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Thanks! I'll just force the threads on the screen piece over the riser tube (really tight fit).

The o-ring here, slides into bulkhead. The o-ring could go at the right end. Either way it gets compressed. But there is text down in the hole where the o-ring ring would go if this picture isn't correct.

Replacing my DE48 with CC320, just came in. Question about the small screen thing at center of cartridge manifold. It has female threads, but it's just sitting on top of the PVC tube up the middle. Should these be connected? The union o-ring rings were separate, I assume they go in the wide...

Curious, did Aiper send a shipping notice or did the S1 just show up? They received my Seagull on the 25th and I have heard nothing. I've emailed asking for status.

Most of the Jandy ports I can save with a coupler, or 2.5" to 2" reducer. But I may try the heat thing with one I need to use the reducer on. Most of the pipe is painted with white paint. At least 6 stubs need to be sanded to remove the paint. Even if there's a bit left, I'm guessing the...

Is there a quick way to determine if you've sanded all the white paint off white PVC? Don't want to want too much, or not enough.

I just ordered the Pentair 320' cartridge filter. I have their DE 48 and notice the tank lid appears to be the same as the CCP 420. Curious, if 3 years from now when I need to buy a new get of cartridges, can the larger ones be used with the taller lid? ie: is it worth saving the old lid? My...

Yeah, that's one of the reasons for replumbing. Moving SWG from into, to out of, the heater. Changing from DE to cartridge. Changing ball valves into pump to 3-way.

Thanks. Not all easy to get at with anything other than a hack saw. I think a hose clamp (or 2) should get it very close. Easy to sand/file to the clamp if there's a slight "lump". The most time consuming part is sanding off the paint. Both Jandys are moving. Correcting several "issues". Is...

Yeah, I've been running my Aquabot a couple times. I sure like its filters better! Gets dead algae & pollen. Nice to hear someone got theirs. Did they notify you that it shipped?

I have one of those chop saws. I'm a little afraid with 18 year old pipes in Texas that might crack the PVC, then I'm screwed (trying to save 2 Jandy valves, and pipes into the ground). I plan on using it on new cuts. Love the ss clamp idea, I happen to have a bunch of those.

I will be replumbing for a new cartridge filter and moving my SWG soon and have a few questions. 1. Best way to saw a square end on existing pipes? (Hacksaw?) 2. How to remove white paint? Is 180g sandpaper fine enough? 3. Can fitting be dry fit and come apart? (I have a couple 45's that...

Well, I had to add larger treads on the Seagull to keep it from getting stuck on my drains (which I removed before shipping back). If the S1 doesn't get stuck, I'll be happy. I really hate the knob on the Seagull. Just hoping the S1 lasts. It weights 5# less, so that's a plus (maybe)!

I have yet to buy the filter. I was going to keep my DE for another year, but since I'm redoing plumbing, might as well convert now. Decided the 425 is worth getting over the 325. The Waterway is $400 less than a smaller Pentair, worth the risk IMO. Just checking to see how these are working...

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Yes I have 2 Jandy 3-way for bypass. Going to reuse one and bought a Pentair 3-way. Decided 2 90's and one 45 for the offset will work. Ordered fittings today from PVCfittings (much cheaper than HD). Main reason is my heater is 10 years old and if I need to replaced it, I need to add a couple...

I'm getting ready to redo my plumbing to move my SWG from before to after my heater. I've got most figured out, but need to connect a valve (opening facing down), to the heater ( opening facing out). Heater opening about 36" left of valve opening, which sites about 8" back. Do I use 3 90's...

It's now at FedEx, got prepaid shipper within 24 hours. Will be interesting to see what we get. If it lasts another 2 years I'll be happy. I forgot how much I hated a cord with my old Aquabot running. Betta keeps getting stuck.

https://aiper.com/us/seagullpro-recall

So you don't recommend just changing to a brass nipple? Just ordered one from Amazon so I'll have it. I guess depends how corroded the brass threads are after 14 years.

I cut off the insulation. Looks like it's just one steel nipple, why would anyone do this, all other parts brass or PVC. Good thing there's a union.

I love my Seagull Pro ($529 at Aiper). S1 is $559 new. Not sure which is the better deal. I'm on 3rd season, so far all good.

"Disassemble the line" could be an issue since this is 14 years like this. I'm guessing I'll need a new spigot since the cast iron is probably an integral part of it now. Plumber time... but I'll probably wait for it to leak. Seems complicated just for fill water.

I believe everything is brass except a coupling between the spigot and the first shut-off, and possibly the T. It's been a couple years since I wrapped it. I think I'll leave it alone, who knows how corroded shut it could be with hard water.

This is my auto-fill plumbing, seems to work, but are all the valves really necessary? Thinking an anti siphon is all that's needed. Thinking of replumbing because there's a cast iron fitting off the spigot; everytime water starts, some rust enters the pool. Also, is there an inline filter I...

I find a mass of goo either way. I just rinse each grid at a different spot in the yard. The fiber just disappears after hosing it down a little. The DE is much heavier. Either way is good.