Clear water ... until I brush!

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Dilution test first. The CYA scale isn't equidistant. What you see as just below 100 and might call 102 could well be 120. So follow Step 8 here.

I would be wary of adding any algae products. You don't know what's in it. If it has potassium monopersulfate, it will mess with the CC test. If it's got metals, it can cause staining.

If you don't want to drain over the weekend, run it up to shock level tonight and brush it until your arms get rubbery and your lower back aches. Enlist the children to help. Wait -- test pH and fix that first if it needs it, because you won't be able to later. Then in the morning, it should be settled some and you can vacuum it up. Sneak up on it and let the vacuum pull it in. Move too fast and you'll just create a wave that will push it away. By morning the FC will be well below shock level, so as long as you can see the drain, it'll be swimmable, Encourage the kids to scrub while they're swimming.

After the heat wave passes, then you can start draining.
 
Ok, so the dilution test I've just completed = 140
pH = 7.8

And there appears to be a little discrepancy on how to conduct the CYA test:
  • TFP Site states (#3) "Cap and then shake the mixing bottle for 30 seconds".
  • Within the TF-100 kit, it states "Mix, then wait at least 30 seconds. Shake once more".
    • When I read this, it says to me shake it up, then leave it for 30s and then shake again.
It may not make too much of a difference but for a complete beginner with these tests, making such tests consistent would help matters.
 
Last edited:
bnoeafk said:
Ok, so the dilution test I've just completed = 140
pH = 7.8

And there appears to be a little discrepancy on how to conduct the CYA test:
  • TFP Site states (#3) "Cap and then shake the mixing bottle for 30 seconds".
  • Within the TF-100 kit, it states "Mix, then wait at least 30 seconds. Shake once more".
    • When I read this, it says to me shake it up, then leave it for 30s and then shake again.
It may not make too much of a difference but for a complete beginner with these tests, making such tests consistent would help matters.
Click to expand...

140 is very high. TFP recommends you don't go over 60 for a regular pool, 80 for salt water.
 
@Jeff J. A high CYA typically means old water, correct? That doesn't surprise me, we've been here for nigh on 10 years and we've not changed the water (multiple years of drought prevented us from doing so), let alone how long it'd been before we purchased the house.

@Richard320 : Shock applied. Arms sufficiently jellified ... I think I could give Mr Tickle a run for his money. I take it that with the shock in and rigorous brushing, you're trying to displace the algae from pool surfaces and mix with the agitated highly chlorinated water to kill it; then, once settled, in the morning the idea is to slowly suck it up from the pool floor into the filter? Question at this point: would I expect to see green algae on the floor, would it be black or grey or white or potentially transparent? I've always wondered about this - brush, then vacuum immediately; vacuum then brush immediately; brush then vacuum the following day? Just trying to set expectations for myself in the morning...
 
DoubleEcho said:
I pick up 7-8 bottles of the Pool Essentials every 2 weeks when I go grocery shopping and use about 1/2 a bottle a day.

One tip - check the label to make sure you're getting the "freshest" chlorine based on the born on date. Easy way on the Pool Essentials bottles is to check the 3 digit date (uses Julian calendar date). For example, when I picked some up a couple days ago they had the top rack with a 150 number on the label the 2 bottom racks were 174.

150 - Born on May 29th
174 - Born on June 22nd

Since chlorine degrades over time get the freshest bottle. I keep mine in my basement where it's dark and cool instead of the hot garage. Every other day I just grab a bottle and I keep the "oldest" ones up front so I use them up first.

How to Read "Born-On" Date for Liquid Chlorine

Hi All, I am having trouble finding/deciphering the dates on the liquid chlorine I buy. I usually buy the 10% from either Home Depot (HSX brand) or mostly from Lowes (Kemtek). Chlorine seems pretty expensive here in Las Vegas. Walmart concentrated regular bleach (8%) was like $2.75 a gallon...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Great tips - thanks for that and will keep it in mind
 
bnoeafk said:
@Jeff J. A high CYA typically means old water, correct? That doesn't surprise me, we've been here for nigh on 10 years and we've not changed the water (multiple years of drought prevented us from doing so), let alone how long it'd been before we purchased the house.

@Richard320 : Shock applied. Arms sufficiently jellified ... I think I could give Mr Tickle a run for his money. I take it that with the shock in and rigorous brushing, you're trying to displace the algae from pool surfaces and mix with the agitated highly chlorinated water to kill it; then, once settled, in the morning the idea is to slowly suck it up from the pool floor into the filter? Question at this point: would I expect to see green algae on the floor, would it be black or grey or white or potentially transparent? I've always wondered about this - brush, then vacuum immediately; vacuum then brush immediately; brush then vacuum the following day? Just trying to set expectations for myself in the morning...
Click to expand...
It'll probably look greyish.

I always brush the day before I vacuum, or after I vacuum. Immediately before just stirs things up.
 
bnoeafk said:
A high CYA typically means old water, correct? That doesn't surprise me, we've been here for nigh on 10 years and we've not changed the water (multiple years of drought prevented us from doing so), let alone how long it'd been before we purchased the house.
Click to expand...
Not really.. you would be amazed how fast CYA can build up in a pools water using pucks. I've seen new pool owners who are in their second or third year show up here with high CYA... so it can happen to young water too.

Have you posted a full set of numbers yet? I wanna see what the chem levels of the old water of yours is...;)
 
20200711_073824x0.25.jpg Day 2
Well, as you can see, the pool looks fantastic but as we all know, they can be deceiving. I've not vacuumed yet, but have performed all my calculations as @mguzzy requested:
Screenshot_20200711-073654x0.50.png Please note: CYA results - I performed a standard CYA test and the result was over 100. So, I then completed a diluted CYA test ... and the dot never disappeared all the way up to the top of the tube. Therefore I recorded the result as 100, but wasn't sure as to why the diluted CYA test didn't perform the way that it did last night.

I'm going to perform a vacuum right now (although it's difficult to suck up the dead algae considering I don't see anything) but I'm taking everyone's advice and do as I'm told.

FC: within limits but I also shocked last night, so that would make sense?
pH: elevated just outside of limits (am using the electronic pH tester - although, in the interests of full disclosure, I didn't calibrate it after I received it yesterday)
TA: crazy high, I see it's related to the slightly elevated pH.
CH: crazy high, apparently 48% of my water needs to be replaced
CYA: bogus result IMHO today considering the diluted CYA result didn't actually give me a result.
 
bnoeafk said:
View attachment 152213 Day 2
Well, as you can see, the pool looks fantastic but as we all know, they can be deceiving. I've not vacuumed yet, but have performed all my calculations as @mguzzy requested:
View attachment 152214 Please note: CYA results - I performed a standard CYA test and the result was over 100. So, I then completed a diluted CYA test ... and the dot never disappeared all the way up to the top of the tube. Therefore I recorded the result as 100, but wasn't sure as to why the diluted CYA test didn't perform the way that it did last night.

I'm going to perform a vacuum right now (although it's difficult to suck up the dead algae considering I don't see anything) but I'm taking everyone's advice and do as I'm told.

FC: within limits but I also shocked last night, so that would make sense?
pH: elevated just outside of limits (am using the electronic pH tester - although, in the interests of full disclosure, I didn't calibrate it after I received it yesterday)
TA: crazy high, I see it's related to the slightly elevated pH.
CH: crazy high, apparently 48% of my water needs to be replaced
CYA: bogus result IMHO today considering the diluted CYA result didn't actually give me a result.
Click to expand...

The CYA test is tricky. You're supposed to have your back to the sun, hold the tube at waist level, and just glance at the tube. If you stare at it, you will probably see the dot.
 

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Everyone, thank you. It's so reassuring that there's those out there who'll pass on their knowledge and experience.

Using PoolMath and making me accountable to the maintenance, I see that I've not entered a backwash or filter clean. TBH I used to use the pooltime app, but PoolMath is much more indepth. The last time I backwashed was about 6 weeks ago, filter clean about 3 months ago. Considering that it could be a few days before I can think about draining, I thought about the following:
  1. Perform a complete filter clean (which by it's nature, would negate performing a backwash)
  2. Perform daily tests
Would that be advisable?
 
If the pressure isn't up in the filter, why bother backwashing it?

The CYA testing is what has me concerned. If it was cloudy enough to obscure the dot at 100, then mixing 50/50 pool/tap with the R-0013 should get you to 50ish, not less than 20. So the initial test was done wrong, or the dilution test was done wrong. You need to know what it is for real, or you cannot say that the FC is in normal range. So first get your sample together. If messing with tiny little vials doesn;t work for you, get a glean glass/jar/bowl and a kitchen measuring cup. Half pool, half tap. Mix it good. Then use that sample to fill teh CYA mixing bottle to the halfway mark and proceed as normal. Double your result.

Also the pH test should be done either with the drops or after calibrating the digital tester, because pH in range is a must to have swimmers in the pool.

The CH is not outrageous. Mine sits around there quite often. If you're doing that test manually, you're probably reading falsely high. My CH dropped 200 ppm just by switching to a speedstir. But if you're replacing some water to reduce CYA, you'll lose some CH (but not as muchpercentage-wise as CYA, because the replacement water will have some CH in it)
 
Screenshot_20200711-073654x0.50.png@Richard320 ... you're 100% correct, the dilution test was incorrectly performed. Re-reading it now, I filled 50% pool+50% tap water ... and then used THAT in the dot tube, instead of pouring half away and then re-filling up to the top of the label with R-0013... I realize that now. Adopted the Dopey avatar (as opposed to Grumpy) for that ...

So, revised CYA value = 140
 
bnoeafk said:
FC: within limits but I also shocked last night, so that would make sense?
pH: elevated just outside of limits (am using the electronic pH tester - although, in the interests of full disclosure, I didn't calibrate it after I received it yesterday)
TA: crazy high, I see it's related to the slightly elevated pH.
CH: crazy high, apparently 48% of my water needs to be replaced
CYA: bogus result IMHO today considering the diluted CYA result didn't actually give me a result.
Click to expand...

FC is essentially at the minimum required to keep your algae from getting any worse but won’t make a lot of headway to fight it.
PH - as said before don’t trust that number unless you can replicate it with a drop test or calibrate the probe.
TA: High but all that means is that your pH is going to drift up. Don’t drive yourself crazy trying to chase some “ideal” TA number. It will fall as you add acid to combat the pH drift. The “ideal” TA number for your pool is whatever number keeps your pH stable. That could be higher or lower than the recommendation.
CH: high but not unmanageable. Typical for your geographic area. Drain and refill to lower CYA will help to lower this as well.
 
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