Little brown-red type spores on hot tub jets

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datadr93

datadr93

Gold Supporter
Jun 4, 2024
201
Eastern Ohio
Pool Size
11400
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair iChlor 15
We went about 2 weeks during the sub-freezing temps not using our tub. I still consistently on weekly basis utilized the AquaClarity, maintained chemistry (twice per week), etc.

But last Friday I noticed on about 3 of the jets these brownish-red looking 'bubbles'. As soon as I touched them, they disintegrated into a fine mist and dissipated into water. They almost looked like spores of some type.

What could these have been? What is the cause? And how to prevent further?
 
Bacterial...likely...
Where do you maintain your FC and CYA?
When was the last time you purged?
Might be time to purge, and I'd look at the Aahsome purge.
 
New install Oct so I'll be hitting my 6 month mark mid April.

FC 3.5, CYA 30, pH 7.6, alk 50. Weekly AC w/slam. Performed purge on initial fill with drain/refill. Very little foaming during weekly AC.
 
Probably should have said that was my reading Monday morning. Tub was used multiple times on weekend. My level on Friday (when saw the spores) was 8.5. I turned my saltron down from 5 to 3 hours after that reading.

Weather to be in high 40s next couple days. So will plan few hours for purge/drain.
 
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Performed purge/drain. Was doing my weekly AC, when noticed most of the jets still developing this brown film. It almost appears like rust.

Appearing on the nozzles and on the tub itself near the nozzles.
 

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It's a jacuzzi so can't say 100% nozzles are stainless.

Saltron mini with supplemental chlorine 10% after bather load. Constantly maintain around 3 FC (CYA at 30) except when weekly slam.

pH kept around 7.6-7.8 with 50-60 alk.

Today's numbers:
FC 2 (then performed weekly AC and Slam)
CC 0
pH 7.8
Alk 50

Last week (check monthly)
CYA 30
Calcium 180
Salt 2200
Borates 50

Saltron at 3 hours
 

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Poolmath has my target at 3 and that's where I maintain. I had 2 person bather load night before I did my reading.
Wouldn't too high chlorine also be corrosive?

Just did another reading after slam yesterday and FC at 7.5. Two of us just used for about 45 minutes. Added 2 shots of chlorine. By Monday I anticipate around 3 which has been the norm.
 
As long as you know the bather load FC consumption you be better off putting in the water before the soak so you're not falling in danger territory. You wouldn't need to slam if the FC was maintained at high target. The poolmath recommendation is more for pools but tubs are a small body of water and will flip on you very fast.
 
I'm completely lost now. I was running previously at 6-7 and told that is way too high for my CYA level. Plus it would cause corrosion issues.

Was also instructed to add chlorine after bather load which has become an automatic task that I estimate on number of people and time in tub.

So do I keep chlorine high or keep it low? Do I turn up the Saltron after being told previously not to run too many hours? Will high or low chlorine accelerate corrosion (which I was also told was more result of too low pH).

Do I add more CYA (even though suggested maintain at 30) to balance with higher chlorine?

I've got completely conflicting info.
 
You want to be sure the even during a soak you don't dip below minimum target so by adding before it just helps stay above the danger zone. With CYA of 30 you're good till 12 FC which is slam level.
 
All the marks cleaned up rather easily with a baking soda paste.
I removed panel and inspected heater (info this every 2 months) and noticed rust flakes forming on the heater contacts. This also cleaned up easily with the baking soda paste. I also applied di-electric rust preventative lube to contacts.

What could be causing this rust that hasn't occured in last 5 months? I'm hesitant to contact service center since I'm using a Saltron which would void warranty.

Many folks have said should have no issues with the SWG so long as maintain proper balance and don't let pH get too low.
 
Salt water generators have cause widespread corrosion to escutcheon plates, handrails and ladders in swimming pools. Newer built pools have special accessories now that do not oxidize or corrode from the salt systems. I do not think that the Saltron is causing the reddish spots on your jet closure plates. The spotting could be from iron degradation or alloys in your heating element. That would be where I would investigate.
 
I'll be starting pool soft opening this weekend. I may as well redrain hot tub so I can inspect the heating element.

This only recently started in the last few weeks with nothing different being done to the routine maintenance and/or tub chemistry. I can't think of one time the pH was below 7.2 for any extended period of time. Mostly dropped when alkalinity started to creep above 60 and I added 0.x ounces of MA per PoolMath... but few days later always back at 7.8.

If due to cheap material in the heating element, would a titanium element fit the bill for replacement?
 
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While waiting for any replies, I pulled the info on the hot tub heater:
Balboa 58104 heater, 4.0 kw 800 M7 stud.

If I'm understanding the 800 means it is composed of nickel-iron-chromium alloy... and doesn't appear it's a very high-end unit/element.

I did find this replacement... Hydro-Quip titanium element 6-Flo, 4.0 kw, 230v, 10" Immersion w Balboa M7 Swoop... $39.00. The cost is negligible if I can fix something early to prevent issues later.
www.superiorpoolandspa-service.com

TITANIUM HEATER ELEMENT 6-FLO 4.0kW 120v/230v, 10" Immersion w Balboa M7 Swoop — SUPERIOR POOL AND SPAS

Hydro-Quip Heater Element 6-FLO HYDRO-QUIP Heater Element, Flo-Thru, Double Bend, M7, 4.0kW, 230V, 10" Immersion w/Swoop Hydro-Quip Heater Element 6-FLO The smart choice Replacement heating element for 15" stainless steel manifolds, including Balboa, Gecko, Hydro Quip and many ot
www.superiorpoolandspa-service.com www.superiorpoolandspa-service.com
 
So I wrote to Pool City (which is where I purchased hot tub)... they told me to check chemistry and I provided the following data:
Current chemistry as of this morning (checked at least twice weekly or more frequently if heavy bather load):
FC = 5.5 (was slammed over weekend to 12); use dichlor up to 30ppm CYA then switch to chlorine 10%
CC = 0
CYA = 30
pH = 7.8
Alk = 50
Borates = 50
Calcium = 180
Water Temp = 103

Here is the response:
So it looks like your alkalinity is too low and your ph is on the higher end. Your chlorine level is also too high and should be lowered to 1-2. Increasing your CYA to 70 would help. I suggest taking a water sample into your local pool city and they would be able to help you out and provide you the appropriate chemical balancers to assist in your hot tub care.

And if understanding, they would like me to increase the alkalinity and decrease the pH... probably by using a bunch of their bull$%&# chemicals to F around with my water. How do you further increase alkalinity and subsequently decrease pH? And isn't low pH a cause of corrosion? Granted, my FC is normally around 3 (and forum opinion is to increase slightly higher which I did) but I think they lost all credibility when stating to increase the CYA to maintain a lower FC...
 
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