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Kinda looks like the deck was a renovation to add stone coping and they just mortared/grouted the face above the tile and below the coping stone. There’s a horizontal crack running left in picture right above the tile where that chunk came from.

More grout. But you’ll probably be patching it again in the future because of the lack of expansion joint.

Teflon tape is only used for tapered pipe threads. If the fitting has an oring seal then using tape is not going to do anything except stress the clamp ring and break it. Someone in an other thread mentioned the core-55 (I think) not sealing well as a design flaw.

Also make sure you’re mixing the 50ppm standard with your reagent in the kit. The standard is not pre-mixed and so it needs the reagent to react wjth.

Try posting a picture here of the test sample.

Unfortunately, The photometer is going to do that to you. If the FC isn’t staying up, then it’s being used up fighting algae even though you can’t see it yet. You can’t do the SLAM process without the more reliable kit.

A well should be contributing zero copper to your pool water. If it is, it’s contaminated and shouldn’t be used anymore. If u you oh haven’t been adding algaecides, Clorox chlorine, or using mineral systems, then more than likely Leslie’s test is wrong.

You’re system. Haven’t heard of units failing an hour after installing (replacement or not) I just meant what was latest failure. I’d have to think they’ll resolve whatever broke.

That one was just bad. What part failed an hour later?

I use a “pool leaf rake” and it works well but is time consuming. Walmart has them. You’ll have to blindly scoop.

I edited my post with a couple more questions. You need to clean the filter and then note the pressure when it’s clean. Then clean it again whenever the pressure rises by 25% more than the “clean” pressure. 1.5psi sounds pretty low. Might want to check that water isn’t bypassing the filter.

Keep going. It’s only been 5 days (on your logs). How’s the filter pressure? Might try cleaning and brushing more than once per day if possible. If the pool has been closed for long (2 years ?) and you can’t see the bottom, are you sure there isn’t a pile of junk (rotting vegetation) at the...

There’s a watertight gasket on that and so if the gasket is working, it’s hard to imagine how that thing would not float.

Welcome, heaters seem to die more frequently from acidic water getting to them and causing corrosion. Sometimes that’s from a puck feeder back flowing into it, (pr leaving pucks to dissolve in a skimmer). What salt system do you have now and how are you testing the water? What heater model is...

Usually those lights are supposed to float…so you don’t have to get in the water. Model number would help.

Make sure you are using liquid chlorine and not powdered “shock” as before.

It should last a lot longer than that if you follow the recommendation of getting one rated for at least twice the size of your pool.

It’ll be fine just keep brushing and cleaning debris out

Saltwater chlorine generator won’t work when the water is 55-ish or below but also algae doesn’t grow very fast at that temperature either and so the green water may have just been an algae bloom starting because it’s warmer. Do the overnight chlorine loss test to find out if you need to slam or...

Any metal will rust eventually if it gets wet (salt or no salt). The coatings just slow the process down a bit.

If you’re only gone for a week at a time, you can shut the pump off and use a chlorine floater. They also make Wi-Fi timer devices for a hose Bibb. You can turn on/off the water remotely.

Hand mixing plaster? For a small repair maybe ok, but depends on what hand mixing actually means. Big jobs use a large machine (ie cement mixer) or at least a very large handheld mixing drill type device.

For a short time if your calcium is is low, but if it gets too high, you’re in the same trouble as using the other pucks in that you’ll have to drain the water to get rid of the extra calcium before you start to get scaling and deposits all over the surfaces. Also warning! Do not put Cal hypo...

48 miles in San Jose might as well be 148 miles. The gas and time and traffic to drive 48 miles in San Jose is prohibitively expensive. 😉I know the pain. It’s cheaper to ship it.

You should be able to ship the cell to any of their facilities that offer warranty work. Not gonna be any different with Hayward or Jandy or really any other company that offers warranty for products. You just gotta ship it to them and pay a fee. Warranty does not mean free replacement like it...

FWIW, I have a Jandy whisper flow 1.6hp pump and it works fine for my 27k gallon pool. What’s nice about the variable speed pumps is that you can turn the speed down very slow and run it for much longer than the old single speeds. This makes them lots quieter, filters tends to work better, and...

Bruh, that’s done for.

The valve or spider gasket is broke.

I dunno, it looks like the water isn’t that bad and just lots of debris on the floor. Not much worse than mine was a few weeks ago. I just ran the vacuum over and over and netted as much as I could off the floor. Totally up to you on how to do it.

And you’re measuring the spa water not the pool water, correct? I’m gonna guess the spa is smaller than 2500 gallons.