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Re: Leaves Found In Impeller - Getting Past the Pump Basket- sure I will ........thanks for helping me.

Re: Leaves Found In Impeller - Getting Past the Pump Basket- could it be that the leaves are being sucked in above the top of the pump basket between the top rim of the pump basket and the adjacent "surface" on the pump housing/lid?

Re: Leaves Found In Impeller - Getting Past the Pump Basket- Let me make sure of this... There is only one gasket or O ring and it is up in the cover so it seals the cover to the main pump housing......is this correct?

Re: Leaves Found In Impeller - Getting Past the Pump Basket- Its a brand new basket ........Ive checked it again and I dont see any cracks in it... Is it possible that the leaves could be getting thru the small holes.......... The leaves I pull out of the impeller are whole leaves and not...

Re: Leaves Found In Impeller - Getting Past the Pump Basket- The pump is a Hayward NorthStar............the basket only goes in one way........

My pump keeps getting starved because leaves are somehow getting past the pump basket and into the impeller..this keeps happening throughout the fall as the leaves enter into the pool..I have a Hayward pump and I put in a new pump basket last summer...it is like new no cracks etc etc....I have...

Re: converting to a salt water system with a heater/metal pa Sounds like you are right about the location of the check valve...thanks!

no, I already cut the numbers in half - the numbers I gave are half the number of drops....thanks!

checked my book - I ran it once and got 18ppm and 20ppm on the second test...it's based on the number of drops so dont see how it cannot be in half increments??? anyway those are the numbers I got....

I used the FAS-DPD chlorine test to measure CC and FC.

CC is 0 to .5 ppm water is cystal clear OCLT showed less than 1.0 ppm loss

yes i ran my test yesterday FC was between 15 and 20 ppm and CC was 0 -.5 ppm

meant to say 5 and 7 ppm

FC should be between 4 and 7 for CYA at 60 .......... mine is between 15 and 20 ppm so it needs to drop down... also high Chlorine levels are not healthy to swim in.. CYA (Stabilizer) Minimum FC Target FC Shock FC 20 2 3 10 30...

But how long should I have to wait for my FC to drop to 5 or below....the ladies are sensitive..

I am considering converting my fresh water pool to a salt water pool...One thing I am concerned about is corrosion of metal parts...I have a heater that heats the water in our jacuzzi as well as the pool..... A check valve installed on the inlet line to the heater is supposed to prevent salt...

last evening I tested for CC and found it to be nearly zero.....my FC level is about 15 or so....with my CYA at 50-60 how long should it take in this 100 degree heat and direct sunlight for my FC to reach 5 or below...I am currently not adding any Chlorine.... and at what level of FC is it safe...

I will measure my CC tonight when I get home and report back

the reason I know I have a high CC is because i started getting a dark yellow / orange reading on the OTO test (TC) and I had not added any additional chlorine other than what my feeder with tabs was providing on a setting of about 1.25 for week after week.

I poured in 250 oz. of 6% liquid chlorine. waited 1 hr and tested and found TC color to be dark yellow/orange. I poured in another 250 oz. of chlorine and waited another hour. TC color was orange....this told me that I still had a lot of CC. At that point I stopped. I let the pump run...

ok here is the latest. Last evening I added 250 oz. of 6% liquid chlorine to the strainer basket nearest the pump. I waited one hour and checked the TC level and found it to be a darker yellow/orange. I added another 250 oz. of liquid chlorine and again waited another hour. I checked it...

so if I check it every hour then what you are saying is that I will notice it clear up (get rid of the CCs) within an hour's period of time after enough re-dose appliations have been done....

ok I think I've got it thanks to all of your help.....one last question...how do I add the liquid chlorine to the pool water and do I add it once only or will I have to repeat - i guess that depends on whether my CC drops to .5 or below...after the first application...

Where or how did you get an FC shock level of 16 ppm? You say "it gives me a FC shock level of 16 ppm but not sure how it gives you that number......Did you add FC(3)+CC(13) = TC of 16? and use that in the pool calculator for "TARGET" and use 3 for "NOW" to get 235 oz? Could you send me a...

or walk me thru on how I would use the pool calculator to determine the no. of gallons to put in... thanks again

But the pool calculator does not have an entry for CC just FC so how do I use to to determine how many gallons of chlorine to put in - I need to learn this ... could you give me the numbers entries are FC - so mine is say 3 PH - mine is 7.5 TA - mine is 100 CH - mine is 250 CYA - mine is 50...

CC looks like it is around 13 ppm so 3 for the FC and 10 for the CC. But for future reference how do I know how many lbs of shock to use based on these numbers?

I am using my TF-100 test kit that tests FAS/DPD. I use my Taylor BASIC kit to test for TC . My CYA is 50. If shocking is my problem then how do I know how much shock treatment to use....what are the guidelines.... Thanks again so much!

I tested my FC and found it to be 3 but my Total Chlorine is high meaning my Combined Chlorine is high? I used my Basic Kit for a Total Chlorine reading and found it to be dark yellow. I also noticed the "chlorine smell" a few nights before... I figure my Combined Chlorine is the culpret so...

turned the heater on this morning......went out to get some more stainless steel screws....one screw was bent....replaced with the next larger screw (from a #6 to a #8)... the other screw well even bumping up the size from a #6 to a #8 it still was stripped out so I put in a plastic...