Placement question on generator

Jrock817

Well-known member
Jul 9, 2018
104
CT
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45
Hello all, super excited to install my RJ-45 today. I have to run to get some pipe for my new VS pump, and had a question before I go ahead with the vertical install kit. The one thing in my way was the ground wire attachment on the straight pipe after my heater, before my valves to returns. I know I needed a certain distance from the valve for install to ensure flow would not be interrupted, does it matter where I move the grounding block? Can I just move it back a bit, keeping it after all of the equipment and heater? I will post a pic of what I mean here shortly
 
It’s the same run that has one end of the chlorination running into it


47565526-FF08-4951-B3B3-342D20BCAA51.jpeg
 
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Can you place the SWCG by cutting the pipe where the exit line for the current chlorinator is connected? You would not need to move any other item. However you need to plug where the other line will be removed for the chlorinator that leads to the heater.
 
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With a simple setup, it matters alot less. I had similar and my SWG (with an internal flow switch) was 90'd directly to my heater and it worked great.

You can move the water bond if you'd like.
 
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Can you place the SWCG by cutting the pipe where the exit line for the current chlorinator is connected? You would not need to move any other item. However you need to plug where the other line will be removed for the chlorinator that leads to the heater.
That was my plan, but I remember reading that the outlet for SWCG had to be a minimum distance from my flow valve? Maybe it has changed.
 
With a simple setup, it matters alot less. I had similar and my SWG (with an internal flow switch) was 90'd directly to my heater and it worked great.

You can move the water bond if you'd like.
Does the water bond just need to be plumbed in anywhere? There is a perfect spot toward the back, after the heater, before it makes the 90 to the returns, or I could put it where I need to replace the piece of pipe where the old
Inlet to the in line chlorinater is, but that is before the heater, so not sure if that is ok.
 
And I would rather not use the vertical install kit. That pipe has plenty of space, as long as there are not constraints on how close it it to the return valve. It is a 90, as I only have 2 returns, if that makes a difference
 
And I would rather not use the vertical install kit. That pipe has plenty of space, as long as there are not constraints on how close it it to the return valve. It is a 90, as I only have 2 returns, if that makes a difference
I see no reason to use the vertical install kit. You have a nice long piece of straight pipe. Just have 6-10 inches on either side of the SWCG of straight (the water bond counts as part of that length). It is important to have 10 inches of straight flow before the flow sensor so you could leave the water bond piece in place, then go another 6 inches and put in the flow sensor, then go another 6 inches with the SWCG.

If you want to move the water bond, then that is fine. It appears you have 6ft of straight pipe from the diverted valve back to that 90 deg fitting. That includes the existing water bond and check valve fittings.
 
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Alright, just about finished. Plumbed everything back in, only problem is I need a new union for the filter. The old elbow was too long for my new variable speed pump, I borrowed a reamer tool from a friend to try and salvage the union fitting, but I think there is too much slop to trust it. Is there a specific part number for the union, it is certainly larger than the other unions.
 

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Ok ordered the unions and installed everything, mounted the controller. I may have overlooked one thing. My timer is a 2 circuit timer, but my pump and my heater are already on it. Do I need to get a 3 circuit timer, or can I just double up one circuit with the pump and controller?
 
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