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Cloud Supply is wholesale only, just like SCP/Superior Pool Products. Based on where in the Phoenix area the OP is, they should be able to find a close by pool store/retailer.

You can manage your pool however you choose. We know the PS results are unreliable and unrepeatable - been proven here 10's of thousands of times. If you don't have a reliable CYA number from your own kit, you're just guessing at the CYA and your can't reliably maintain the FC/CYA relationship...

Check if there is a HASA retail dealer near you. https://hasa.com/dealer-locator/ Additionally, check at pool stores local to you.

If she's like my wife, it won't be the first time.... or the last. :laughblue: You could make a day trip or weekend out of it - a "special" getaway for her. :kim: YES!! That's the one pool stores get wrong most often.

What were the test results from one of the recommended test kits from before starting the ?

How close to the US border are you? You can have a TF-Pro test kit shipped to a US mail drop, and drive over to retrieve it.

Welcome to TFP! :wave: My question is why didn't the building inspector already inspect the gas line install, before any of it was buried? What else on your pool build was not inspected by the city inspector? Most building permits have areas for the building inspector to sign off as the build...

https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Draining#No_Drain_Water_Exchange You really need your own test kit.

Do an to determine if you need to do the again. When you say "both SLAMs were 72 hours", did you just SLAM for 72 hours and call it good or did you pass all 3 SLAM exit criteria and keep SLAM level FC for an additional 72 hours before letting FC drop to normal target levels for your CYA...

The center tube with the laterals just sits there. It doesn't attach to anything at the bottom. Be sure to carefully check the laterals for any damage prior to adding the new sand. Cover the opening in the center tube to prevent sand getting in as you add the sand to the filter. Before adding...

Chances are you won't see much if any appreciable benefit. Don't focus too much on 'ideal'.

If you can rule out suction side leaks in the above ground plumbing, your best bang for the buck may be to add a heater bypass. This would allow running the pump at a lower rpm which still satisfying the SWG flow switch - and save some on electricity as well.

No worries - we've all done it at least once. I was posting as you were editing.

Maybe get a metals test at your local pool store. If you maintain the pool to TFP recommended levels, you should never need to do the . Keep FC near or just above high end of target range for your CYA. Post a full set of current test results to PoolMath is already linked to your forum...

Switching to 45's or sweep 90's won't make an appreciable difference in flow or efficiency - given the low pressures in pool plumbing. If all your underground plumbing is less than 2", changing the above ground plumbing to 2" may make a very slight difference. Post a few pics of your present...

Nice job! It appears you have a few gallons of muriatic acid stored along side your chlorine and other chemicals. Acid needs to be stored away from chlorine and other chemicals and any metal - preferably in a secure and well ventilated container. Also, the fertilizer needs to be stored in a...

Based on your signature, it appears you have the equivalent of a Taylor K-2006 or K-2006 Salt (if you have the salt testing reagents as well). It would be safe to enter that kit into your signature. How old are your reagents? Be sure to watch the forums and your email in March for the complete...

If the skimmer basket has a hole in it, replace the skimmer basket. A skimmer basket with a hole is allowing leves and other debris pass thruto the pump basket. Use hair nets (about$10 per 100 on Amazon) in the skimmer basket to catch the bulk of the leaves and smaller debris. Chances are if...

Let's start with a full set of current test results from one of the recommended test kits. Don't waste you time posting pool store test results or their recommendations. FC CC pH TA CH CYA Salt Water temperature Also, fill out your signature with pool, all pool equipment (include...

Was the pump running at least 30 minutes prior to testing? If so, what rpm?

Post a full set of test results from one of the recommended test kits. We need reliable test results before we can advise.

What make and model automation do you have? Post a few pics of the pool - especially showing the area between the pool and spa. If the pool and spa are on the same level, is there an equalizer pipe between the 2 bodies of water?

Your CYA of "35" rounds up to 40. Use a CYA of 40 to determine FC requirements according to the chart

The diverter valve in the skimmer pretty much guarantees the main drain is plumbed thru the skimmer. Many builders plumb the main drain this way. The diverter valve allows one to adjust how muchthe main drain works. It also has a float in it which is supposed to close off tge skimmer only if the...

In your picture... On the suction side - look at the actual labels on the pipes: - the pipe on the left (written 'skimmer') is the spa suction - the next pipe to the right is the pool skimmer (and likely the main drain is plumbed thru the skimmer) - the pipe on the right (written 'suction') is...

Raising TA will increase pH and CSI. A TA of 60 is just fine. Keeping better control of your pH will allow you to better keep CSI in range. With a SWG, keep CSI in the 0.00 to -0.30 (negative 0.30) range to minimize scaling in the SWG. In , you can play around with changing only the pH number...

Well, that's an interesting plumbing setup. Not sure if that one way (regardless of which filter is active) pipe is long enough to accommodate the SWG flow switch and cell horizontally, but you can always do a vertical install in that pipe run. As long as that run is after both filters and the...

Post a few pics of your equipment pad from a few different angles so we can see what you're working with. Label the pipes to make it easier to see the flow in the pics. As for the flow switch - water can only flow thru it in one direction to activate the switch. Additionally, the flow switch...

Try the spigot in the front yard near where your water shutoff is - or from near where the autofill is connected. We need to know the CH, TA and pH of the untreated water. Serious try to plumb soft water to the autofill to all but eliminate CH rise after the initial fill using hard water.

Your biggest issue will probably be CH rising. Do you have a whole house water softener that can be plumbed to your autofill? What the CH, TA and pH of your fill water? No water softener plumbed to the autofill and high CH fill water, you will probably need to drain every 2-3years. With a...