- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,775
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Metal stain help
- Thread starter gregs
- Start date
You might be confusing me with some others that posted here. My header information is correct. It was incorrect on the first post but I updated it.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,775
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Your big signature (at the bottom if you turn your device sideways) says that. Old info I assume. Click here to change it.
Fc- Creep up on minimum (2ppm) to get yourself out of the danger zone & maintain that for a bit. Recheck your cya (get the sample to room temp).
If stains start reappearing add a little more sequestrant. Keeping ph in the low 7’s.
Did you plan on exchanging any water?
Sorry I didn’t see the tag line. I have no idea how that information got there but I just deleted it.
That’s what I am trying to do on the balance. Hoping to get the chlorine stabilized so that I can start to use the SWCG again to maintain it at a 2ppm level.
Not planning on any water exchange. Between the giant overflowing rain storms and the fact that I am using conditioned water with low iron when necessary I think I am going to be good. When I did the iron removal years ago, everything had iron on it including the plastic fittings and pool cleaner. This time it’s been not as bad and all the plastic parts have stayed white over the years. So I am thinking the iron amount is small. So hopefully keeping the sequestrant in it and water exchanges from storms will keep it looking good for a while.
That’s what I am trying to do on the balance. Hoping to get the chlorine stabilized so that I can start to use the SWCG again to maintain it at a 2ppm level.
Not planning on any water exchange. Between the giant overflowing rain storms and the fact that I am using conditioned water with low iron when necessary I think I am going to be good. When I did the iron removal years ago, everything had iron on it including the plastic fittings and pool cleaner. This time it’s been not as bad and all the plastic parts have stayed white over the years. So I am thinking the iron amount is small. So hopefully keeping the sequestrant in it and water exchanges from storms will keep it looking good for a while.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,775
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You certainly want to get back to maintaining target range fc but you just have to go slow. Its quite the balance- you don’t want to bring about stains but you also don’t want algae as having to slam within 2 weeks of the aa treatment can bring the stains back.
In sunny Florida you’ll need a higher cya (60-70) or your swcg will be working overtime - be sure to increase fc accordingly as you increase the cya.
Before increasing cya past 30/40 do an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to ensure nothing is brewing.
I normally keep the CYA at the 60-80 level. It was low from rains and since it was winter I didn’t worry to much about it. I was thinking of getting the chlorine and other levels stabilized first before working on the CYA. My salt level is also low. I just don’t want to start dumping everything in at the same time.
The pool looked good then went cloudy after adding the Metal Magic. I knew this would happen and didn’t worry to much about it. I have been slowly adding 12.5% chlorine at 32oz at a time over the last 2 days to get the levels to 2-3ppm. So far I have used 2 gallons total. I don’t know if that seems like a lot or not enough? I also started adding some Borax and Soda ash to bring the ph up to around 7-7.2 predisolving it first at about 1# each at different times. The water is milky white with a bluish hue to it. I have cleaned the cartridge filter multiple times and get a white milky residue off. It looks like a milky river where I clean it. When I did the Metal Magic treatment by itself before, I had a similar situation but it cleared after a couple of days. This hasn’t seemed to change much in the past 2 days. Pump is still running full speed 24/7. Should I just stay the course? In the areas that I can see that where stained before it does not look like any stains have returned. When I sweep the sun shelf I still see a small amount of dust come off.
FC 2-2.5
PH 7-7.2
Alkalinity 100
FC 2-2.5
PH 7-7.2
Alkalinity 100
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,775
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Stay the course with filtering & cleaning the filters. There’s really nothing else you can do but be patient & filter filter filter. Its a bit early yet to look for another solution I think so long as you’re keeping fc.
Try keeping at least 3ppm to get you out of the danger zone yet still on the low end.
Got a bot with fine filters you can run?
You can try sticking a pool pole in each day in the same spot to help determine clarity improvements. Even taking pics at the same time & spot each day can help show some improvement that’s just hard to see in person.
Finally found @setsailsoon ’s intense aa thread- its worth the read
www.troublefreepool.com
Try keeping at least 3ppm to get you out of the danger zone yet still on the low end.
Got a bot with fine filters you can run?
You can try sticking a pool pole in each day in the same spot to help determine clarity improvements. Even taking pics at the same time & spot each day can help show some improvement that’s just hard to see in person.
Finally found @setsailsoon ’s intense aa thread- its worth the read
Iron stains AA plus Metal Magic?
Folks, I'm on my 6th year of a crystal clear TFP pool but noticing splotchy light tan stains - classic iron. Failed the chlorine tablet test but passed vitamin C test with flying colors. I read up everything I can find on AA, citric acid, oxalic acid. I'm pretty sold on AA because of so many...
www.troublefreepool.com
That’s one of the posts I read thru prior to starting. I was wondering if adding the borax or soda ash makes the cloudiness worse?Stay the course with filtering & cleaning the filters. There’s really nothing else you can do but be patient & filter filter filter. Its a bit early yet to look for another solution I think so long as you’re keeping fc.
Try keeping at least 3ppm to get you out of the danger zone yet still on the low end.
Got a bot with fine filters you can run?
You can try sticking a pool pole in each day in the same spot to help determine clarity improvements. Even taking pics at the same time & spot each day can help show some improvement that’s just hard to see in person.
Finally found @setsailsoon ’s intense aa thread- its worth the read
Iron stains AA plus Metal Magic?
Folks, I'm on my 6th year of a crystal clear TFP pool but noticing splotchy light tan stains - classic iron. Failed the chlorine tablet test but passed vitamin C test with flying colors. I read up everything I can find on AA, citric acid, oxalic acid. I'm pretty sold on AA because of so many...
My only problem at this time is having to go out of town Saturday and Sunday for Easter. I am thinking about putting the SWCG back online to hopefully keep chlorine going in.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,775
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I do have a variable speed pump. I have been running it full speed 24/7 thinking this would offer the most filtration.
Overnight I lost about .5 ppm on the chlorine. Bright and sunny today I lost 2ppm. I have to retest the CYA but it was down to 30 when I started.
It’s still cloudy white and hasn’t improved much. I just finished cleaning the filter and it was the same cloudy white. The PH is still hovering at 7.0 I was thinking of trying to raise it more with some Borax but wondered if that would just add more to the cloudiness?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,775
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Your ta is 100- have you tried pointing your jets up to aerate & help raise ph?
If you do add more borax go easy - perhaps do 1/2 of poolmath says & see where you land. You can always add more later.
Be sure you account for your current borate level now as well since you have added borax + whatever it was before.
You’re catching stuff so definitely keep filtering like you are.
Looks like running your swcg somewhere around 17-20% around the clock should maintain your fc while you’re away.
How long will you be gone?
I have 2 bubblers on the sun shelf that when I open the valve full it makes a good bit of aeration. And I have been doing that. My PH test is showing 7.2. I don’t think I am going to add anything to raise the PH anymore especially if I turn on the SWCG.
I have considered adding more polyquat at the max dose level just in case?
When I look in the water it’s kinda like fog. You can see the white bits sorta swirling around in the water. I am half worried that it’s algae but it held FC overnight pretty well and it’s definitely just white, no green or yellow shades.
I am leaving in the morning and coming back Sunday night. I am already on the hit list since everybody else left today!
I have considered adding more polyquat at the max dose level just in case?
When I look in the water it’s kinda like fog. You can see the white bits sorta swirling around in the water. I am half worried that it’s algae but it held FC overnight pretty well and it’s definitely just white, no green or yellow shades.
I am leaving in the morning and coming back Sunday night. I am already on the hit list since everybody else left today!
So my thought is now that with the previous Metal Magic treatment and the current use of it after the AA that I might have a higher level of phosphate that is contributing to the longer amount of cloudiness.
Thinking about a cartridge filter used in an air situation it actually becomes more efficient at removing smaller particles as it becomes more clogged up. I don’t know what the micron level is on a cartridge pool filter. But since I won’t be able to clean it for a couple of days maybe it will work better to filter the super fine particles.
I am going to add some CYA to raise my level while I am gone.
With the bubblers running wide open and the SWCG on my PH has risen to 7.4 overnight. So I am going to turn the bubblers off while I am gone.
Just for safety I am going to add more polyquat. I don’t see a down side to it at this point?
Thinking about a cartridge filter used in an air situation it actually becomes more efficient at removing smaller particles as it becomes more clogged up. I don’t know what the micron level is on a cartridge pool filter. But since I won’t be able to clean it for a couple of days maybe it will work better to filter the super fine particles.
I am going to add some CYA to raise my level while I am gone.
With the bubblers running wide open and the SWCG on my PH has risen to 7.4 overnight. So I am going to turn the bubblers off while I am gone.
Just for safety I am going to add more polyquat. I don’t see a down side to it at this point?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,775
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Don’t forget to increase fc to account for the higher cya. I wouldn’t go past 40/50ppm cya until you get past this & can do another
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Fun fact- phosphate removal will also cloud the water so I would just stay filtering & make sure you’re maintaining fc above min.
The polyquat & fc will fight eachother a bit so be prepared for that.
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Fun fact- phosphate removal will also cloud the water so I would just stay filtering & make sure you’re maintaining fc above min.
The polyquat & fc will fight eachother a bit so be prepared for that.
Thanks. I decided not to add the polyquat. I also add a low amount of CYA just bringing it up slow. Otherwise just letting it run for now.
I got home late last night to find the pump running on a very slow speed. In my haste to get the SWCG back online I didn’t get everything set correctly. Good news the pool didn’t turn green and the chlorine level was around 1.5ppm after 2 bright sunny days. Bad news was the cloudiness was about the same. So I dosed it with a little liquid chlorine and reconfigured the timer operation to get it back running full speed with the chlorine generator operating.
This morning the chlorine level was up to 3ppm and the water looked slightly clearer. Hoping a few more days and it will start to get better.
This morning the chlorine level was up to 3ppm and the water looked slightly clearer. Hoping a few more days and it will start to get better.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,775
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Fyi-
The vsp doesn’t need to run at full speed during regular (non problem) times.
Rpms just need to be high enough to satisfy the swcg’s flow switch & also your heater if you have one.
Many find somewhere around 1200-1400 rpms is enough.
The vsp doesn’t need to run at full speed during regular (non problem) times.
Rpms just need to be high enough to satisfy the swcg’s flow switch & also your heater if you have one.
Many find somewhere around 1200-1400 rpms is enough.