Pool chemistry advise

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J

JW Pool

New member
Apr 22, 2024
2
Delaware
Pool Size
21500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
This is the second season for my saltwater pool. The pool was opened today and the water is clear. I ran the filter for several hours and vacuumed before testing. Here are my current readings:
Temp 56 degrees
ph 10.4 (measured with new C-600 meter)
Salinity 2790 ppm
Free Chlorine 0.5 ppm
Combined Chloramines 0 ppm
Calcium hardness 300 ppm
Total Alkalinity 140 ppm
CYA 65 ppm
I have been using PoolMath since last year. My question is when making changes, what order should these values be addressed?
My chlorine generator is not generating chlorine. I was previously told it wouldn't work at temperatures below 65 degrees. I assume I will need to get some liquid chlorine to use until the water warms up.
 
Get chlorine in the pool first. Always follow this...Link-->>FC/CYA Levels
Round your CYA up to 70. Always round up to the next 10. Chlorinate for 70 CYA.
I don't trust your pH meter. When was it last calibrated?
For any pH adjustments, I would use the comparator block to test when deciding to change pH.
Do the comparator block and report that pH result.

Generally, FC is king.
The rest can handle some time.
Manage your pH and keep it 7.0 to 8.0...any place in there is fine. No need to reduce pH at 8.0, only when it gets above 8 (purplish).
Your Salinity might be a bit low, read your cell manual and add salt to get you to the mid-range of the recommendation.
Your CH, TA and CYA are just fine.
 
Thanks for your reply.
The pH meter is new and I haven't calibrated it, but the comparator block was a dark purple. I struggled with treating high pH all season(using the comparator block) last year.
Is it true that the plaster curing contributes to higher pH? The pool was new Dec 2023.
What method of measuring salinity do you prefer?
My pH meter measured salinity at 2790, my TFtest kit had 2400, my salt water generator had 3000 and test strip had 3130.
My cell manual recommends 3000-3500.
 
JW Pool said:
The pH meter is new and I haven't calibrated it, but the comparator block was a dark purple. I struggled with treating high pH all season(using the comparator block) last year.
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Yeah, I don't trust the meters, just me.
JW Pool said:
Is it true that the plaster curing contributes to higher pH? The pool was new Dec 2023.
Click to expand...
Yes, it can take 6-18 months for the pH rise to slow.
JW Pool said:
What method of measuring salinity do you prefer?
Click to expand...
tftestkits.net

TF Salt Bundle

tftestkits.net tftestkits.net
Or Taylor K-1766...they are the same.
JW Pool said:
My pH meter measured salinity at 2790, my TFtest kit had 2400, my salt water generator had 3000 and test strip had 3130.
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You have a conundrum. The salt cell will not work if the cell reports too low. It is odd that the cell reports higher than the TFtest kit. Not normal, usually the other way around. If the cell is happy and creating chlorine, you are good to go.
JW Pool said:
My cell manual recommends 3000-3500.
Click to expand...
Then keep the cell happy reporting 3250. Add enough salt to raise your salt 250ppm, so the cell reports the 3250 that is middle of range in the manual.
 
Last edited:
JW Pool said:
Thanks for your reply.
The pH meter is new and I haven't calibrated it, but the comparator block was a dark purple. I struggled with treating high pH all season(using the comparator block) last year.
Is it true that the plaster curing contributes to higher pH? The pool was new Dec 2023.
What method of measuring salinity do you prefer?
My pH meter measured salinity at 2790, my TFtest kit had 2400, my salt water generator had 3000 and test strip had 3130.
My cell manual recommends 3000-3500.
Click to expand...
You should always calibrate a new meter.
Measure Salt using K1766 test kit. Can buy it at tftest kits or on Amazon.
 
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