Search results

Can you share a complete set of test results and add details about the test kit you're using in your signature? Hopefully monitoring pH along the way?

With your CYA at 80, the target range for FC is 6-11 (from the calculator on the FC/CYA page), and the bare minimum you want is 4 ppm. So I think you have it set right, especially considering that the sun is getting higher in the sky every day now, and your FC loss will increase. I aim to stay...

We all started where you are. It can be overwhelming at first, but keep at it, and you'll be a pro by the end of the season. Hopefully you've found the SLAM article, and read through the various pool school articles. The key with the SLAM is the Maintain part...it will take at least a few...

In case you haven't done this already. it's worth testing the fill water that you use with your K-2006 to see what you're adding. I tested both my softened and un-softened water: Un-softened: TA=110, CH=150, pH=7.6 Softened: TA=110, CH=25, pH=7.8 So, in my case, the TA isn't (measurably)...

The water softener adds some sodium to the water, but doesn't add salt. The salt is used by the softener in the process of maintaining itself. The salty water from that maintenance process gets flushed through a separate drain periodically, and only the sodium remains to use in the ion...

I know it's not what you asked, but would a better solution be to use a GFCI circuit breaker? I use one for my pool lights/SWCG and a second breaker for a circuit of backyard outlets and have been very happy.

I believe you are able to adjust the preset speeds on the pump itself through its menus...they aren't fixed speeds. My VSP never runs at its maximum speed...I have 4 presets that I use for different purposes. You could experiment and see what speed works best for your solar, and what speed...

One suggestion would be to bring your FC up to SLAM level before your trips. But, I'm not sure your FC would stay above minimum for 3 days in summer. You could experiment with it before your trips and see how long the FC can hold out. If you have a cover that will reduce your FC loss...

I think this is a key insight. Chlorine needs to be managed so that there's never a time it gets below the minimum, and is the only parameter that changes quickly. That's why we all love our SWCG so much. pH should only rise (unless you're somehow adding acid from CYA or acid injection), and...

In addition to the video Reggie posted above, many of us have posted threads on our installation experiences on this forum (a link to mine is below). Spend some time searching and reading stuff here and ask questions. That's what I did and I couldn't be happier with my SWG setup. Like others...

We resurfaced our pool a few years ago, and I initially tried to comply with requirements similar to what your manufacturer has. It was very difficult to get a "perfect" test result from the pool store (the only reasonable place for me to get a test from a "reputable company"). That 7.2-7.4 pH...

In addition to the good advice above, if your CYA really is 70 or 80, your FC is well below the minimum, and way below the target value. If you haven't done it already, check out Pool School in the margin on the left, and you'll find the FC vs. CYA chart there. Otherwise, your pool won't be...

Thanks for the feedback...I'm glad I'm not the only one who experiences this! Any thoughts on how tight would be too tight?

I cleaned my Pentair FNS+60 DE filter a few weeks ago and it has developed a leak under the belt clamp. I generously lubed the o-ring and have tightened the clamp so that the springs touch and even a turn or two beyond that. I believe the filter assembly was installed with the pool 20+ years...

I live up the coast from you in Ventura County...our HD is $17 per 2 gallons too, but our local Lowe's still has MA for $14 if there's one of those near you.

The interface I have is called a Pentair IntelliComm II interface adapter. If you search, you should be able to find the documentation for it to see if it would be compatible with your panel. Hopefully there are others here who know more about what you need for your exact setup.

My setup is very similar to yours. When you switch on the solar, does the pump show that it switches to a different preset speed? For me, the pump will show "running speed X" on its screen, where X is a number corresponding to the four speed buttons under the screen. If the running speed...

Just to make sure you know, backwashing won't remove CYA in any significant amount, only draining and refilling will reduce CYA.

I'm not sure which CYA view tube you're using, but TFTestkits has a smaller option that doesn't need as much water/reagent.

This is the main issue. The bare minimum FC using a SWG with a CYA of 60 is 3. I'd aim for 6 or 7 so that you have a buffer. Once your FC is allowed to drop below the minimum (even if it's just for a little while), you're giving algae (and other microorganisms) a chance to gain a foothold...

I get it from Lowe's and HD. Where I am, up north of you in Cali, HD and Lowe's only carry 10% LC...Leslie's has 12.5% near me, but the higher strength isn't worth the extra cost. My Lowe's and HD can have very old LC on the shelf. Make sure to check the date code on the box...it'll be YYDDD...

I really find the standard solution for CYA to be useful. You know the "answer" is a CYA of 50, and it helped me figure out what it meant for the dot to disappear.

Definitely true...there are a million little things to be done that are specific to your installation. I wouldn't use the word "perfect"...I'd say that you just need to make sure you're within the TFP ranges. In this case, the main thing with chemical balance is just making sure you don't add...

I live up north of you in Ventura County and installed an RJ60+ a little over a year ago. Last winter, it didn't stop producing until the water temp got down around 55°. That happened very infrequently...maybe a total of 15 days? I added 2 gallons of LC all winter. If you get the RJ60+ with...

I don't know about calcium levels in fiberglass pools, but it has been a common forum topic...I'd suggest searching and seeing what people have to say. Maybe someone else can comment on why the recommended level show that. As far as I know, calcium won't affect your heater, pH is the main...

I would wait and see how long it takes for your pH to rise. If it shoots up above 8 really quick, then you'll want to gradually bring the TA down. If your pH stays in the 7s, then don't worry about TA. You should test your fill water too, so that you know the TA of the water you're adding...

It wasn't my intent to offend you, I was just trying to help. These values would be difficult to obtain from a TF-100, that's why I thought it was possible that you were using a pool store.

A bit low, TFP recommends 50 as the minimum for TA (see recommended levels) Adding CYA will decrease pH (the A in CYA is Acid), so will likely decrease your TA at least a little bit. You should consider raising your CYA though to reduce your FC loss. I don't remember the percentages, but...

The precision of some of your reported values suggest that you're relying on pool store testing. TFP recommends you use a test kit at home ... go here for more info. You need to determine your CYA value to determine the appropriate free chlorine level, but if the 3 ppm you report is accurate...

You can install the SWG in any orientation. I thought it was suggested to have the flow switch oriented so that the water flows up through it, but I couldn't confirm that in a quick search I just did. Circupool makes a vertical install kit that you might find helpful...