Back Flow Preventer Supply line pin hole leak

The problem is this pipe will always be wet as the shut off valve is before the back flow preventer, I winterize the baclflow preventer, but there is always the risk the the valve will bust or the pipe coming from the wall, I will send update pictures after the job is done. let me know if you have suggestions on how to winterize it.

I think galvanized steel can withstand more pressure and resist freezing more than Brass, that is probably why the pool coomany used it
They both will crack. As noted above, it needs to be winterized either by covering or or using a hose bibb that has a deep plunger if it that shuts the flow of water deeper in the wall so the interior heat of the house keeps is from freezing. We remove exposed fittings like that during winter or cover them with insulated covers to help avoid freezing.

Galvanized steel pipe is old technology that I’m not sure is useful anymore.
 
Probably last update as I completed the installation this morning. the pipe in the wall turned out to be only 6" and I was able to find a brass nipple at Ace hardware. I still don't understand why the pool company used galvanized steel instead of brass, the only explanation I have is to withstand lower temperatures as Brass will bust much easier than steel.

The Galvanized steel pipe was completely rusted from the inside, Brass fittings were in good condition so I reused the tee connection as I couldn't find it at any of the local stores.

total cost of the project
1/2" Brass 6" Nipple $11.99
3/4 Ball valve $15.98
3/4" Brass 1.5" Nipple $8.77
3/4" PVC Coupling $0.54
Thread Sealeant (Pipe Dope) $4.17
PVC Cement $8.88
Teflon $1.96

Total without PVC cement and thread sealent is $40.36 and with the cement and thread sealant is $56.60. I purchased a 12" adjustable wrench to help with the job, but I am not including it as I will use it a lot arounf the house. Definately beats the $649 the plumber quoted me.

I am attaching pictures of the rusted pipe, inside the wall and the project final picture
 

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I still don't understand why the pool company used galvanized steel instead of brass, the only explanation I have is to withstand lower temperatures as Brass will bust much easier than steel.

It's a lot simpler than that ... the person doing the job had no idea what they were doing and they used whatever they had on hand. You are giving them waaaay too much credit by thinking that they were concerned with burst pressures. Galvanized pipe is cheap, plentiful and comes in lots and lots of different sizes. Brass hardware and pipe is generally more expensive and less variety is available. Galvanized does still have its uses but it's better to use brass and copper for household metallic plumbing (almost everything is PEX nowadays anyway ...). The guy simply only had a 6" galvanized pipe on hand, didn't want to get into his truck to go hunt around for brass, and figured it would hold up long enough for him to get paid and for any corrosion to become someone else's problem. There is also the mistaken idea that as long as the metal pipe isn't electrically contacting the ground, then corrosion can't happen. That is obviously untrue but I've heard many plumbers state you can mix metals as long as there's no electrical contact ... even though the UPC states clearly that galvanized and copper/brass can not be in contact without special types of dielectric barriers or special brazing (I have a flex copper water line that is connected to the top of a water heater that has steel connectors ... there's a specially brazed end that transitions from copper to steel that avoids corrosion).
 
The backflow should be covered over the winter to avoid freezing. There are seals and diaphragms in it that can crack from freezing and cause leaks. Most hardware stores sell various sizes of insulating sprinkler valve covers that should do the trick. All pipes and fitting should be sealed up with foam insulation and 20mil thick PVC plumbing tape.

You can foam insulate everything up to the wall, most hardware stores have all kinds of premade foam covers for all sorts of fittings. The spigot can be covered as well.

There will be enough ambient heat from the brick wall and the house to keep the plumbing safe inside that wall unless it’s in a part of your home that isn’t conditioned (like a garage). It’s just the external pipes that need insulation. Heck, you can even just throw a heavy blanket over it all.

There are also pipe heating tapes with thermostats that you can plug into a nearby outlet. The heat tape wraps around the pipe. When the thermostat senses that the pipe is getting close to freezing, it turns on and gently heats the tape using about as much power as a household heating pad. You’re not in a particularly cold part of the country so just insulating the pipes and covering stuff up over winter should suffice in most cases. For a severe cold snap that lasts longer than a day, you can just using a contractor lamp with an incandescent light bulb to throw some heat at it.
Thank you so much for the information. I have the covers and always drain the BFP and cover it in the winter. I inlet valve burst a year ago and I was postpoing replacing it until this happened.

I will insulate all the wet pipes and fittings and keep draining the BFP and covering it and hope for the best. will consider buying the heat trace if not too expensive.
 
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Old trick I was taught. cut back the insulation in the wall about 1/2"-1", then seal around the pipe against the brick with plumbers putty.

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That would leave some of the pipes exposed outside. I would rather insulate the pipe, tee connection and valve to protect it from freezing
Two different things. Yes, insulate the pipe to protect from freezing. The plumbers putty is to keep critters out of the wall, and is easily replaceable vs. expanding foam or silicone sealant around the pipe/brick entry point..
 
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