Replacement pump housing for Hayward W3SP2603VSP?

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JamesR

JamesR

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May 18, 2015
355
Nazareth/PA
Pool Size
28000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
My Hayward Variable speed pump has always had a minor leak at the 2"MPT outlet fitting. No matter what sealant I use, Teflon tape, T-2 Rector Seal, Blue Monster PVC/ABS thread sealant or any combination of them. I also replaced the 2" MPT fitting and it still leaks. Leaks at the same spot at the pump housing also no matter how loose or tight I crank the fitting. I've done 100's if not a 1000 different pipe thread joints at work over the years for heat exchangers running 150psi of hot glycol or Galden fluid and DI water. Never have I had a stubborn leak like this before. It has to be a deflective housing. So when I look up the parts diagram for the pump on a site like INyoPools and others, they show me the housing is SPX1600AA. But the description says that is a 1.5" inlet/outlet. Anyone know the correct part number for a 2" I/O housing for my pump? Not that I want to drop $300+ to fix this leak but I see no other way. I trust my plumbing connections.
 
These FRP housings can't take a lot of of over-tightening. Take a photo of the housing you are threading into then blow it up on your computer. Examine the whole thing carefully. If it's cracked very likely you can't see the crack with naked eye. Blown up just a little will reveal this. I've used this on several Jandy plastic housings. If that doesn't reveal a crack you my want to try my full-proof solution. I always had trouble mating connections that require thread sealing with plastic against metal or many of the newer plastic housings because they don't tighten enough to tightenthe stiffer brittle harder material. Pipe dope is never recommended because a lot of it contains oils or hydrocarbons that will eventually cause the plastic to fail. But there are great ptfe pipe dope compounds that are perfect for pvc. I come across this all the time with my pool equipment and well pumps piping. I always add a little pipe dope and it always seals up perfectly. When I buy pumps now I avoid pumps that seal with threads. Much prefer a gasket seal. Never needs more than hand tighten and only leaks if the sealing surfaces are dirty or the gasket needs to be replaced.

Chris
 
It was hand tightened only. Initially only T-tape. It just continued to leak. The dope I eventually used was specifically for PVC and ABS.
It doesn’t have the typical symptom of a crack. They usually leak worse the tighter you go because the female fitting splits more. This doesn’t do it. I examined that fitting inside and out with high magnifying head gear and a bright LED light. No signs of cracking. Even with the pump running at low rpm and just 2psi pressure at the filter it leaks. Like a slow bleed from your fingertip if you prick it with a pin. A little drop slowly forms after about 3 minutes of runtime and just keeps growing till it spill over the edge.
It’s very slow, but I know it’s there and it bugs the heck out of me.
 
James, thanks for the info. That o-ring type fitting may be worth a try!
As far as the initial install. I did exactly what the user manual stated. Wrap t-tape around it, tighten by hand loosely then an additional 1.5 turns. It leaked. I’ve had that fitting off and on about 15 times now with various sealing methods. Including replacing the fitting that I’m screwing into the pump. It continues to leak from the same location regardless of what I do. Must be an issue with that housing.
I have 2 options before replacing it.
1) the oring style fitting that you show, and that is definitely a clean and easy approach.
About $17 on Amazon for the 2” version.
2) using a 2 part plastic-weld epoxy on the threads instead of t-tape. I have a 2” union coupling directly above it, so a permanently sealed joint presents no maintenance issue for me.
 
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I used the new CMP union with o-ring at the pump and made a new line from there to the filter. Darn thing leaked but at a different spot. Took it apart again and noticed the witness mark from the o-ring on the pump flange from had a very thick area of contact and then on either side of that a very thin area of contact. Checked with a 6" machinist straight edge and found that the "flat surface" on the top of the pump threaded flange had a slight hump to it. Soooooo, I filed that down even and then sanded/polished it smooth again. Reassembled and now no more leak! Been running for 30 minutes now and bone dry.
I think that outlet flange is deformed and no amount of t-tape or non hardening sealant on the threads was going to fix it. An o-ring on the flat top surface was the answer.
@JamesW , thanks for the info on those fittings. (y)
 
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JamesR said:
I used the new CMP union with o-ring at the pump and made a new line from there to the filter. Darn thing leaked but at a different spot. Took it apart again and noticed the witness mark from the o-ring on the pump flange from had a very thick area of contact and then on either side of that a very thin area of contact. Checked with a 6" machinist straight edge and found that the "flat surface" on the top of the pump threaded flange had a slight hump to it. Soooooo, I filed that down even and then sanded/polished it smooth again. Reassembled and now no more leak! Been running for 30 minutes now and bone dry.
I think that outlet flange is deformed and no amount of t-tape or non hardening sealant on the threads was going to fix it. An o-ring on the flat top surface was the answer.
@JamesW , thanks for the info on those fittings. (y)
Click to expand...
Where there's a will there's a way! Great job and please do post a photo of the completed repair.
 

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