Have algae on walls - test shows high TA

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kathyo

0
May 24, 2011
31
Farmers Branch, TX
Pool Size
21000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I live near Dallas, where the water temp in the summer is 85 (and we have a lot of shade on the pool). I slammed the pool early this summer and it looked good. In July we had a leak in the skimmer plumbing & got it repaired. The CYA had to be raised since we added so much water. Again - levels & water looked good. I had been using Walmart bleach (7.5%) and adding acid often. We have a spa which spills into the pool which aerates it some. In the last few weeks we got algae on the walls and steps. I tried to get the chlorine levels up, but can't. My TA is high (140) [it had been consistently around 80-90] and pH has been lower than usual (7.4). Yesterday, in reading on this site, I realized that Walmart has added some "fabric protection" to the bleach so I returned it and bought "Pool Chlorinating Liquid" from Lowes. I don't know if this messed up my numbers or not.

21k gallon plaster pool
TA 140
pH 7.3 (hard to read exact level between 7.2 & 7.5 on test)
Calcium 360
FC & TC 8

Should I further lower the pH to 7.0-7.2 then run the spa jets to speed up the aeration? And after the TA level is corrected, can I fix the pH (either w/ 20 Mule Team or acid depending on the #)? Then once the values are correct, can I slam the pool (with more brushing) to get rid of the algae?

Also - we put in the pool in 2004 and it has not been resurfaced. Can that be part of the problem? I found this site years ago after repeatedly having to drain my pool because of faulty instructions from Leslie's.
 
You have algae and need to SLAM. Print the instructions out, read them three times and GO!

www.troublefreepool.com

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

I would not worry about the TA and the pH at the moment, you need to get at that algae. Let's get that fixed, then we can worry about the TA (which is not a big deal). And, by the way, any pH in the 7s is just fine.

What are you using to test?
 
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kathyo said:
I have a TF-100. I just bought new reagents.
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New York Lol GIF by Late Night with Seth Meyers


Keep us updated! When you are done, we'll walk you through understanding pH and TA...and what you do and do not need to do. Right now, they are not the threat, TA and pH are just fine.

Got any pictures of your paradise? We love pics.:nopic:(not really worthless, we just like pictures!)
 
kathyo said:
I have already brushed when I saw your lastest answer.
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Brush brush brush a lot. Breaks down the biofilm and allows chlorine to kill algae.
kathyo said:
The water is clear, but since the surface is not smooth the algae sticks to it.
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For slam purposes, water is not considered clear if you can see algae, alive or dead.

You are going to want to take that light off and scrub behind (looks like the kind that is removed with one screw at 12 o'clock. Can you confirm this is true?

Do you have a ladder?

NICE POOL!!!
 
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As mentioned above- TA isn’t your issue & doesn’t have anything to do with algae. Low fc does.
You didn’t list your cya level - knowing that is vitally important.

For a successful SLAM Process
you need to continue to MAINTAIN Slam level fc for your cya FC/CYA Levels
as often as possible until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, etc.)
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

SLAM ON 🤩
 
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I may be blind, but I don't see anywhere that OP mentions CYA level. It's impossible to SLAM without knowing the current CYA level, which is likely related to the inability to keep algae at bay.

Algae is a symptom of not keeping the FC and CYA in balance, based on the FC/CYA chart.
If you fall below the minimum, you risk an algae bloom. A SLAM will resolve, but don't overlook the need to avoid the conditions needed for algae, in the first place.
 
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PoolStored said:
Brush brush brush a lot. Breaks down the biofilm and allows chlorine to kill algae.

For slam purposes, water is not considered clear if you can see algae, alive or dead.

You are going to want to take that light off and scrub behind (looks like the kind that is removed with one screw at 12 o'clock. Can you confirm this is true? I'll brush every nook & cranny, but I can't take the light cover off. The water temp is 55 so I'm not getting in the pool. Plus I'm afraid I would be able to get it back on. Our spa light cover started coming off a few years ago (brace was rusting) and it was tricky getting a kludge done that kept it in place.

Do you have a ladder?

NICE POOL!!! Thanks - we bought the old house for the yard and trees - you can always fix the house.
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I'm sorry - I had the CYA written down, but didn't type it in. It is 40. So according to the table, my shock chlorine level is 16. That is what I'm trying to keep.
 
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kathyo said:
I'm sorry - I had the CYA written down, but didn't type it in. It is 40. So according to the table, my shock chlorine level is 16. That is what I'm trying to keep.
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Great! The more often you check and replenish FC with liquid chlorine, the faster it will go. Every 1-2 hours is great! No longer than 4 hours between, if you can hack it.
 
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kathyo said:
I'm sorry - I had the CYA written down, but didn't type it in. It is 40. So according to the table, my shock chlorine level is 16. That is what I'm trying to keep.
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Ok great - how are you chlorinating?
Your minimum FC is 3 during normal operation - you need to treat that like a bright red line that should not be crossed.
 
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I switched from Walmart bleach to Pool Chlorinating Liquid (10%) that I bought at Lowe's. I am brushing & brushing, but noticed that it is harder to get it to come off the walls. The pool will be 20 years old next spring and has not been re-plastered. The surface is not smooth. I'm wondering if it needs to be done. Then again - maybe because I'm 63, I'm just not as strong as I used to be to do it ;-).

My husband's parents had a pool installed in the 70s in south Texas and he said it had never been re-done. I'm not sure of that because he was not living there and wouldn't know. And they moved up here to the Dallas area 10 years ago. I appreciate your opinions on this. Thanks.
IMG_3765.jpg
 
kathyo said:
I switched from Walmart bleach to Pool Chlorinating Liquid (10%) that I bought at Lowe's. I am brushing & brushing, but noticed that it is harder to get it to come off the walls. The pool will be 20 years old next spring and has not been re-plastered. The surface is not smooth. I'm wondering if it needs to be done. Then again - maybe because I'm 63, I'm just not as strong as I used to be to do it ;-).
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I'm sorry you are dealing with this...killing this algae is dependent on breaking the bio-film. Do you have anyone that can help? Even getting in the pool and scrubbing with a smaller brush may help. Not sure on the re-plaster, it may in-fact be needed. However, even folks with old plaster have been successful with SLAM. Good luck, sounds like you are making progress...
 
kathyo said:
My husband's parents had a pool installed in the 70s in south Texas and he said it had never been re-done. I'm not sure of that because he was not living there and wouldn't know. And they moved up here to the Dallas area 10 years ago. I appreciate your opinions on this. Thanks.
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The plaster condition does not create algae however it can make it more difficult to remove because of the roughness to brush and crevasses that algae may hide. Good luck with the SLAM - follow the advice already given. The process does work. Then maintain your FC in the proper range, even during the winter to avoid any return of algae in the future.

Plaster can last anywhere from 10 years on longer depending on what type of plaster was installed and how well the chemistry was maintained. Mine lasted 16 years when I had it replaced. It was not terrible but starting to get soft spots. It was just regular plaster that a previous owner installed when the pool was first constructed.
 
In my opinion, brushing is almost always necessary to clear algae.

In some cases, it helps more than in other cases.

Of course not everyone can brush as much as they would like due to physical limitations.

Maybe get a friend or neighbor to help brush if necessary.
 
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