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Ok...got the Ph back to a stable 7.8. The TA ended up right where it was before @ 40 with 0.5 ppm bromine. The conclusion, if I want my Ph below 8.2 I need my TA around 40. Not sure why it's being such a pain..but just the way it's going. I'm sure the Ph will rise a bit over the next...

Drained and refilled spa. TA 120 , Ph went from 7.2 to 8.2+ in 20 minutes of running jets. I'm back where I started.

Using a normal Taylor DPD test the Free is reading 6 and the combined 10. So I guess that would make the total 16 ? Glad I don't use the spa in the summer :) So the question is then could that be causing my Ph reading to go way up, if so this would explain why I'm fighting a loosing battle...

I was trying to get the Ph down as I find it will rise on it's own very fast. At the moment I don't even use the spa as we can't keep the water temp below 106. Nothing like going from 110 deg outside temp in to a 106 deg spa. I've never shocked the spa, I've run sanitizer and such through...

Thanks, I tested the spa this morning and the Ph was ~7.9. I opted to try and drop that a bit with muriatic acid. This worked however my TA went to 30. So I said..ok fine. The tap water is 120 TA. I drained off about 75 gallons or so and replaced it with tap, ran the jets for about 10...

So from what I've read having a lower TA can cause the ph to swing a bit more? That being said I just need to watch out for any low swings? Will the aeration tend to always increase the ph instead of it falling lower ? Is there a TA for my spa that might be considered too low ? Thanks, Rabbit

Ahhh, thank you! The TA from my tap water is 120. This explains all of my drama with my spa and why I've had to change the water almost monthly if I'm planing on using it. So the question is what are the drawbacks to having a TA of 50 in a fiberglass spa ?

Ok, so having figured out so much about my pool thanks to this forum, I decided to see if my spa was ok. I normally just drain the water in the thing any time I feel it's becoming a problem. My normal routine from that point would be to just toss a bunch of bromine tabs in the filter...

Just an observation I have made. I'm now getting a ton of crystal (looks like salt) forming on the float sections of my floats. I have no such crystals at all on the actual valve area. Now if I was still running with my reduced inlet flow the water level in the tank would have gone down as...

Now, if we can just figure out how to make more of these sink to the bottom and stay put we would in effect be removing calcium from the pool water and adding a bit less salt. I think that's something Hasa claims the LQ can do. My CH is 400, so any less is a plus. It was up to 760 at one...

Thanks, I posted a pic of the modified float. I think most people can figure out what I did based on the picture. I'll be posting more once I find a better flow meter. I think something with glass might do the best, the price of them is a bit prohibitive however. Still looking.

Thanks, I'll post some floats pics in a couple minutes. As to the size of the WS particles, I figure the chemical already exists in the pool. The chemical reaction going on in the LQ is just causing it to group and clump. I would be more worried about it collecting on the filters then...

I think you would be amazed at the difference. One of the first things I did to the floats which I have not mentioned was to put four holes in the main body of the hinge holder. Two on the top (or bottom in the case of the outlet) and one on each side. I just used a sharp exacto blade as I...

As far as I can tell I've solved both problems. The flow is impacted by the "white stuff". My increase in line hose diameter means my LQ will be able to eat much more fatty foods and not die of clogged arteries. Here is a bunch of flow meters I just found, they will measure in just about...

Not sure why everyone is making such a fuss over the white stuff in the tubing. I stated in another post that I use to fill my fish tank with the exact same kind and size of vinyl line that came with the LQ. It turned completely white within 150 gallons going through it straight from the tap...

OK, well I figured I have spread this concept all over many threads and should probably put something together to explain things a bit. First off, some history. My Liquidator with it's 1/4 inch inner diameter line (ID) was not able to fill fast enough to get me much past a flow rate of "2"...

Or just use larger line to the LQ to decrease the pressure drop and increase the flow :)

So the question is, how is taking 70-80 ppm chlorine injected in to a pipe from the LQ that much different from taking 70-80 ppm chlorine flowing from an SWG. The dilution rate would appear to be about the same. Granted the SWG might have higher levels for a millisecond or so vs the LQ or...

I'm actually noticing some calcium buildup on the plaster as well, below the waterline. It was a process that started before we purchased the house. It's now become my problem.

I figure it has to be of some benefit injecting 70+ ppm chlorine in to my main pump inlet pipe compared to say dumping in bleach once a day and having it sit in the sun in a much more diluted state. In my case I'm even using all black 3/8 inch ID line from the LQ, so the sun is not even...

The one I suggest to replace the LQ one you can take apart. The one that came with it...no such luck. I tried :)

Well, logic tells me it should drain back. There are always exceptions however where the water pressures in various components might cause sort of a vapor (or in this case water) lock that prevents the reverse flow because of pressure differentials. Bottom line, keep an eye on it...

I'm no expert on this in any stretch. That being said I found it logical that the 70+ (I measured the top of my LQ) ppm chlorine concentration w/ 10% bleach or much higher with 12.5% hitting a 2 inch pipe in my case would result in the water in the small area of pipe getting fairly well...

Not sure if this is the right place to post this question or not. I'm having some problems with calcium scale and staining from the dirty calcium. Has anyone found a good solution to slowly reduce these scales short of an acid bath ? FC 5.0 PH 7.5 CYA 58 TA 115 CH 400 Thanks for any...

If the water level of your pool is above the LQ, then in theory the water from the pool is going to drain down in to the outlet of the LQ and overflow the tank. The inlet side shuts off when the tank gets too full, the outlet side turns on when the tank is full enough. So in the case of an...

I suspect you may have a defective one. It works with or without it, you just get a bit more flow without it. Based on all the other work you've done I doubt you installed it backwards :)

The air bubbles I get come from inside the LQ itself. Bubbles kind of cling to the sides and are sucked up once in a while. It's not a problem, well other then getting in the flow meter.

Try to swap your check valves, it may be that you have a bad one. It appears you have a nice setup. Love the way you connected the suction line. The direction of the control valve won't have any impact of any significance on the flow rates. The instruction on the side hanging off shows...

The next thing I'm going to find a replacement for is that flow meter. It's ok..works better then nothing. But...if it has any amount of air in it at all it becomes inaccurate. I actually tip mine so the air goes out and then adjust the flow. If I don't it will show say a "3" when it's...

I'm pretty close now to having all my lines, valves and such all 3/8 inch instead of the 1/4 inch ID that comes with the unit. This should greatly improve the White stuff situation as the passageways are not so tiny. I was kind of regretting mine for a few days, but now I love it. I've not...