Cover off, water green

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Mimi Pool

Mimi Pool

Active member
May 8, 2021
34
Howard County, MD
Pool Size
28400
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
This thread will be similar to drewghost but I didn't want to bogart his. This is the first time I can remember the pool being green at opening. Pool company will be here any moment to hook up the filter and all the other things they do. The pH is off the charts literally, I can't measure it but seems well above 8, I used 10 for PoolMath app. CYA is 40. Deep end and shallow end pics posted, for deep end there are drains down there somewhere! We've got 18 gals of liquid chlorine but will need more of what gets the pH down. We start off with an older set of cartridge filters so once the water clears we'll swap them out.

I thought there was a calculation that told you how many gallons of chlorine you would need that took into account the number of gallons in your pool in addition to test results but can't find it. I do see that FC will need to be raised to 20.
 
Re-test your water once the pump has been circulating the water for at least an hour or two. Make note of ANY product the pool techs try to add to your water. Once you have good, reliable results, then prepare to do a SLAM Process. If you follow that article carefully, you can change that water from green to crystal clear. Good luck!
 
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Green is all gone, put in total of 8 gal 10% chlorine, the last two raised FC from 4 to 12. There was a lot of dirt in the pool, have changed the vacuum bag three times. Just cloudy now and getting clearer, can see the drains in deep end. Additional readings - TA 90, CH 240, CSI 0.61, Temp 59. Still don't have a handle on pH, the color is more purple than anything on the vial, I'm thinking the reagent may be bad. Might ask my neighbor who has a pool.
 
The PH test now is unreliable with an FC above 10. What you need is to get a good CYA test after some good circulation so you can actually reach slam and not guess slam or you're just wasting LC.
 
The pH test is working the same as when FC was zero, and everything in between. I'm not aware of a "good CYA" test beyond the Taylor test kit which is what I use. I'm confident in my CYA reading of 40. Update pic attached - reflection off the water makes it harder to see, but the drains are clearly visible, its just not crystal clear yet. I have to go by the pool store to pay them for some ancillary things they fixed at opening so will bring them a water sample.
 

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Glad to see such a quick rebound from dingy green to blue water. That was very fast. The pic may be misleading, but it looks a bit hazy still. Regardless, you have a good test kit so there is no need to take a water sample to anyone. I guarantee their advice will probably contradict TFP and only confuse you. You're on the right path now as long as you complete the SLAM Process by following through and passing all 3 SLAM criteria on that page. That's very important. You're almost there, so don't let-up now. Good luck!
 
Thank you - it is still a bit hazy/cloudy and failed (barely) the OCLT. Once we get the pH in order we'll go forward with the SLAM. The pool store did get a pH reading of 8.5 which indicates the reagent is OK. They also measured CYA at 40. To your point, our TA is 90, high end of the target range, and they pushed a chemical to raise it to 125-150, no thanks. We won't be confused, they lost us on the whole issue of CYA which they insist is nothing to worry about.
 
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