Closing chemicals

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Ltmdrichardson

Ltmdrichardson

Member
Jun 7, 2020
20
Montana
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
We are closing our pool on our own for the first time. Long story short, our pool wasn’t plumbed correctly for winterization and no one in our town will touch it. Because of the plumbing, we cannot add the closing slam-level chlorine and let it circulate until after we blow out all the lines. We won’t be able to run the pump at all. I know this sounds confusing, but I promise it’s the truth and it cannot be done any other way.

What chemicals should we add and how do we make sure it’s mixed well enough? I’m planning to add liquid chlorine to slam levels, but I’m unsure of polyquat and muriatic acid because of the lack of circulation. The water is cold. Like, below 60° cold.
 
Ltmdrichardson said:
Because of the plumbing, we cannot add the closing slam-level chlorine and let it circulate until after we blow out all the lines. We won’t be able to run the pump at all.
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Then how do you normally chlorinate? It’s no different, just a larger dose. Are you saying your pump isn’t currently functioning?
 
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Mdragger88 said:
Then how do you normally chlorinate? It’s no different, just a larger dose. Are you saying your pump isn’t currently functioning?
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It isn’t because it’s been winterized. It functions as expected when it’s running. What I was trying to communicate in fewer words is that we have to drain a significant amount of water (~8-9K gallons) to get it below the returns, then we have to add 6-7k gallons back after we’ve done all the plugging/blowing out because of the locations of the returns and the fact that we use our auto over as our winter cover. So, it doesn’t make a lot of financial sense to get the winter chemicals all set and circulating (using the pump) only to have to drain 1/3 of the water to winterize, then refill using tap water.

I hope that clarifies the situation.
 
Ltmdrichardson said:
It isn’t because it’s been winterized. It functions as expected when it’s running. What I was trying to communicate in fewer words is that we have to drain a significant amount of water (~8-9K gallons) to get it below the returns, then we have to add 6-7k gallons back after we’ve done all the plugging/blowing out because of the locations of the returns and the fact that we use our auto over as our winter cover. So, it doesn’t make a lot of financial sense to get the winter chemicals all set and circulating (using the pump) only to have to drain 1/3 of the water to winterize, then refill using tap water.

I hope that clarifies the situation.
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Also, we have to blow out and plug the main drains because our pool wasn’t plumbed for winte
Mdragger88 said:
You could use a submersible pump to mix things after the refill. You need some fc asap.
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that’s a good idea. I’ll talk to my husband about it. We have a submersible pump for our pool cover. Could I use that? If so, how long do you think it needs to mix?
 
Yes you can use that pump, I would say a few hours to be certain everything is mixed since it may be on the small side.
Add the liquid chlorine etc. in the stream of the hose just as you would infront of a running return, keeping away from the pool wall & brushing the area afterwards.
 
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Ltmdrichardson said:
So, add chlorine to SLAM levels. Should I add any polyquat 60 or anything else?
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I personally do not. That’s up to you.
If you wish to use polyquat 60 you will want to allow the fc to fall to about 1/2 way between target & slam level for your cya before adding it.
www.google.com

Closing an In Ground Pool

Winterizing a pool is essential for keeping your in-ground pool protected during cold-weather months. This Pool Repair guide will show you how to do it.
www.google.com www.google.com
 

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A question... I have an auto-cover that I use as my winter cover, and in the old days I used to have to drain below the returns and then add water after closing. However, I now use duck plugs and skimmer plates so I no longer need to drain below the returns before closing. I am just wondering if your pool-closing guys are old school. Duck plugs and skimmer plates saved me a ton. I may be off-base, but in case I am not, there are my thoughts.
 
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I found the duck plug to be chintzy and the ice popped the yellow cover, leaving the flimsy duck lips exposed. If I ever had to do it again, I'd use bungee plugs which are more robust.
 
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Ltmdrichardson said:
So, add chlorine to SLAM levels. Should I add any polyquat 60 or anything else?
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I personally would NOT add PQ60, especially in your situation. I believe you’re supposed to run the pump for 24 hours after adding Polyquat, but someone please correct me if I’m wrong! Even if it’s less than 24 hours, you still need to run your pump when adding it. I need to look at the instructions on the bottle that I bought a couple years ago and never used.

Anybody want it? I’ll ship it for free lol
 
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Ltmdrichardson said:
Also, we have to blow out and plug the main drains because our pool wasn’t plumbed for winte

that’s a good idea. I’ll talk to my husband about it. We have a submersible pump for our pool cover. Could I use that? If so, how long do you think it needs to mix?
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You can also take your pool brush and brush things around to mix it.

Running a submersible pump is a lot less manual labor, but brushing helps too.

It will eventually mix in on it's own. What you are trying to avoid is having a large concentrated area of bleach sitting in one spot.

Heck, when you are adding back in the tap water, pour the beach in when you are adding the fresh water, while running the submersible pump, that will mix things all over the place.
 
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