We recently moved to a property with a salt-water pool. We were fortunate enough to find this website that has helped us tremendously after a few frustrating (and expensive) weeks trying to get help from the pool store. We recently completed a SLAM which did an amazing job clearing up the water. After finishing the SLAM, we let our chlorine level drop on it's own and turned on the SWG when it got down to 6 ppm chlorine. However, our chlorine level has continued to drop. Today it was down to 2 despite the SWG being set to 100%. We were told the SWG is 3 years old and understand they don't last all that long so we're assuming it needs replaced. We currently have a Hayward Turbo Cell-15 but wanted some more feedback before making a purchase. If spending a little more now means it will last longer, we would prefer to do that. Also, at what point does the control box for the SWG need replaced? Thank you for your help!
Replacing SWG
- Thread starter Rjhauswald
- Start date
Welcome to TFP! Rather than assume, grab a sample of water directly from a return and test it for chlorine. Your signature doesn't include a test kit, so hopefully you aren't relying on test strips. CYA level? While the usual advice is to avoid pool $tores, some can test swcg cells to make sure. A little diagnosis can save a LOT of cash. A quick search on the site can find many suggestions on which direction to go in. Is the cell clean? Cleaning deposits off correctly can restore a clogged cell. What is the condition of your water? I'm sure others with an intimate knowledge of the T-15 will chime in.
Yes, we have a test kit. We purchased the Taylor K-2006 with FAS-DPD and I have been monitoring it closely while SLAMing and as the chlorine has steadily dropped. Our CYA is 70 and the cell was inspected about 3 weeks ago. It was clean then. The water looks very good:
FC 2
CC 0.5
pH 7.3
TA 177
Salt 3200
CYA 70
Our numbers were way off a few weeks ago but after finding this site and doing the SLAM it has help tremendously. We plan to gradually decrease the TA as the pH increases but the water looks very good. I added some bleach today to get the FC back up. I think we will probably be taking the cell in to get tested next.
FC 2
CC 0.5
pH 7.3
TA 177
Salt 3200
CYA 70
Our numbers were way off a few weeks ago but after finding this site and doing the SLAM it has help tremendously. We plan to gradually decrease the TA as the pH increases but the water looks very good. I added some bleach today to get the FC back up. I think we will probably be taking the cell in to get tested next.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What are the diagnostic readings from the box?
What is the actual salinity as tested by a good test kit like the K-1766?
What are the diagnostic readings from the box?
What is the actual salinity as tested by a good test kit like the K-1766?
Hi rj,
Your SWG is only rated for 15K gallons And your pool is 18K per your sig. It may be very likely that your SWG is to small for your pool and cannot keep up with the FC demand.
In addition to the SWG being set to 100% output, are you running the pump 24/7?
We typically recommend a SWG be rated at least 1.5x the pool volume, and preferably 2x. If you are considering replacing the cell, you should go with one rated for 40K. you would not have to run the pump as much to keep up the FC and your cell would last much longer.
Its not uncommon to see folks getting 7+ years out of their cells by oversizing them.
Your SWG is only rated for 15K gallons And your pool is 18K per your sig. It may be very likely that your SWG is to small for your pool and cannot keep up with the FC demand.
In addition to the SWG being set to 100% output, are you running the pump 24/7?
We typically recommend a SWG be rated at least 1.5x the pool volume, and preferably 2x. If you are considering replacing the cell, you should go with one rated for 40K. you would not have to run the pump as much to keep up the FC and your cell would last much longer.
Its not uncommon to see folks getting 7+ years out of their cells by oversizing them.
The cell is: 3E15321
I found a couple numbers on the box:
AQ-RITE-X280 and 5A0511-1026383
It’s a Mineral Springs box. We originally purchased all the mineral springs stuff but after reading about it returned the weekly renewal bags. Our plan is to treat it like a normal salt water pool and monitor it. The box says inspect cell and check minerals. It says our minerals are 2200 but I don’t think that changed even after adding 80# of salt. We have been running the pump 24/7.
The only salt test I currently have is a test strip, I have also had it tested at 2 different pool stores (before we realized they weren’t Really helping us). But our salt has always tested in the normal range since adding the salt. I will look into getting the K-1766.
I found a couple numbers on the box:
AQ-RITE-X280 and 5A0511-1026383
It’s a Mineral Springs box. We originally purchased all the mineral springs stuff but after reading about it returned the weekly renewal bags. Our plan is to treat it like a normal salt water pool and monitor it. The box says inspect cell and check minerals. It says our minerals are 2200 but I don’t think that changed even after adding 80# of salt. We have been running the pump 24/7.
The only salt test I currently have is a test strip, I have also had it tested at 2 different pool stores (before we realized they weren’t Really helping us). But our salt has always tested in the normal range since adding the salt. I will look into getting the K-1766.
The t cell-15 is a 40k gallon rated cell.
As stated before, draw a sample directly from a return and test it for chlorine. It should be significantly higher than the rest of the pool water when the cell is producing chlorine.
Also do an overnight loss test. IMO, the best way to verify something is not growing in the pool.
As stated before, draw a sample directly from a return and test it for chlorine. It should be significantly higher than the rest of the pool water when the cell is producing chlorine.
Also do an overnight loss test. IMO, the best way to verify something is not growing in the pool.
The cell was made at the end of 2015. So, it's not even 4 years old.
The box is from 2005.
What are all of the numbers when you push the little black button?
Check all of the numbers, then move the switch to off for a minute then back to auto and recheck all the diagnostic readings.
Note: You have a basic Hayward Aquarite. It's a regular salt system. Forget about all of the "mineral" stuff.
The box is from 2005.
What are all of the numbers when you push the little black button?
Check all of the numbers, then move the switch to off for a minute then back to auto and recheck all the diagnostic readings.
Note: You have a basic Hayward Aquarite. It's a regular salt system. Forget about all of the "mineral" stuff.
Here are the numbers I got from pushing the little black button:
2200
87
32.2
0.00
99P
0
AL-0
r 1.59
t-15
I turned the system off for a minute then when I turned it back on it indicated it was generating sanitizer the numbers changed briefly then returned to the numbers above and the indicator lights for check minerals and inspect cell came back on. I also checked the chlorine at the return at the FC is at 5 ppm at the return and at other areas in the pool. Note, our chlorine was 2 yesterday so I added bleach with the target for 5. I have done the OCLT since the SLAM and the chlorine was stable.
2200
87
32.2
0.00
99P
0
AL-0
r 1.59
t-15
I turned the system off for a minute then when I turned it back on it indicated it was generating sanitizer the numbers changed briefly then returned to the numbers above and the indicator lights for check minerals and inspect cell came back on. I also checked the chlorine at the return at the FC is at 5 ppm at the return and at other areas in the pool. Note, our chlorine was 2 yesterday so I added bleach with the target for 5. I have done the OCLT since the SLAM and the chlorine was stable.
The circuit board in the box is a newer replacement.
2200....Average Salinity (Default display)
87..........Temperature
32.2........Volts
0.00.......Amps
99P........Percent Setting
0...........Instant Salinity. (Has a - in front)
AL-0.......Product brand
r 1.59.......Software revision
t-15...........T-cell type.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto. Go to instant salinity. It will start high and scroll down to a stable number. See what number it stops on before it goes back to 0.
If it changes back to the default display before it reaches a stable number, push the button to get back to the number before it goes back to zero.
2200....Average Salinity (Default display)
87..........Temperature
32.2........Volts
0.00.......Amps
99P........Percent Setting
0...........Instant Salinity. (Has a - in front)
AL-0.......Product brand
r 1.59.......Software revision
t-15...........T-cell type.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto. Go to instant salinity. It will start high and scroll down to a stable number. See what number it stops on before it goes back to 0.
If it changes back to the default display before it reaches a stable number, push the button to get back to the number before it goes back to zero.
If the cell is definitely a T-15 and the actual salinity is definitely 3,200, then I would say that the cell is bad.
I’m certain the cell is a T-15. I just ordered the k-1766 test kit. I’ll check the salinity with that before proceeding with purchasing a new cell. Is the T-15 a good SWG? If we do need to replace, we need to decide if we stick with that or is there something better out there?
I tested our salt level with the k-1766 test kit. Salt level is at 3000. Unfortunately I think we’ll have to replace our SWG
Looks like a bad cell.
Usually, they last about 5 to 7 years, but they can fail earlier, especially if the cell is run a lot or acid washed frequently.
Usually, they last about 5 to 7 years, but they can fail earlier, especially if the cell is run a lot or acid washed frequently.