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Here is the pic from 8. I'll need to get the full pad photo tomorrow. The circuit in question is the one with the orange leads, connecting to the black block at the bottom.

Thanks. To clarify, the measurements I mentioned above are without the pump in the circuit. I do have normal voltage for the other 2 pumps. Is it typical that all the pumps run off the same 240V breaker, or would they have separate breakers?

Hi all. I posted in this thread, but apparently, that one is inactive. So starting a new one. I've been diagnosing (throwing money at) my spa jet pump, which isn't working. As mentioned in that thread, I did have the pump rebuilt and it runs beautifully on the bench. I need a little advice...

So I finally got the pump motor rebuilt locally, and ordered a new wet end. Put it all together... and it turns out it still won't run. Took it back to the motor shop where they bench tested it for me. It runs fine on the bench... where they had 240V (actually 208V) between lines 1 and 2...

Here is a belated update on the situation. * I eventually pulled the pump. I hesitated for a while because I couldn't figure out a way to keep water from leaking out of the inlet and outlet pipes. * I dissembled the pump and motor. I found that the motor+impeller turned, but not easily...

The cap matches exactly with the old one, spec-wise. I did take a pic. But it seems like I didn't need to replace it since it made no difference. I wasn't able to measure the voltage at the pump leads because the back of the motor is only about 2 inches from the wall of the house and I can't...

I'm able to get 120 V (and only 120 for some reason... I thought the pump runs at 230V) at and across the capacitor. The back of the pump is up against the house wall with only about 2 inches of clearance, so I can't even get my multimeter probes onto the contacts. Still, when exercising the...

So the PF220 finally worked. I had to replace the socket, but the bulb that arrived with it was faulty. After the supplier sent another I have light again, and it does seem brighter.

OK, so I installed the new relay, and it didn't help. But when I restored power and tried it out, the pump motor hummed for several seconds and then went quiet. It tripped the circuit breaker too. I reset the breaker and tried again. No hum at all this time. Also, there is no voltage...

Ok, so I did some troubleshooting and I suspect it's the relay. My box looks exactly like @Ahultin 's image above. The relay in question is the bottom one. The relay does click when I turn on the pump. And I can see through the transparent housing and see that the internal parts moved when I...

Thanks! I'll work on it this weekend and hopefully, I can figure it out.

Thanks. I reached out to an online bulb specialist in parallel and found the PF220. Also, in speaking with them I learned that they offer the complete socket. They claim that the socket is bad if the bulb burns out easily, which mine have. So I ordered it and a PF220 and I'll report back...

Thanks, that's helpful. I'll see if I can diagnose this. I did search for these online and yes, they seem pretty expensive for what they are. Still, paying $140 isn't too bad a penalty for getting my jets back.

How do you know the difference in the bulbs? Nowhere I've seen the bulb advertised has the lumens been specified.

Thanks for this tip. When you wrap it in electrical tape, do you then cut through the tape, or do you want to make the cut below the tape? I think the fiber cable is coiled up in the tower so should have plenty.

No, but that sounds like a potential culprit. Not sure where/how to access. It must be in the controller's box somewhere?

Hi all, I suspect my CP3000 is not triggering my spa jet pump. The pump is inoperative when I switch it on, whereas the other two pumps (filter, slide/feature pumps) work fine. I replaced the capacitor on the jet pump, no dice. And when I run a electricity detector (this) along the power...

And I should mention, I'm aware of the available upgrade kits. But I'm looking to avoid swapping out the fiber optic cables and draining my pool just to install the new lights. I just want to wire a stronger bulb into the control tower.

Hey all, Like most people who have these, my fiberoptic lighting system has always been pretty dim. This is despite my best efforts to clean the lens. And now it looks like the bulb socket had an arc in it as the bulb I just removed had a melted pin. Looks like I need to cut off the bulb...

Thanks very much. I orderd and installed the new TS5L but I now doubt I needed it. I didn't realize I could calibrate the sensor until I installed the new one and it read 3 degrees even farther off than the old one. I recalibrated but have not run the spa yet to see if it solves the issue...

OK, so I attempted to replace the sensor. I installed the recommended sensor, but when I did so I got an Err1 on the CP3000. The sensor has a red and a white wire, while the board indicates green and red (old sensor was green/red). No matter which way I connect the new sensor I get the error...

Thanks very much! That definitely makes sense. Looks like it consistently reads 5 degrees high no matter the actual water temp. Inspecting it just now I can see that some insulation has rubbed away where it was zip tied to the inlet of the spa jet pump. So for a $22 part I'll just go ahead...