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I suppose you could be testing incorrectly as well. It would be virtually impossible for the chlorine percentage to be any higher than it stated there’s ways to test it. It’s almost a certainty that it’s what it says it is or slightly less. You aren’t using the 25 mL water sample by mistake are...

If you are overshooting then the chlorine percentage is too low or your pool volume is too big.

This is true, just need to note that when the resistance is already very small, 40% of “very small” is still pretty close to very small.

Just make sure to keep adding drops until the color stops getting more red.

You don’t need a bottom drain, but I would do something to keep ground water away.

Ah. I just redid my plumbing to add some length in front of the pump and I find the bubbles are not as prolific, but maybe a coincidence.

Jandy has it for both intake and output. Maybe they’re unique?

I’m going to guess that there won’t be a measurable difference before and after but that’s just a guess. Also: Generally the pump manufacturers recommend the inlet and outlet pipes be strait for at least 4x the diameter of the pipe. Looks like your pressure side pipe is lots shorter.

Check your light and any other fixtures that are underwater and make sure none got damaged in the process. Ask me how I know to check now.

I have a 1.6hp motor and it works just fine with 1.5” piping. Smaller motor would have an easier time.

If the water level stopped at half full then it’s likely the leak is right at or just above the water level. Might have a close look there before spending any money.

It could totally be my confusion about those two.

Are you sure they’re chipping out all of the old plaster for that price? Seems like really good deal if so. Generally chlorine is not supposed to be added for at least a few days after plaster install. You might get instructions in writing from the quartz supplier.

If the CC is really 2.0 that would be an even bigger pointer to the issue. I don’t know all the details of why the electronic devices aren’t reliable but it’s been the case with people coming here wondering why there’s a problem even though their testing with “XYZ electronic device” says...

Are you sure it’s pollen? Whatever it’s, it’s not gonna filter well like that. Big particles should be caught at the top of the sand layers while finer stuff can make it through lower. Has floc or clarifiers gone through the filter and how often was it backwashed?

I think I’d just send them a picture of the dirty floor (and the bricks) with a note that says “it looks like they forgot to vacuum the floor, are they coming back to do that today?”

The FC getting down to 0.8ppm while you are in the tub would be something to look at. But that’s only if we believe the poollab results can be trusted. Note that We don’t really trust them.

You should test the water yourself and start the SLAM process ASAP. The filter will do nothing except catch dead algae that you create while doing the SLAM. It’s the chlorine that kills algae.

If algae comes back then the SLAM was ended early or the FC is allowed to get too low after it’s done. Logging all test results would help track down what’s happening.

It doesn’t work like that. If your concern is energy savings, you’de do well to switch to a variable speed pump and run it as slow as possible. You’de probably be able to run it 24x7 at slow speed for less money than you do now, (unless you only run it 2 hours per day) If you only want to run...

Really not possible to diagnose without more information. How old is it? What does it do (or not do) when you try turning it on? Realistically if it’s over 15 years old, a new one is probably better money spent than repairing.

In addition to above, when the FAS-DPD drops and the sample turns clear, stop the test and record the results. If you wait a bit, the sample may turn pink again and if you add more drops, it’ll lead to falsely high FC test result.

Ah, ok not so bad. Check with the drip test just to be sure.

Don’t trust whatever gave you 1460ppm for salt. Get the Taylor salt test kit if you don’t have one.

You’ve discovered that test strips are pretty useless for pool/spa water testing. Would recommend you get one of the Taylor kits recommended by TFP.

I may try and do something like that

The sequestering agent is only used if you ARE keeping the water. I’d circulate for however long the stain kit thing says to.

7 cups doesn’t sound like a lot comparing to what mine lost.

My pad fence and downspout drainage line wants to run right where that pipe is coming out of the ground that’s not in the concrete. The thought was to reroute that up with the rest of the plumbing so the fence could run straight through (along with that downspout drainage pipe) but it’s 80°...

I’m redoing some drainage and a fence, which may require moving this stray waterfall return pipe (left of image) and I was considering cutting away the concrete that the builder embedded the rest of the plumbing. But I see this bond wire running into the slab. Is bonding that common? I may...