empty salt H20 pool down clean out vs washing machine. hose vs 1.5" vs 2" hose

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now i got 3000 ppm salt. i added one more drop of pool h20 than I normally would've to make sure the water line was right at the line. I think I usually go with the top of the water line, not the bottom of the water line. which way is it? so, it could be 400 ppm off now.

pH is up to 7.8 now so I'll add acid.
 
Does the SWG indicate it is producing chlorine?

Take the pH down to 7.2 to help lower TA. Aerate to raise pH or let pH rise on its own. Rinse, repeat until TA is 60-70.
 
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still says "low salt check system" "salt 2600 ppm"
flow switch says "flow"
"Instant Salt" and under that says "chlorinator off"
Do either of those mean anything re if the SWG is producing chlorine? If not, where do I look?

I haven't added bleach for 3 days and FC is remaining high, going up and down a bit, but very high for the low amount of CYA. It's gotta be producing chlorine. I'm considering adding enough salt to get it up 100 ppm so that it stops reading "check system" as I want that light to alert me of other things if needed (like cell needing to be cleaned).
 
Did you test your pH today?
What about your TA?
You need to stay on top of the pH so your TA comes down.

What is your current CYA?

In PoolMath
Track CSI and Track Water Temperature
Those, along with your other test results will show the CSI - whidh should be kept slightly negative (0.00 to -0.30) to help minimize scaling in the SWG.

When is the tech coming put to check the salt system?
 
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Kim - @outdoorsgal - you need to check this thread at least twice daily for replies to your posts and to post updates yourself.

Once every two days is going to take you down the path you've been before - and we both know how that ended up.
 
I wouldn’t add more salt - you don’t want to fry anything & cause more issues if they replace parts with functioning ones.
you just cleaned your cell so that alert shouldn’t be an issue anyway. Something is amiss & since you’re under warranty it’s best to let the tech truly solve the problem. If it’s producing just carry on with getting your pool balanced. You can try to grab an fc sample directly from a return & compare it to the bulk of the pool water to confirm it’s producing.
You mentioned a jacuzzi cell - is that what’s in there now?
 
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Mdragger88 said:
I wouldn’t add more salt - you don’t want to fry anything & cause more issues if they replace parts with functioning ones.
you just cleaned your cell so that alert shouldn’t be an issue anyway. Something is amiss & since you’re under warranty it’s best to let the tech truly solve the problem. If it’s producing just carry on with getting your pool balanced. You can try to grab an fc sample directly from a return & compare it to the bulk of the pool water to confirm it’s producing.
You mentioned a jacuzzi cell - is that what’s in there now?
Click to expand...
Sound advice. Best to wait for the tech while manually chlorinating and doing the necessary testing.

It appears the cell is a Hayward T Cell 940 (basically a T15 with extended life).
I'm not familiar with the Hayward ProLogic automation - but my guess is if the salt is low, it probably shuts the chlorinator down - based on the other indications reported. OP needs to learn and understand her automation system as that will help troubleshoot the issues experienced. Also, posting pics of what she is seeing on the panel might help us figure it out. It would be great if OP could provide diagnostic readings from the panel as that may point us in the right direction to better help.
 
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Mdragger88 said:
I wouldn’t add more salt - you don’t want to fry anything & cause more issues if they replace parts with functioning ones.
you just cleaned your cell so that alert shouldn’t be an issue anyway. Something is amiss & since you’re under warranty it’s best to let the tech truly solve the problem. If it’s producing just carry on with getting your pool balanced. You can try to grab an fc sample directly from a return & compare it to the bulk of the pool water to confirm it’s producing.
You mentioned a jacuzzi cell - is that what’s in there now?
Click to expand...
good to know not to add more salt, thx. I currently have a new Hayward cell. good idea about grabbing h20 sample directly from a return and comparing it.
 
Gene, I thought I was doing really well posting, checking, and testing. I figure my main thing is to test FC twice a day so pool doesn't go green and all the rest is important but that's a must. I haven't done this well but I've done this long enough to remember that TA takes a while to get there so only having needed to add MA twice I figured I have time. all the testings r in the app. I somexs write it in my book where I've always kept track and somexs I don't upload it in the app until later. I know it's not ideal but somexs I'm in a rush and if I'm just checking FC to make sure I don't have to add chlorine or make adjustments that's how that goes. my current CYA is 35. I think in the past you said that means 30.

pool guy comes Thursday to check salt cell/panel and put in an LED light that didn't last long. I was going to try to do that myself but I'm giving up that the pool DIY idea for things that aren't done often.

I took pics of my diagnostic panel but when I try to upload them here it says files r too large. Is there something specific u r wanting? I can try to upload pics again later.
 

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For the pics - turn off HDR and LIVE on your phone as those make the files too large.

Whenever doing the tests, take the extra 5 seconds and update PoolMath as well. The way you are doing it now looks like there is no consistent testing. We need to see numbers when you test to figure oit if oir advide is working.

Since you are actively trying to lower the TA by lowering the pH to 7.2, you need to check the pH and TA more frequently. Eadh time you add acid to lower the pH, the TA will drop a little. If you don't keep track of the TA, how will you know when you don't need to continue to lower the pH to 7.2?

Honestly, if you continue to rush and not take the time to do it right this time, it will only go downhill like it has in previous years. We get that you're busy - but if you can't take the time to attend to your pool's need yourself, you may have to consider alternatives. After it's balanced and the SWG is dialed in, it will only take a few minutes a day. Plus one brushing per week.
 
outdoorsgal said:
my current CYA is 35. I think in the past you said that means 30.
Click to expand...
You got it backwards- always round up if between two marks.
Your cya counts as 40.
Also, not sure if you’re doing this but, when adding the logs to poolmath later you can tell it what time/day so it’s logged correctly.
Hit the +
C36D5FCA-D36A-4B5E-B3F6-0BEB95963D6D.jpeg
Then log test results
0B5D0B12-F1EB-47E5-994B-15A576CDEF58.jpeg
Then change the date & time to when you actually got the results
50414709-D346-4284-88CE-C9AE78AA52F3.jpeg
Log all results, Then hit the ✔️ to save them. When you look back at your logs they will be in chronological order.
 
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www.iphonelife.com

How to Turn Off Live Photos on iPhone (2023)

Live Photos are a hybrid between a still image and a short video that work on iPhone 6S and newer. These unique moving pictures capture three seconds of video with a key photo in the middle, but there may be times when a traditional photo is better. In this article, you'll learn how to turn off...
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I figured out how to shut off motion on pics. thx Mdragger88!
 

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