HELP - Greenish colored water, semi-clear

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T

TXPoolmom6

Well-known member
Aug 7, 2022
67
DFW
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I finally got my pool to a sweet spot and then suddenly it started turning green. I had this trouble last fall, but it seemed much easier to get under control. The summer heat I am sure has something to do with it. I am out of a few parts of my TFP testing kit and so have had to rely on my local pool shop to run my tests (which of course I am unsure about ALL the chemcial recs their giving to get rid of green pool water - something called green to clean)

Here are my numbers:

FC - .13
TC - .13
pH - 7.8
TA - 89
CH - 280
CYA - 5
 
Suggest you show what tests you are able to do.
With a CYA of 5 (if that is believable by the pool store) - you have no stabilizer protecting your chlorine, so any chlorine you add is being burnt off by UV within hours
Need to add granular stabilizer ASAP. Plus add LC to get at least 5 ppm FC and continue to add that throughout the day until you get stabilizer in the water.
Not need to add anything but stabilizer and LC.

EDIT - I should add that bring CYA up to 30 and plan to do a SLAM Process so you can rid your pool of algae. Therefore go purchase 8-12 gallons of LC
 
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Here are some results. I added stabilizer as I know my CYA has been low for some time, however I agree I am unsure of the validity of the pool store tests. I also added some liquid chlorine because it's been crazy hot. I have the TF-100 kit but am currently out of the powder that is needed to to test the CC and FC and also could not find the cylinder to verify my CYA. I have ordered these. Here are my numbers today and some pictures.

Test block shows
Chlorine at 5 (it is pretty bright yellow, I might also call it higher than 5)
pH 7.8

using TF-100 test kit
CH - 300
TA - 80 (light pink) 90 (dark pink)
 

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I have my missing TF100 kits on order. Is there anything I can do in the meantime? Or am I going to have to wait to get the kits components? I am brushing daily. It is SO hot we just want to swim, but I feel like that's not something we can do until it's cleared up. No quick fixes are there?
 
+1 on chlorine now.

Run to Walmart and get several gallons of Pool Essentials liquid chlorine and add 1 gallon daily until your refills arrive.
Note there is nothing special about Walmarts chlorine so feel free to sub liquid chlorine from other stores as well.
 
TXPoolmom6 said:
Here are some results. I added stabilizer as I know my CYA has been low for some time, however I agree I am unsure of the validity of the pool store tests. I also added some liquid chlorine because it's been crazy hot. I have the TF-100 kit but am currently out of the powder that is needed to to test the CC and FC and also could not find the cylinder to verify my CYA. I have ordered these. Here are my numbers today and some pictures.

Test block shows
Chlorine at 5 (it is pretty bright yellow, I might also call it higher than 5)
pH 7.8

using TF-100 test kit
CH - 300
TA - 80 (light pink) 90 (dark pink)
Click to expand...
In addition to purchasing Liquid Chlorine, I would purchase some granular stabilizer. Don’t add the stabilizer yet until you test your CYA with the kit but I would guess your CYA is low which is allowing the FC to burn off so quickly.
I would suggest you may need to add 2 gallons of LC a day - 1 in morning and 1 in afternoon.

Using your block test, you can at least know your FC is above 5 which is good to trying to prevent any further algae growth.
 
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TXPoolmom6 said:
I have my missing TF100 kits on order. Is there anything I can do in the meantime? Or am I going to have to wait to get the kits components? I am brushing daily. It is SO hot we just want to swim, but I feel like that's not something we can do until it's cleared up. No quick fixes are there?
Click to expand...
Sorry- no quick fix. Just the
SLAM Process.
It is safe to swim with ph in the 7’s & fc anywhere between minimum & slam level for your cya so long as you can see the bottom of the pool for swimmer safety.
Unfortunately you’re not really sure of your cya but I would imagine you’re somewhere between zero & 30. So starting a swim with 5ppm showing on the oto is a safe bet.
IMG_6554.jpeg
When was the last time you checked cya with your kit & what was the measurement?
How have you been chlorinating the pool?
 
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Okay YAY my kit refill items came in....here is the good bad and ugly. While waiting for my test kit I decided to use some critical thinking and check my cartridge filters. YIKES. They were SO bad. 24-48 hrs later and the pool is already looking so much better. Still the color is a hint green and it is certainly cloudy. We are brushing every day and putting in two gallons liquid chlorine in every day (one am and one pm) and it seems to be holding the algae at bay, but the pool isn't crystal clear like it was before I went on vacation. I have never had good stabilizer levels, but certainly better than what they are now.

Yesterday I checked my CYA it was 20 today it is 0, makes absolutely no sense to me, but I can't seem to get my brain wrapped around how all these things work. My PoolMath app showed I needed to add muriatic acid to bring down my pH based on the TA level, which I did, but now it appears my TA is too low. I am certain I need to spend some more time re-learning the ins and outs. I am starting over and give today as my baseline:

Block shows
Chlorine 0
pH 7.5

All the TF-100 tests are as follows
FC - .5
CC - .5
CH - 375
TA - 60
CYA - 0 (I can still see the little black dot in the bottom, but even yesterday I barely saw it at 20)

Based on the pool math I need to add quite a bit of baking soda and definitely stabilizer and obviously chlorine. What is the best order to do this in? I have not ever done a SLAM because I was unsure when that needed to take place.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions
 
TXPoolmom6 said:
Okay YAY my kit refill items came in....here is the good bad and ugly. While waiting for my test kit I decided to use some critical thinking and check my cartridge filters. YIKES. They were SO bad. 24-48 hrs later and the pool is already looking so much better. Still the color is a hint green and it is certainly cloudy. We are brushing every day and putting in two gallons liquid chlorine in every day (one am and one pm) and it seems to be holding the algae at bay, but the pool isn't crystal clear like it was before I went on vacation. I have never had good stabilizer levels, but certainly better than what they are now.

Yesterday I checked my CYA it was 20 today it is 0, makes absolutely no sense to me, but I can't seem to get my brain wrapped around how all these things work. My PoolMath app showed I needed to add muriatic acid to bring down my pH based on the TA level, which I did, but now it appears my TA is too low. I am certain I need to spend some more time re-learning the ins and outs. I am starting over and give today as my baseline:

Block shows
Chlorine 0
pH 7.5

All the TF-100 tests are as follows
FC - .5
CC - .5
CH - 375
TA - 60
CYA - 0 (I can still see the little black dot in the bottom, but even yesterday I barely saw it at 20)

Based on the pool math I need to add quite a bit of baking soda and definitely stabilizer and obviously chlorine. What is the best order to do this in? I have not ever done a SLAM because I was unsure when that needed to take place.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions
Click to expand...
*You don’t need baking soda - your ta is fine.
*You want to lower your ph to 7.2 with Muriatic acid.
&
*add enough cya to get a solid 30ppm - so add 20ppm worth (in a sock 🧦- tie the sock, hang infront of a running return away from the pool wall- squeeze the sock)
*Then you can immediately begin the
SLAM Process assuming 30ppm cya - so slam level is 12ppm FC/CYA Levels
Retest cya in 24 hours & adjust slam fc level if needed. Do the cya test outside in bright light- back to the sun.
*Test & Replenish fc to 12ppm as often as possible. Every couple hours if you can swing it. At least 3-4 times a day otherwise it will be slow going.
Do all the things 👇
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

You are done when:
✅ CC is 0.5 or lower;
✅ You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
✅ The water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)
 
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Mdragger88 said:
*You don’t need baking soda - your ta is fine.
*You want to lower your ph to 7.2 with Muriatic acid.
&
*add enough cya to get a solid 30ppm - so add 20ppm worth (in a sock 🧦- tie the sock, hang infront of a running return away from the pool wall- squeeze the sock)
*Then you can immediately begin the
SLAM Process assuming 30ppm cya - so slam level is 12ppm FC/CYA Levels
Retest cya in 24 hours & adjust slam fc level if needed. Do the cya test outside in bright light- back to the sun.
*Test & Replenish fc to 12ppm as often as possible. Every couple hours if you can swing it. At least 3-4 times a day otherwise it will be slow going.
Do all the things 👇
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

You are done when:
✅ CC is 0.5 or lower;
✅ You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
✅ The water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)
Click to expand...
*getting IN pool now to scrub crevices and niches
*got it on the TA and will lower pH

I’m sure I’ll sound dumb but what does add 20ppm of stabilizer mean (based on my pool app says 6lbs 4oz dry stabilizer)


I have also been running my pool vac daily

Thank you thank you thank you
 
TXPoolmom6 said:
*getting IN pool now to scrub crevices and niches
*got it on the TA and will lower pH
Click to expand...
👍🏻 you may not need to worry about ph as the cya is a touch acidic.
TXPoolmom6 said:
I’m sure I’ll sound dumb but what does add 20ppm of stabilizer mean (based on my pool app says 6lbs 4oz dry stabilizer)
Click to expand...
You only need 4# to add 20ppm.
IMG_7215.jpeg
Add the PoolMath
prescribed amount to a sock 🧦 (you’ll probably need 2 socks & split the difference) then tie a knot in the socks & hang them infront of a running return. (Tie it to a pole or something)
Squeeze them on occasion to help the cya dissolve. You can do this while in the pool.
TXPoolmom6 said:
I have also been running my pool vac daily

Thank you thank you thank you
Click to expand...
😊
 
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HermanTX said:
Using 25k gals and dry stabilizer, you only need 4lbs to raise CYA by 19ppm . Don’t overshoot
Click to expand...
Got it on the pH didn't have time to to add anything to make that adjustment anyway. I only had 2.5lbs of dry stabilizer to add to my sock and it has already dissolved yay! I have more on the way and thanks to Amazon it will be here before I wake up LOL. I also added one gallon of liquid chlorine.
 
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Mdragger88 said:
Sorry- no quick fix. Just the
SLAM Process.
It is safe to swim with ph in the 7’s & fc anywhere between minimum & slam level for your cya so long as you can see the bottom of the pool for swimmer safety.
Unfortunately you’re not really sure of your cya but I would imagine you’re somewhere between zero & 30. So starting a swim with 5ppm showing on the oto is a safe bet.
View attachment 519178
When was the last time you checked cya with your kit & what was the measurement?
How have you been chlorinating the pool?
Click to expand...
This chart has me so confused. Once I start the SLAM, assuming my CYA is 30 for instance, it says SLAM Level 12. Is that 12 gallons of chlorine?
 
No , doesn't mean 12 gallons. It does mean 12 ppm of Free Chlorine (FC) in the pool water as per poolmath calculations. 12 ppm level is the same in every pool just the amount of more or less chlorine to get there is dependent on the pool size.
 
TXPoolmom6 said:
This chart has me so confused. Once I start the SLAM, assuming my CYA is 30 for instance, it says SLAM Level 12. Is that 12 gallons of chlorine?
Click to expand...
No, your Free Chlorine level would need to be 12 and stay at 12 for the entirety of the SLAM.

Free chlorine is measured by the test with the powder.

For reference, 1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will raise your pool's FC by 4.0.
 
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