Pool should be filled by morning. Going to test My ph and ta once filled(never tested any water before, should be fun). What order should I add chemicals. SWG isn't installed yet..been moving in all week and had to replace the pool pump. Thanks.
Liner finally went in today. Now onto chemicals.
- Thread starter ButchW
- Start date
Pretty!! Get that puppy filled up 
I estimate it to be about 17,000 gallons, give or take?
I see no mention of a test kit- that's a MUST.
I prefer the TF-ProSalt kit... www.tftestkits.net It will give you all the tests you need with plenty of reagents. Others like the K-2006C, but then also need to add the K-1766 Salt Test to make it equivalent to the TF-ProSalt.
-Start with some CYA in a sock...hung over the edge in front of a return but not touching that pretty new liner. Lets start small going to 40ppm of CYA untll you get the SWG in. So to get 40ppm in you want to use 95 ounces of granular CYA. Start it dissolving, squeeze it now and then.
- As soon as you get that hung, add a full gallon of Liquid Chlorine in the water. That will give you aprox 5ppm of Free Chlorine (FC).
-You'll want to add liquid chlorine daily to maintain a steady level until you get the salt system hooked up and salt added.
Then you want to test your water after a day and tell us these resuts:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA - will probably still be low, don;t panic.
Salt- zero until added
When its time to add salt make sure the salt cell is turned entirely OFF. You won't want to turn it on for 24 hours to allow the salt to dissolve and mix well, brushing it all around.
You'll need aprox 498 pounds of salt to take it up to 3500 ppm salt in the water. That's about 12.5 bags. Solar salt is cheaper, just bigger bits.
While that is going on you should still be continuing to add liquid chlorine daily (based on testing) so that once everything is up and running the SWG will work to *maintian* that FC level.
- Add another dose of CYA in the water, again 95 ounces, to take you up for what the SWG requirements are for CYA. In the sock again.....
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels
PoolMath
Any questions?
Maddie
I estimate it to be about 17,000 gallons, give or take? I see no mention of a test kit- that's a MUST.
I prefer the TF-ProSalt kit... www.tftestkits.net It will give you all the tests you need with plenty of reagents. Others like the K-2006C, but then also need to add the K-1766 Salt Test to make it equivalent to the TF-ProSalt.
-Start with some CYA in a sock...hung over the edge in front of a return but not touching that pretty new liner. Lets start small going to 40ppm of CYA untll you get the SWG in. So to get 40ppm in you want to use 95 ounces of granular CYA. Start it dissolving, squeeze it now and then.
- As soon as you get that hung, add a full gallon of Liquid Chlorine in the water. That will give you aprox 5ppm of Free Chlorine (FC).
-You'll want to add liquid chlorine daily to maintain a steady level until you get the salt system hooked up and salt added.
Then you want to test your water after a day and tell us these resuts:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA - will probably still be low, don;t panic.
Salt- zero until added
When its time to add salt make sure the salt cell is turned entirely OFF. You won't want to turn it on for 24 hours to allow the salt to dissolve and mix well, brushing it all around.
You'll need aprox 498 pounds of salt to take it up to 3500 ppm salt in the water. That's about 12.5 bags. Solar salt is cheaper, just bigger bits.
While that is going on you should still be continuing to add liquid chlorine daily (based on testing) so that once everything is up and running the SWG will work to *maintian* that FC level.
- Add another dose of CYA in the water, again 95 ounces, to take you up for what the SWG requirements are for CYA. In the sock again.....
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels
PoolMath
Any questions?
Maddie
I have the tf-prosalt with smart stir kit.
I'm going to test my cya tomorrow around the 24hour mark. Should I also wait till tomorrow to test my FC level? Or can I do that tonight. Been about 6 hours since I add a gallon of 10%. Also found out my skimmer isn't working. So in the process of figuring out what's wrong with that.
You can test the FC and CC tonight if you want, give you an idea of things. Do the pH too... it won't be changing over the day, I'd think?
Enter your levels into PoolMath so we can help you monitor them.
Enter your levels into PoolMath so we can help you monitor them.
Fc 5 I think
Ph 6.8
TA 70 I think we try again in the AM
Didn't do cc. I retest in the morning along with add borax to get my ph up to 7.6
Ph 6.8
TA 70 I think we try again in the AM
Didn't do cc. I retest in the morning along with add borax to get my ph up to 7.6
Only worry about getting your pH up to the 7s. No need to over do it. There is a risk your pH is lower than 6.8, so using just enough per PoolMath to make it to the 7s and then Re-Test, using a piece of white paper behind the block comparitor to help you see it clearly.
Maddie
Maddie
Ok just retested alittle more accurately
FC 4
PH 6.8
TA 50
CC 0 never turned pink
CYA 40
Plan to get my TA to 70 with baking soda( 5lbs 13 oz from 50 to 70).PH to 7.6 with borax(from 6.8 to 7.6 pool math says 8lbs 9oz. I'll do alittle less so I don't over shoot it).
Where should I go with my FC and CYA at this point?
FC 4
PH 6.8
TA 50
CC 0 never turned pink
CYA 40
Plan to get my TA to 70 with baking soda( 5lbs 13 oz from 50 to 70).PH to 7.6 with borax(from 6.8 to 7.6 pool math says 8lbs 9oz. I'll do alittle less so I don't over shoot it).
Where should I go with my FC and CYA at this point?
Please... go easy on the pH rise with Borax. Go to 7.2 or so. If you have any kids swimming and splashing, or any water features your pH will rise on its own in no time.
I'd just take the TA up to 6O and wait and see how your pH does with it there.
Maddie
I'd just take the TA up to 6O and wait and see how your pH does with it there.
Maddie
I did 7lbs of borax to see where it settles in. Won't have anyone in it till Monday most likely. Should I add baking soda to raise the TA or will the borax also raise the TA along with the PH?
The Borax will raise the TA slightly. If you go messing with the TA too much you'll find you're chasing your tail between pH and TA.
A higher TA "pulls" the pH up..... no need to speed that up too fast, eh?
Maddie
A higher TA "pulls" the pH up..... no need to speed that up too fast, eh?
Maddie
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 3,100
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Saturn94
Bronze Supporter
- Mar 11, 2015
- 1,864
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
7# of borax in 20k gallons will raise TA about 11ppm.
TA would be the very last thing I would adjust, only if needed, since other chems can affect it.
Welcome Butch, just had to say, I'm not normally a fan of liners, but that is spectacular! That border is so fun! Please post a pic when it's filled up.
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,581
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Keep CYA about 40 and FC near the top of the recommended ranges on the FC/CYA Levels. When you get the SWG going you can push that CYA up to about 70 or so, since the SWG is constantly adding FC and keeping the residual from falling too low.
Just retested and cya is 50 so going to add more liquid chlorine to get be to the top of the fc/cya chart going to shoot for for 7 FC
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,581
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Never let it get below 4, brush / vacuum weekly, and you should be algae-free.