battle with algae. Not saying that is what is your problem. Just better to help prevent it.

You should be keeping a fc of 4-6 with a cya of 80 and swg not 3-5

I must be an odd ball. I kind of have the reverse problem. While leveling out my yard to install my pool my neighbors and 1 of their friends spontaniously invited them self over with shovles and picks to help. Even though I had been neighbors with them for 5 years, we had only been the friendly...

I have to disagree the most spectacular would be a TFP that I would be in. So right now my simple 24' ABG is the most spectacular Pool in the World

Yep You need stabilizer Use the Pool Calculator to see how much to add 30 to 50 unless you have a SWG Test to make sure your FC stays in the recomended levels for your CYA level Muratic Acid is cheaper to Lower your PH. If you already have the PH down it will be fine though! Read pool school

parallel to joist right up against the joist for a place to nail the new board down.

That could be possible but the humming sounds to me like the motor was trying to turn but not enough power which is what the centrifugal switch does is give the motor a kick start. I think heat sometimes causes the switch to stick. The day my neighbors stuck it was hot out and the motor was...

its located on the back of the motor shaft it is conected to the shaft with springs (aprox 1 inch long) the one I fixed was 2 parts 1 spring on each side of the shaft. I was thinking maybe there is an electrical lube that could be used as it seems these could get stuck on their guides fairly...

centrifugal switch would be my bet. My neighbors pump did the same thing. Pool store said it was done for. I stated I would take his pump if he really wanted to listen to them. He allowed me to take a look. i look online and under the troubleshooting guide in the owners manual was centrifugal...