New pool build - first weeks chemical issue

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H

howdy!

Active member
Oct 22, 2021
33
DFW TX
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
Hey folks!
I’m new here and still learning A LOT!

Just got done with a brand new pool build. Pebble tech was shot last weekend. Filled pool up first part of last week. Water seemed clear and all was good while the builder was getting the chemicals balanced.

We did a crash course “pool school” and they tried to get me up to speed and the ins/out of what I need to monitor for the first month until I am able to connect the SWG.

Fast forward to Saturday, I accidentally read wrong amount of chlorine to add!! Was supposed to add 20 oz but accidenlty read the line below for liquid, which was 60 oz or so. (I was using the app the builder recommended - Orenda) Needless to say, I added it and the pool became completely cloudy. That was on Saturday morning. Every day since, it’s gotten a little clear, but I still can’t see the much of the bottom (ranging from 4’-8’ deep). Been 55 hours or so.

From what I read online, I basically added the same amount of chlorine you would add if you wanted to shock the pool or sanitize after a kiddo pooped it it!

My question is, how long should I expect to to stay cloudy? I just did all my tests again using my TFP test kit and here are my results.
 

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A pool should not become cloudy just from adding chlorine, even if you added a little too much. Right now your FC appears to be 1 ppm which is actually very low. Exactly what type of chlorine or bleach did you add? Do you still have a bottle to show us the label?

Also be sure to update your signature with all of your pool and equipment details. It helps tremendously when we reply. See my sig as an example.
 
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Here are a few assumptions I’m making now at this point…

Yes, I see my FC is low. I’m assuming since this is what cause everything to get cloudy so fast, I probably need to hold off on adding much more at this time? I just added 75% of what my last test called for.

Cya is low. But again, knowing that I over did it with my chlorine application, my logic is to keep my cya low to help break down the excessive chlorine quicker???
 
Here is what I added on Saturday morning.
 

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That explains the cloudiness - cal-hypo. I would not add that anymore, especially if your local water is hard. Find a good source for liquid pool chlorine, otherwise use regular (plain) laundry bleach. Those are Sodium Hypochlorite and do not have side effects like some other products. If you can't find pool chlorine and use bleach, make sure it is not splashless or scented. They are the same thing, just pool chlorine is a higher strength. Pour slowly near the return jets. Since the pool has been full for more than 3 days, be sure to increase the FC as noted on the FC/CYA Levels for a pool with a CYA of 30. At this CYA of 30, try to never allow the FC to fall below 3 ppm.

I see you signature details now, thanks! :goodjob:
 
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Thanks for the feedback!
That was the chemical the builder left. Once I’m done with his supply, I’ll buy what you mentioned.

Should I try to add a little mutation acid to help lower my ph and possibly reduce the cloudiness?
 
howdy! said:
Here is what I added on Saturday morning.
Click to expand...
The cal hypo is adding calcium in addition to chlorine. You would be better served to only use liquid chlorine for this first month for chlorinating purposes. LC will not make your water cloudy - even if you add too much.
Now your CH is just over minimum, so using the cal-hypo did help raise the CH but you do not not want to do that long term.
 
howdy! said:
Should I try to add a little mutation acid to help lower my ph and possibly reduce the cloudiness?
Click to expand...
Muriatic acid will help to lower the pH but won't help with the cloudiness if that's from the calcium. That will just take some time. Hopefully the cloudiness is just from that calcium and not algae. Time will tell. But in this new pool, your two best items to have around is the muriatic acid (for the pH) and liquid chlorine (for the FC to prevent algae). Be sure to store the muriatic acid outdoors away from anything else. Keep away from pets & children and also away from anything metal. Keep chlorine somewhere dry & cool like the laundry room.

Never add muriatic acid and liquid chlorine (or bleach) at the "exact same time at the exact same location". Each gets poured slowly near the return jets, so if you separate by a few minutes with good circulation you'll be fine. MA is strong, so be mindful of wind direction (fumes) and splashing.
 
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Thank you for your info. I added regular store bleach and things a looking clearer!

A few more questions….
When trying to record my FC in the app, do I go off of what the double test tube Comparator shows (the one with both pH and Cl?).

Guess I wasn’t sure what chlorine reading that one was for. Did it represent TC or FC?

I also did the chlorine drop test.
- For FC. It took 2 drops. (x.5) = 1.
- Next for my CC. Added 5 drops and still clear. So no CC. = 0

So does that mean I add 1+0 for my TC?
TC =1

Does that sound correct?
 
Don’t worry about TC.
Input FC is 1.0
Input CC is 0.0

Add chlorine per Pool Math app to get to target FC level.

The color comparative method for chlorine is just to give you a range. If it is clear or near clear it is very low and if it is yellow it 5 or higher. It just a quick way to determine if you have any chlorine. It is also helpful if you are testing your tap water as that should be less than 5ppm for chlorine.
 
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