Backflow Preventer

What is between the discharge side of the BFP and the pool ? Can you sketch what that plumbing looks like?
I reread your question. There is really nothing. It is a separate run that goes underground and into my auto fill (picture). It goes downhill too, so I can’t imagine there would be enough backflow to create a problem, especially because my water level is almost always below the auto fill outflow.

I’m not sure I answered your question though.
 

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Possible that it's trying to warn you of a different issue. My irrigation bfp did this after the pressure regulator on our house died(i ignored other symptons like failing toilet valves and awesome showers lol). The excess pressure in the house created a hammer forcing water into the backflow which was then stopped by the closed sprinkler valve. This sent water back to the backflow which then discharged the same water as it can only go one way.
Not sure if I explained that in a competent way lol but bottom line, check the pressure in the house to see if the pressure regulator is working which could be the actual issue. Our water district requires the full rpz at the street to protect the city, an rpz at the irrigation and and rpz at the pool. This creates a closed system so combined with unusually high pressure causes drama.

As an additional note , I installed several pressure guages all over now to watch for this.
1. After rpz at the meter
2. After pressure regulator for the house
3. After water softener inside
4. Before pool rpz
5. After pool rpz and pool pressure regulator
Yeah, our house has terrible water pressure. I’ve had multiple plumbers look at it. I even replaced my own water reducing valve. It didn’t help. The City says I’m on the low side of normal, so they are not going to anything. I get 50 psi from my hose bibs. When someone flushes the toilet, a person taking a shower can feel the reduced pressure.
 
I reread your question. There is really nothing. It is a separate run that goes underground and into my auto fill (picture). It goes downhill too, so I can’t imagine there would be enough backflow to create a problem, especially because my water level is almost always below the auto fill outflow.

I’m not sure I answered your question though.

That’s fine. I just wanted to know what was on both sides of the valve.

I don’t see any plumbing issues in terms of incorrect installation or components. My guess is that the BFP valve is probably cruded up (that’s a technical term 😉) on its internals with calcifications or even chloride salts built up on the brass. The rubber internal bladders and seals are probably worn too such that when the valve does what it’s supposed to do, it doesn’t shut off and return to it’s normal state easily and then it excessively weeps. Which leads to two possible corrective actions, neither of which is fun -

1. Remove the valve from service, pull it apart and rebuild all the internals, OR,

2. Toss the old valve and replace it.

Item 1 is a lot of time and fiddling around with no guarantee that you won’t screw the valve up but Item 2 is costly. It’s a “pick your poison” situation sadly …
 
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Is the feed to the backfloe copper or pvc? Are you handy? You could do a variation of the autofill modification that @Dirk did but put a NC US Solid solenoid valve in line ahead of the backflow. Tie that to your intellicenter on a spare relay and have it activate a few hours a day when it's unlikely other water usage is happening. This would shield the rpz from most pressure fluctuations which is when I'm guessing it's weeping. The side plus is your rarely hear the consistent hiss of the autofill as when it is going it is likely to have higher flow.
 
The motorized valves come "normally open" or "normally closed."

I chose "normally open" because I only shut off my auto-leveler's supply for a few hours a day. I want it open most of the time, and I want it to return to open all the time if there is some sort of failure with the timer. I don't want it closed for weeks if I happen to be away, which is, of course, when any failure would occur!

If you want it closed most of the time, then you might want "normally closed," just keep in mind these types of valves operate when you apply voltage, and then move to the other position when you remove voltage (including a power failure or timer failure).

The nice thing about them is that they don't require constant power to stay in either position, they only use power to move from normal position to the other position, unlike a solenoid type valve (like a typical sprinkler valve) that needs constant power to be in one of its two positions.

And these valves aren't subject to the issue I described earlier, having a second (or third) valve downstream of them, because they don't have a BFP component, and so can be subjected to constant pressure on either side of them.
 
I don't know if this would satisfy your water company's requirements, but this is the one I use. I have two of them now, one for the pool and one for my irrigation system. If I had put the first one in a different spot, I wouldn't have needed the second one, but at the time the cost of the second one didn't justify moving the first one.


First one was $52. The second one was $70. Now they're $89. Whattayagonnado. I'm guessing the one you have is considerably more than that (I saw some similar models in the four-figure range?!). So if replacement is a possibility, you could always ask your water company if the model I have is sufficient for their requirement. Or seek an even less expensive one.

My city didn't require mine, I just put them in, replacing the $10 PVC check valve the original pool builder installed. I based my choice on advice from a buddy, a 30-year vet of a Bay Area water company. I figured he would know. He's the one that taught me what I share about BFP mechanisms.
 
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I think ripping apart the plumbing to add automation isn’t the right way to go here. Sure you can use valves and automation to mask the problem but that does ACTUALLY FIX the underlying issues. Given the symptoms described, it points to a possible failure of the internal check valves or bladders on the BFP. It needs to be opened up and serviced. These BFPs have very carefully designed internal orifices and rubber seals that are designed to divert water when there is more than a 1 psi differential pressure. If the internal inlet orifice is even partially blocked or one of the o-rings is sticky, the valve won’t work right. It’s worth it to have someone open it up and inspect it. You can even contact Zurn customer support and they can probably walk you through a series of checks.
 
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If the house pressure is dropping a lot, then that will cause leakage.

I would add a check valve before and after the BFP to prevent pressure changes when the house pressure drops.

How much is a new BFP of the same type?

Maybe get a new one and replace it when adding unions and check valves.

That way, you can swap the BFP as needed and do maintenance as needed.
 
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I think ripping apart the plumbing to add automation isn’t the right way to go here. Sure you can use valves and automation to mask the problem but that does ACTUALLY FIX the underlying issues. Given the symptoms described, it points to a possible failure of the internal check valves or bladders on the BFP. It needs to be opened up and serviced. These BFPs have very carefully designed internal orifices and rubber seals that are designed to divert water when there is more than a 1 psi differential pressure. If the internal inlet orifice is even partially blocked or one of the o-rings is sticky, the valve won’t work right. It’s worth it to have someone open it up and inspect it. You can even contact Zurn customer support and they can probably walk you through a series of checks.
Agree. I didn't mean to imply with my suggestion of an automated valve that that was the best solution. If the BFP is not working, fix it or replace it. I posted a possible alternative BFP valve suggestion, too.

I just really love my new motorized valve and want everyone to feel the joy, whether they need one or not! 🤩
 
Me: Hey @Dirk … ya know, the other day my brakes were making this squealing noise and the peddle feels really mushy and it’s hard to stop. Do you think I should get it looked at??

Dirk: OR … check out this automated parachute deployment kit you can add to the trunk of your car. All you have to do is bolt it to the car frame, run some RS485 wires between the control box and your cars computer. Then just deploy some code you can get on GitHub and BOOM! you now have a secondary backup braking method !!!

Me:
Cant Speak Nathan Fillion GIF
 
I think ripping apart the plumbing to add automation isn’t the right way to go here. Sure you can use valves and automation to mask the problem but that does ACTUALLY FIX the underlying issues. Given the symptoms described, it points to a possible failure of the internal check valves or bladders on the BFP. It needs to be opened up and serviced. These BFPs have very carefully designed internal orifices and rubber seals that are designed to divert water when there is more than a 1 psi differential pressure. If the internal inlet orifice is even partially blocked or one of the o-rings is sticky, the valve won’t work right. It’s worth it to have someone open it up and inspect it. You can even contact Zurn customer support and they can probably walk you through a series of checks.
Given that the op stated that it is a requirement for his municipality to have annually tested, and that test occurred this week, I would say that it is working "within specification". In some installations, ie the op's, that means weeping is to be expected. The install instructions for the 975xl2 even state that it must be installed somewhere that weeping from the vent would not cause issues otherwise it should be installed with an air gapped drain underneath.
 
Me: Hey @Dirk … ya know, the other day my brakes were making this squealing noise and the peddle feels really mushy and it’s hard to stop. Do you think I should get it looked at??

Dirk: OR … check out this automated parachute deployment kit you can add to the trunk of your car. All you have to do is bolt it to the car frame, run some RS485 wires between the control box and your cars computer. Then just deploy some code you can get on GitHub and BOOM! you now have a secondary backup braking method !!!

Me:
Cant Speak Nathan Fillion GIF
Well that's just ridiculous. Everyone knows the parachute should be on your ejection seat, NOT in the trunk. Come on.

Aston martin ejector seat hi-res stock photography and images - Alamy


That said, can you send me a link to that GitHub code.
 
Alex, I hope you don't mind me correcting you a bit. There is a lot more than chlorine in a residential swimming pool, and it's definitely not potable water. If a backflow event occurred, pool water could contaminate an entire neighborhood's water supply, rendering it unusable, and creating a costly cleanup. It's conceivable the pool owner could be held liable for damages, too.

And a sprinkler valve is not appropriate, at all, for this application, because they are not rated to have a second valve downstream of them (only wide-open sprinklers or drip systems, that drain when they're done). The auto-fill valve at the OP's pool is that second valve, and even if he used a timer to shut off the sprinkler valve, the pool side of the sprinkler valve would remain under constant pressure, eventually causing it to fail as a backflow preventer, and very likely without him realizing it. Plus, there is no reliable way to test the BFP function of a sprinkler valve.

The reasons a municipality might require a proper BFP valve for a pool fill system are legit.

He's got the right part for the job, he just needs to determine if it's functioning correctly.
Except there's already a BFP at the meter. So the most that would be contaminated is yourself. Which is why I said it shouldn't be legislated for pool builds or the like. It's like a seatbelt law, and shouldn't exist ('ll give a pass to those requiring it of children, since they likely lack the autonomy to assess their personal risk).

In response to the dirty pool pics, I assure you there is more non-organic concerns IN the municipal supply than there is in an algae growing pool.
 
Alex, I hope you don't mind me correcting you a bit. There is a lot more than chlorine in a residential swimming pool, and it's definitely not potable water. If a backflow event occurred, pool water could contaminate an entire neighborhood's water supply, rendering it unusable, and creating a costly cleanup. It's conceivable the pool owner could be held liable for damages, too.

And a sprinkler valve is not appropriate, at all, for this application, because they are not rated to have a second valve downstream of them (only wide-open sprinklers or drip systems, that drain when they're done). The auto-fill valve at the OP's pool is that second valve, and even if he used a timer to shut off the sprinkler valve, the pool side of the sprinkler valve would remain under constant pressure, eventually causing it to fail as a backflow preventer, and very likely without him realizing it. Plus, there is no reliable way to test the BFP function of a sprinkler valve.

The reasons a municipality might require a proper BFP valve for a pool fill system are legit.

He's got the right part for the job, he just needs to determine if it's functioning correctly.
At most you'd affect yourself. There is already a BFP at the meter.

As for the valve, they will absolutely close (I've been using a cheap hunter one for nearly a decade on mine). But I'm not understanding where the second downstream valve is coming from (although they will do that also, since most sprinkler installations have a master valve actuated the same way to govern over the individual circuit valves as it is). I was suggesting replacing the ball valve at the pool equipment with an automated.
 
Except there's already a BFP at the meter. So the most that would be contaminated is yourself. Which is why I said it shouldn't be legislated for pool builds or the like. It's like a seatbelt law, and shouldn't exist ('ll give a pass to those requiring it of children, since they likely lack the autonomy to assess their personal risk).

In response to the dirty pool pics, I assure you there is more non-organic concerns IN the municipal supply than there is in an algae growing pool.
Wow, lots to unpack. I'm not sure on which municipality you're basing these "facts," but I can say with some confidence they are not universal truths. I shouldn't guess on the percentage, but I'll go out on a limb and say most residential properties have no such BFP protection, and it's not built into water meters, if that's what you were getting at (I've never heard of that, anyway).

And based on that, it is not unreasonable at all for a municipality to require BFP devices. In fact, they are already a requirement for commercial buildings in many (if not most) cities. I'm referring to California, so I can't speak to the rest of the country. Obviously the OP's city is all over this, too. This is nothing like the seat belt law, which for the most part is intended to protect people too, uh, unwise to protect themselves. No, a requirement for a BFP has much less to do with protecting the individual's water supply, and everything to do with protecting the water supply of his neighbors, possibly for miles around. And, IMO, that is exactly what government is supposed to be doing.

Again, depending on where you live, it's not at all fair to say that a municipal water supply is less safe for humans than the water in a swimming pool. Many (most?) municipalities provide annual water quality reports, but I know from my buddy (who worked at the water provider for one of CA's largest cities) that these water quality tests go on constantly, non-stop. And from his description of them, no pool would pass 'em. He also believes that it is just a matter of time before it is a requirement for all residences to have BFPs, just like it is now for commercial properties. He figures they'll start with new construction. Not sure how they'd handle existing residences. But that's how I know it is not a given that residences or water meters have BFPs, because they mostly don't.

As for the valve, they will absolutely close (I've been using a cheap hunter one for nearly a decade on mine). But I'm not understanding where the second downstream valve is coming from (although they will do that also, since most sprinkler installations have a master valve actuated the same way to govern over the individual circuit valves as it is). I was suggesting replacing the ball valve at the pool equipment with an automated.
I'm not sure what point you're making about a "cheap hunter valve" closing. The type of auto-fill valve the OP has is closed most of the time. It opens when the pool's water level drops. The valve is underwater, somewhere near the pool, and so has no "natural" anti-siphon protection afforded when a valve's outlet is above the waterline. So that's why the need for the BFP upstream of it.

While that auto-fill vale is closed, it's under pressure, and many times (most?) the water line supplying that valve is before the home's pressure regulator, which means it can conceivably be under a lot of pressure. If you put a sprinkler valve upstream of that auto-fill valve, instead of a proper pressure-rated BFP, then that full-on water pressure is constantly applied to the sprinkler valve's anti-siphon components (springs and diaphragms and what not) that are not rated to withstand that level of pressure 24/7. And they will eventually fail. There's a reason a plastic Orbit sprinkler valve costs 17 bucks, and the OP's BFP valve is north of $500 and constructed of brass.

Think about it, those sprinkler valve anti-siphon components are virtually never under real pressure. Their subjected to any at all only when the sprinkler valve is open, and the water is flowing out the other side to sprinklers. Anyway, the point is, a sprinkler valve upstream of that auto-fill valve is not the correct application. And as I mentioned, it can't be tested, so you'd never know if the anti-siphon (BFP) protection was working or not. The fact that you might have had an arrangement like that that is still working proves nothing, and is not the kind of anecdotal advice that is OK to share with the many people that might read this thread (not just the few of us that are contributing to it).

And if you're describing a setup that has a non-pressure rated sprinkler valve upstream of a secondary tier of sprinkler valves, that would also violate the same safety standards. Just because you've seen it somewhere, even many times, doesn't make it OK.

And of course, all of this is otherwise moot, because the OP's city requires the correct part and for it to be inspected. Replacing that part with a sprinkler valve would not only not be a good idea, or safe, but it's not allowed in the OP's case. Which is what inspired my original rebut to your post.

So, again, pardon me for the push back. As I mentioned, I learned all this from a pro that worked for decades at a major municipality in California. He was personally responsible for testing commercial property BFP valves all over the city. The rest of the time he spent monitoring the water quality at the plant that supplied the water to about a million people. I trust what he told me.
 
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So... I asked my ex-water-company-employee buddy to read this thread and weigh in. Just relaying his email (minus a swear word or two). I think I understand this, but at the very least you can see why I rely on him for all things BFP. Perhaps this will help you figure it out.

The OP says it is venting and that's not the best way to think of it. Think of it as relieving pressure. When you look at that picture there are two 45deg pieces sticking up and down. Those are one way check valves.

The first valve has a pressure of no less than 5 pounds. It takes 5 pounds of pressure on the City side to even open that valve to move water through it. At the same time as that valve is opening that first check valve, it is filling and pressurizing the pressure sensing line that puts pressure on the "high" side of the diaphragm for the Pressure Relief Valve (vent on the bottom). What is created is a "Pressure Zone". The spring that holds the PRV open is no more than a 2 lb spring. System pressure should close this at 2 lbs before forcing the #1 open if that makes sense.

On the High side is the back side of Number 1 check forcing it open, and high side of the PRV forcing it closed. On the back side of the zone is of course the Number 2 check valve and the rest of the system whatever that may be. Now to calculate the pressure in the Zone, you merely take the system pressure and subtract the spring pressure of #1 spring (no less than 5 lbs).

So, water passes through #1, through the zone, out #2 check and off to the system.

If water pressure from a pool pump, sprinkler drainage, whatever, causes a spike on the system beyond #2, it will force #2 closed really tight. It still may not leak but the mere act of forcing it to seat most firmly and maybe distorting the metal a bit, can cause the "zone" pressure to overcome the 2 lb spring holding the PRV closed. When this happens, it dumps water until the zone equalizes back to less than 2 lbs of pressure and then seals closed again. If on the city side, the pressure drops, you could see that the pressure holding the PRV closed would drop, the spring would open the valve, pressure would drop in the zone until the 2lbs is equalized again at which time it would close again.

There is no way to test the pressure of the #2 valve because whenever you try to compare the high side and low sides of it, you are messing with the zone and that dumps at 2 lbs so all you can tell is if the valve seals or not.

In summary, if the PRV at the bottom is continuously dumping then there is probably a leaking check valve, probably one. If it's intermittently dumping, then its more likely that there are surges or drops in pressure either before or after the check valve that are causing it to DO ITS JOB BY VENTING AND NOT ALLOWING PRESSURE TO BE HIGHER ON HIS SIDE THAN THE CITY'S.
 
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