I'm going from a Hayward SP to Calimar VS pump and I see in the specs that there is a .2" difference in the center line of the hayward vs the Calimar. Am I looking at replumbing the whole inlet or is it possible to make it work with the existing plumbing? I've currently got 1.5" pipes so I'll need to use the appropriate unions as well. Thanks!
Hayward Superpump to Calimar install
- Thread starter ckh1980
- Start date
I replaced a Hayward 2hp super pump ll with the Calimar 3hpVS using 2-11.25 elbows ( available online) and short connecting stubs with Hi temp Unions my plumbing was existing 2". Hope this helps you. All planning credit on my project belongs to 1poolman1 and his guidance.
I appreciate that. It's hard to tell from your pic, but are the elbows for elevation change or are they lateral? Also there's probably no sense in trying to replumb the little bit of 1.5" pump a have at the pad to 2" right?
elevation, also keep in mind when using the elbows the pump position will change it orientation (left or right) both in and out plumbing will be required.
my super pump ll was at 8-3/16"
Calimar is 9.126"
1 1/2 " schedule 40- 11.25 elbows are also available on line I don't see a reason to change.
thanks. before I order, I'm guessing the easiest thing to do is to get the 2" unions and glue in a reducer to 1.5"?
yes and unions were available on the Calimar site when I purchased my pump.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,545
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Here's one option. If your valve is a 2"/2.5" diverter, use a 2.5" fitting on the outside of the socket and reduce it to 2". See the connection on the left below.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,545
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The other option is to replace the valve or use a pipe reamer to clear out the existing socket.
Cost a lota provides two great options. But, Do you have any more room to move the pump back at all (your photo doesn't show the entire pad.) Maybe provide another photo.
you'll need to put that 1-1/2 reducer in play also.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,545
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The diverter valves are designed to work with two different size pipes. If your valve is a 1.5"/ 2" you would use a 2-in fitting and reduce to 1.5".
I've got about another foot of room behind it. The piping is 1.5 wouldnt the valve also be the same ID? I don't understand the 2"-2.5" reference earlier. Here Are some better pics. Yes I know the connector is missing for the electrical. It is being addressed
I might try the reamer first. I'll have to go pick one up from Lowe'sAttachments
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,545
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I didn't realize your plumbing was 1.5 in. See my last post.
For anyone wondering, I ordered these guys to try out. should eliminate the need for a reducer to 1.5" if they work out well
So, I may have a snag. I have an intermatic mechanical timer which turns my old pump on and off along with the SWG. Do I want the SWG on all the time, but turned down to a lower power? If not, what is the best way to control it with the Calimar?
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,545
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
What kind of a timer is it? You want the pump powered 24/7 off the line-in side of the timer. Connect the SWG to the switched side of the timer. Control of the pump is done on the pump's control panel while the swg is controlled by the timer.
It's this timer:
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Thanks. that's a good idea. There is a master power switch for everything at the pad as well, so I guess it's good to have that to kill power to the pump if needed.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,545
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Great! When connected to 230v, pump would connect to Terminals 1 and 3 ("Line" power) and SWG to Terminals 2 and 4 ("LOAD" switched power). If you peek in there now, you'll probably see your pump is connected to 2 and 4 working off switched power.
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Last weekend was a little busy so I didn't get a chance to work on the pump. After reading some reviews about the pipe reamer, some people had issues, so I think I'm going to cut the pipes at the pad and install a new jandy valve to raise the valve height to be inline with the pump. There should be less joints so less places for something to go wrong. I've worked with PVC plumbing and irrigation before so I'm assuming a few couplers to extend the height from the pad glued in place is all I would need? This is the replacement valve I was looking at. Thanks.
Yep, had to raise mine also, for a Calimar 3hp., used a couple of 11.25 couplers and just wanted to show another option .