Difficult plumbing repair!

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AZPoolDad

AZPoolDad

0
May 14, 2013
54
Okay smart people, I need advice. See photo below. I’m replumbing the pressure side after pump due to a new variable speed pump as well as some more long-standing leaks I’m tired of patching. I’m replacing a stuck brass gate value, too, and that’s my issue. It was originally plumbed in to provide a diversion for running water through pool propane heater. I screwed the old one out (the two T’s have treads created by Sched 80 nipples. But how can I fit the cut riser back into bottom of the T? (The new T is just dry fitted for illustration purposes. Thanks in advance!!!

DC2B5ED3-EC59-4045-9B85-2D99C43F5305.jpeg
 
I didn't pick the brass valve, the original pool installers did or the previous owner of my house did when he did a repair (not sure who). I'm simply trying to replace an old rusty gate valve with a new gate valve. Would you recommend I cut back even further and install a Jandy? The T "became" threaded when the installers glued a threaded nipple into the ends of the opposing T's. I'm game to do anything to solve this. I will have to google "slip Tee" to see what you are referring to, thanks. (Also, was the pipe dope comment sarcasm, or did I do something wrong by doping the threads?)
 
Okay, I see that a "slip Tee" isn't anything special. It's just a Tee that does not have any threads, correct? But I'm still not sure what you mean by "why not just use a slip Tee and cut the nipple to the length you need for the tee to line up with the lower pipe?" I thought that is what I was attempting to do. But once I glue the Tee into the Sched 80 nipple (already cut correctly), how do I fit and glue the riser pipe below? That's the part I don't understand. I don't do this kind of stuff regularly. :)
 
once you get the lengths correct, you will glue both at the same time.. first the bottom into the tee.. then there should be enough flex in the pipe to slide it into place.. you may have to dig out the vertical pipe a little to give it some play..

ya know.. I'm looking closer at your pipes.. are those sch 40 gray electrical conduits that they put in for water? or some kind of ABS drain pipe? Seeing black on the end of the cut pipe looks dang unusual.
 
mguzzy said:
once you get the lengths correct, you will glue both at the same time.. first the bottom into the tee.. then there should be enough flex in the pipe to slide it into place.. you may have to dig out the vertical pipe a little to give it some play..

ya know.. I'm looking closer at your pipes.. are those sch 40 gray electrical conduits that they put in for water? or some kind of ABS drain pipe? Seeing black on the end of the cut pipe looks dang unusual.
Click to expand...
Oh, yeah, the outside of the riser pipe was painted beige but I see now where it is cut it is black or gray. No idea if that is Schedule 80 or something else! It's been like that since I bought the house. I will hope there is enough flex in the pipe to come into the bottom of the Tee. That's what started this whole thread! Yikes.
 
If I understand what you are attempting to do, I would remove the new gate valve and use a three way Jandy valve in place of the tee. That will give you a little more wiggle room to get everything lined up as well as using a better valve for future serviceability.

And to add to my recommendation, I would cut off the threaded 90 elbow and build out from the Jandy valve so that you have two vertical pipes to glue to rather than try to fit the valve between a vertical and horizontal pipe, which will be a lot harder to accomplish.
 
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This is how everything looked before the replumbing job. There was a single speed motor, now a variable speed motor on same pump. Had to move the sand filter about six inches to the left to make room for the taller motor. The labelling was just for my own shopping list.

Screen Shot 2021-06-23 at 9.27.47 PM.png
 
Whoever designed the original plumbing basically butted two Tees together with a brass valve in between, so I'm not sure I can fit a Jandy in there. EDIT: Okay, I see you are recommending removing the brass valve, making it just straight pipe, and replacing the Tee to the left of the current brass valve with a three-way Jandy. I will look into it and THANK YOU for the pointers and advice!
 
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Okay, don't know if anyone is still reading this long thread (!) but here is the full picture of the pressure side, and the difficulty in replacing the brass gate valve. I just went out and bought a PVC ball valve to keep things simpler, but since the top line is Tee to Valve to Tee to Tee to Three-way Jandy to Compression fitting, I'm thinking I have to remove the ENTIRE manifold since there is no open pipe to glue onto. Suggestions?
 

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