Moved House - Now Have A Pool

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SteveSwims

Well-known member
Jul 5, 2024
119
United Kingdom
Hi all

First time pool owner in the U.K. here.

Moved house in May this year and inherited what I believe is a roughly 10000 gallon in ground vinyl pool in the garden (within its own glass/brick building).

Having never been a pool owner before I’m trying to learn fast (I’m reading pool school and watching as many you tube videos as I can)!

The previous owner maintained the pool using Triclor tabs placed into an Aqua Genie skimmer/feeder cartridge.

However, before I had my own test kit, I took a water sample to my local pool store and they advised the pool had no chlorine left at all.

They sold me a bunch of 1 inch triclor tablets, along with some stabilised chlorine granules (which they said I should add straight away to give an initial chlorine boost to get going) and a small cheap reagent test kit.

I went home and added the amount of granules they advised and also put 8 tabs into the aqua genie deeded (again as they recommended)

However, after a day or so (using the test kit I bought from them) I was still seemingly showing no/very low FC.

I didn’t like the test kit they sold me (as was an colour matching type for all readings so was too subjective) and so I bought a Taylor K2006 which seems much more cut and dry but I’m still seeing a virtually zero FC reading.

I’ve now found this site and I really like the philosophy here and want to move to Liquid Chlorine for a number of reasons, so was just hoping someone might be able to take a look at my current test results to give me in indicator on where to focus first.

Fc 0.4

Cc 0.2

Ph 7.0

TA 150

CH 750

CYA no reading (water did not go cloudy in tube and could see the black dot even when full) so I assume either 0 or below 20

I think PH needs to come up and TA maybe needs to come down a little.

I also know I need CYA before getting started with liquid bleach but not sure what order to approach it all.

I know this is probably one of thousands of similar new member posts but hopefully someone get point me in the right direction!

Thanks in advance!
 

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Welcome to TFP!!!

First, nice pool.

CYA: I would add 20ppm of Chlorine stabilizer. 20 is a good balance for an indoor pool, at least to start. Get dry granulated stabilizer, put it in a sock, tie it off and hang from a pole at least 6" out from a return, and let it dissolve.

When the sock hits the water, add enough liquid chlorine to raise your FC to 4ppm. Download pool math, configure your pool and use it to figure out how much chlorine to add to get to 4ppm. Link-->
PoolMath

On the FC test, use a 10mL sample for the test. Every drop is .5FC. This is plenty accurate, and will save reagent.

TA and pH. Ignore the TA. The only issue that high TA presents is rising pH. Leave the pH alone, it will rise on its own. When it gets to 8.0, lower pH to 7.6 or so, with muriatic acid. Lowering pH also lowers TA. If you manage your pH, TA will come down over time.

Your CH is high. It would be worth testing your source water for CH. When you get pool math, use the same login as TFP, enable temperature and CSI tracking. Also enable sharing logs with TFP. The only risk of high CH is scaling on the liner. CSI should give us a sense of the risk.

Note on indoor pools: If you don't use any CYA at all, and use an FC level of 2-3 ppm, then compared to the 4 ppm FC with 20 ppm CYA that we recommend, you've got 10-20 times as much active chlorine (hypochlorous acid) in the pool which will oxidize swimsuits, skin and hair up to 10-20 times faster and also likely produce about 10-20 times as much irritating and volatile nitrogen trichloride. The downside to the lower active chlorine level, with CYA 20, is that it takes longer to oxidize bather waste and when there is no UV in sunlight to help you it's possible to build up more CC, at least temporarily. Indoor pools are a challenge and often need supplemental oxidation (UV or ozone) unless the bather loads are very light and this is true even when no CYA is used. 20 CYA is a good compromise.
 
PoolStored said:
Welcome to TFP!!!

First, nice pool.

CYA: I would add 20ppm of Chlorine stabilizer. 20 is a good balance for an indoor pool, at least to start. Get dry granulated stabilizer, put it in a sock, tie it off and hang from a pole at least 6" out from a return, and let it dissolve.

When the sock hits the water, add enough liquid chlorine to raise your FC to 4ppm. Download pool math, configure your pool and use it to figure out how much chlorine to add to get to 4ppm. Link-->
PoolMath

On the FC test, use a 10mL sample for the test. Every drop is .5FC. This is plenty accurate, and will save reagent.

TA and pH. Ignore the TA. The only issue that high TA presents is rising pH. Leave the pH alone, it will rise on its own. When it gets to 8.0, lower pH to 7.6 or so, with muriatic acid. Lowering pH also lowers TA. If you manage your pH, TA will come down over time.

Your CH is high. It would be worth testing your source water for CH. When you get pool math, use the same login as TFP, enable temperature and CSI tracking. Also enable sharing logs with TFP. The only risk of high CH is scaling on the liner. CSI should give us a sense of the risk.

Note on indoor pools: If you don't use any CYA at all, and use an FC level of 2-3 ppm, then compared to the 4 ppm FC with 20 ppm CYA that we recommend, you've got 10-20 times as much active chlorine (hypochlorous acid) in the pool which will oxidize swimsuits, skin and hair up to 10-20 times faster and also likely produce about 10-20 times as much irritating and volatile nitrogen trichloride. The downside to the lower active chlorine level, with CYA 20, is that it takes longer to oxidize bather waste and when there is no UV in sunlight to help you it's possible to build up more CC, at least temporarily. Indoor pools are a challenge and often need supplemental oxidation (UV or ozone) unless the bather loads are very light and this is true even when no CYA is used. 20 CYA is a good compromise.
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Hi PoolStored

Thanks so much for the welcome and pointers!

I should add that my test results are correct assuming I’ve performed the tests accurately (still learning g there also!).

Just to clarify (in case it makes a difference), technically the pool is indoors but the roof and half of the walls are actually glass/clear plastic panels (it’s kind of like a greenhouse/conservatory around the pool). I’ve attached an exterior image in case it helps. Not sure if that changes anything in what you’ve recommended?

Assuming it doesn’t change anything, I’ve just got a couple of questions:

CYA: According to poolmath, going from 0 to 20ppm would need 1lb 15oz of dry stabiliser. Not sure if I’m using the app correctly so does that sound about right? Also, do I need to keep the pump running 24/7 until it’s dissolved or is a typical 8 hours a day ok at that point?

FC: after the initial dose of liquid chlorine to raise to 4ppm, do I immediately start with the daily testing/topping up at that point or should I not add any more until after the dry stabiliser has completely dissolved? Also, Just for my own knowledge, are you recommending 4ppm FC for my pool (rather than the usual 8 or so ppm that I’ve seen mentioned elsewhere on TFP) because the CYA level is lower than that recommended for an outdoor pool (ie where a higher CYA level is recommended, FC must be higher to still be effective)?

Testing in general: Where a test requires counting drops until a colour change takes place (for example FC/TA), should I stop adding drops as soon as any colour change takes place or should I keep adding untill the colour no longer changes at all?

Thanks again for your help!
 

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SteveSwims said:
Not sure if that changes anything in n what you’ve recommended?
Click to expand...
Nope. It just means that if you get enough UV, the CC issue will be minimal.
SteveSwims said:
CYA: According to poolmath, going from 0 to 20ppm would need 1lb 15oz of dry stabiliser. Not sure if I’m using the app correctly so does that sound about right? Also, do I need to keep the pump running 24/7 until it’s dissolved or is a typical 8 hours a day ok at that point?
Click to expand...
Sounds about right. Put it in, wait 30 minutes and start squeezing. You can get it to all dissolve in a short period of time. Pump running.
SteveSwims said:
FC: after the initial dose of liquid chlorine to raise to 4ppm, do I immediately start with the daily testing/topping up at that point or should I not add any more until after the dry stabiliser has completely dissolved? Also, Just for my own knowledge, are you recommending 4ppm FC for my pool (rather than the usual 8 or so ppm that I’ve seen mentioned elsewhere on TFP) because the CYA level is lower than that recommended for an outdoor pool (ie where a higher CYA level is recommended, FC must be higher to still be effective)?
Click to expand...
You need to follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels Keep FC in range for your CYA.
SteveSwims said:
Testing in general: Where a test requires counting drops until a colour change takes place (for example FC/TA), should I stop adding drops as soon as any colour change takes place or should I keep adding untill the colour no longer changes at all?
Click to expand...
For TA and CH add drops until the color does not change again. Subtract the last drop.

For FC, once the solution goes clear, you are done. No subtracting drops.
 
Amazing, thanks again!

I assume I can start swimming as soon as I get my FC reading showing as 4ppm (moved into the house in May and not had the confidence to get into the pool yet!)?

Need to go shopping for some Liquid Chlorine and Dry Stabiliser now then and get started!

No doubt there will be more questions to come but thanks again!
 
Sorry, another one!

Just realised the Taylor k2006 comparator block only goes as low as 30 for the CYA test.

Should I use another CYA test if I’m aiming for 20 or can I pretty much take it as read that the pool math recommended volume of Dry stabiliser will take me to a CYA of 20?
 

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jakeblat said:
Hi @SteveSwims I'm also based in the UK with a similar enclosed pool (that I recently renovated - UK Indoor Pool Refurbishment). Happy to point you towards any UK specific stuff if you have trouble finding it as options can be quite limited here.
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Hi @jakeblat

Thanks a lot! That looks like a fair bit of work you had to do!

Yeah, I’ve been finding that out so far about U.K. suppliers!, I’ve actually got a fairly long standing pool company local to me (who I think actually constructed my pool originally, around 30 years ago!) but my experience with them so far has been a bit hit and miss which make me me a little hesitant to rely on them.

If you’ve got any good U.K. suppliers for liquid chlorine or dry stabiliser then I’d appreciate any recommendations!
 
I've been using this place for liquid chlorine, normally getting 4x5 litres at a time - Liquid Chlorine ChlorForce M15 -for Swimming Pools
For dry stabiliser - 2kg Cyanuric Acid (Stabiliser / Conditioner)

I bought most of my pipework/pump/filter from 1stdirectpools who have a good selection and reasonable prices.

I'm guessing you've got a polycarbonate roof from the photos? I've got a polycarbonate roof and despite it being "indoors" have discovered a lot of UV actually makes it through and breaks down the FC. I currently have the CYA at 30 but am tempted to increase it as my chlorine loss with the cover off all day on a sunny day is ~2ppm but only ~2ppm/week with the cover on.
 
SteveSwims said:
Great! Will try that then 👍
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Sorry, that is not going to work, you will not have enough volume to get the dot to obscure.

Wait 48 hours. Fill the tube to the 30 line. Take a picture. Use that in the future so you know what 20 looks like. CYA degrade about 5-10 per month. Likely less in your pool. Over time, you will learn how much to add to raise it back when your test is not as obscured as your photo. Add in 5ppm increments and wait 48 hour. It is even ok to run your pool at 30ppm.
 
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jakeblat said:
I've been using this place for liquid chlorine, normally getting 4x5 litres at a time - Liquid Chlorine ChlorForce M15 -for Swimming Pools
For dry stabiliser - 2kg Cyanuric Acid (Stabiliser / Conditioner)

I bought most of my pipework/pump/filter from 1stdirectpools who have a good selection and reasonable prices.

I'm guessing you've got a polycarbonate roof from the photos? I've got a polycarbonate roof and despite it being "indoors" have discovered a lot of UV actually makes it through and breaks down the FC. I currently have the CYA at 30 but am tempted to increase it as my chlorine loss with the cover off all day on a sunny day is ~2ppm but only ~2ppm/week with the cover on.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Will take a look there!

Do you dilute that 15% liquid chlorine at all or do you just add it neat?

Not sure what material the roof panels are, they are a clear type of plastic though. That’s interesting to know though, I guess I’ll aim for 20/30 CYA as a start point t and see just how quickly the FC drops off then.

I do intend to leave the pool cover on when the pools not being used (once I get it operational!) so maybe that will help me too
 
I decant what the PoolMath app says I need into a plastic measuring jug and slowly pour it in neat front of the return (with the pump running). The only downside to those bottles above is they glug when they're really full so I pour them over the water so I don't have to deal with spillage.

If the panels are clear and plastic they'll be polycarbonate (sadly I now know rather too much about conservatory roofs after some storm damage and a refused insurance claim I'm fighting). Do you have any fresh air ventilation? You'll probably find on a sunny day it gets incredibly hot in there, I regularly see the temperature hit 50°C on sunny summer days.

I see you've got a dehumidifier (which is something I'm missing) so keeping the cover on will really reduce evaporation/humidity and cut down on the energy costs.
 
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Thanks, I’ll place an order for those then I think!

Yeah, I know what you mean about the heat in there! The building has 3 or 4 pairs of sliding doors around the walls but if they’re all closed then it can be intense when you first go in!

There is a dehumidifier but that’s another part I’ve not got to yet, not sure how often to run it or how to set it or what it’s benefits are really! Still very new to it all, plus having inherited this setup when I moved to the house I’ve not got the advantage of having been the one to have chosen all of the gear etc…
 
In an ideal world the dehumidifier will run 24/7, your electricity bill might make you change your mind on that. I only run my pump for an hour a day if I'm not using the pool and the cover is on, and when adding chemicals/heating the water. Because it's indoors you're not going to get much debris in there that most people have to deal with.

Another thing worth mentioning is your test kit, I see you managed to find a Taylor K2006 (probably from Amazon). These test kits aren't approved for sale here (or Europe) so might disappear in the future. I had a lot of problem finding a test kit a few years ago before someone started importing them through Amazon.

At the moment it's possible to order refills for the FAS-DPD FC/CC test from Amazon.com in much larger quantities than the K2006 kit (although based on reviews you might get out of date, or close to expiry reagents):
R-0871 - Amazon.com
R-0870 - Amazon.com
 
The general indoor pool recommendation seems to be to keep the humidity around 50-60% and the air temperature 2degrees above the water temperature (Our essential guide to controlling the humidity of indoor pools). I'm guessing that's a dantherm dehumidifier that will probably use anything from 700 watts to 2,700 watts depending on the particular model and the air temp/humidity.

Without a dehumidifier this is what I tend to get, above 70% humidity isn't that pleasant to swim in without a good fresh air supply. During the day the humidity drops as the temperature rises and at night it rises back up again (although doesn't get high enough to get condensation on the inside).
1720478653761.png
 
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@jakeblat Thanks for the heads up about the Taylor kits, it wa as struggle to find one, didn’t realise they weren’t cleared for sale in the U.K.!

Are there any other test kits that are as good, which are readily available here?

Taken a look at the dehumidifier this evening and yeah it’s a Dantherm CDP 45.

Switched it on, doesn’t look like it’s got any controls so will leave it running and see what sort of impact it has! I’ve got some spare hygrometers lying around too so I’ll stick one in the pool house and see what I get!
 
The test kit options aren't good for following the TFP methodology (chlorine testing is the problem). I made a summary when I last looked here: UK Pool Test Kits

Simce I wrote that the PoolLab 2.0 came out which does have a high range chlorine test available but it works out about £0.60 a test.

I'm using the Taylor kit for now but the reagents for FAS-DPD are banned in the EU from what I can tell. Similar tests were previously available 10+ years ago but Lovibond/Palintest/Lamotte have all stopped selling them and I got an email back from one of them saying they couldn't get permission to sell the tests in the EU.

You can get something like this that will record the temperature/humidity history so you can download it to your phone https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inkbird-Thermometer-Temperature-Calibration-Refrigerators/dp/B08SQS74XP/ . I've used one of those before but use an extra sensor for my weather station now.
 

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