Water flows into the front and out the back. There should be arrows printed on the header.

There are two valves that can bypass the heater. A two way and a three way.

I understand how the valves work. The part that says Closed matches a gate in the valve. So, the center arrow points to the closed line.
 
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The heater is not bypassed right now. Sorry, but I do not know how else to tell you this. The valve handles are open when they are 90 degrees to the direction of the flow of the pipe and not like a regular valve. see attached.
 

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I understand how the valves work. You have (3) two-way valves and (1) three-way valve.

The current configuration looks correct. However, you said that ALL valves were open during heater firing.

In any case, the three way valve can have the gate pointing down, like it is now, or it can point up, in which case the line to the heater is open, but water will go down the vertical line and not through the heater.

[Edit] Looking more closely, I see that the three way valve goes to waste. I thought that it went to the pool.
[End edit]

Is the configuration in the picture exactly how it was every time that the heater fired?

Did you verify flow on the flow meter every time before you fired the heater?

Are you sure that the chemistry was correct from initial startup to today?

Do you have chemistry readings documented?

I would suggest that you get an independent evaluation of the situation from a service person to see if they can verify if the heat exchanger is scaled.
 
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I understand how the valves work. You have (3) two-way valves and (1) three-way valve.

The current configuration looks correct. However, you said that ALL valves were open during heater firing.

In any case, the three way valve can have the gate pointing down, like it is now, or it can point up, in which case the line to the heater is open, but water will go down the vertical line and not through the heater.

[Edit] Looking more closely, I see that the three way valve goes to waste. I thought that it went to the pool.
[End edit]

Is the configuration in the picture exactly how it was every time that the heater fired?

Did you verify flow on the flow meter every time before you fired the heater?

Thanks for the responses. Yes, the heater was bypassed for over 2 weeks and the valves were opened to the heater and the bypass closed and flowed freely for several days before turning on the heater. The heater would not fire without water in it anyway due to the pressure switch not being closed... I have been reading review after review online and these Hayward heaters appear to be some real JUNK! I may just tell them to forget it. They are wanting 1300.00 to fix it and from what I am reading, everyone is saying the same things about them. Junk!
 
I think that it's either due to improper chemistry at startup or the valves were not set correctly during operation of the heater.

If the heat exchanger is scaled, it's easy enough to verify.

If it's not scaled, then I would have to suspect that the valves were not set correctly during operation of the heater.

The heater can fire with no water flow because it uses a pressure switch and not a flow switch.

Also note that the heater needs at least 40 gpm. If the flow was less, that could cause problems.
 
It worked but threw out LO at around 90 degrees and now it is doing it 74 or around 70. Hayward is just assuming it is the heat exchanger since they have replaced the main board and all the limit switches and sensors and they do not like the temp rise in the exchanger- more than 50 degrees above where it should be ... they want to replace the heat exchanger for around 1,600.00 and the kicker is the unit is only 2 months old... bypassed for about a month and introduced to the pool around a month later...
 
A heater can scale up in a month under extreme conditions.

Plaster startup is a time where the chemistry has to be carefully controlled or the pH can go super high.

Can you see any scale in the tubes?

Is the internal bypass working?
 
Internal bypass was replaced as part of the troubleshooting by the warranty center. See photo attached of tube
 

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How are you measuring the 50 degree rise?

Is it still overheating with good flow and the valves set correctly?

Have you had an independent service person evaluate the problem?
 
How are you measuring the 50 degree rise?

Is it still overheating with good flow and the valves set correctly?

Have you had an independent service person evaluate the problem?


Hayward contracted warranty center measured it... yes... I have raised so much heck that they are now offering to buy it back and pick it up...
 
Jeff,
If Hayward is willing to pay full price for the heater and pick up, GO FOR IT !!! This tells me that they know they have a problem and you have worn them out and they have no more oil for your [legitimate] squeakiness.

Next, I would never buy anything from any pool company that has not had it in the field for 2-3 yrs minimum. Anything new is a total Crud shoot and until the kinks are ironed-out by the real customers, their labs will never emulate true field experience. Whatever heater you buy, it has to work so go w something that is proven and solid.

Finally, your chemistries would have to be massively off for any exchanger to be scaled in 1 month, and this unit was not even integrated or used for 1 of the 2 months. It's a real simple thing to pull the heat-exchanger and empirically determine if it has any degree of scale to cause the time-outs you've had. Hayward's default is scale bc they know the design is bad. If not, they would have checked that a LONG TIME AGO. Take the money and buy the brand the Forum recommends and go w a proven workhorse...the less bells/whistles means less to fail and invest in a unit that has been known for success. Yes, a 400K will take longer than a 500K, but it needs to work, period.

To conclude, I'd like to hire you to protest to Hayward my EcoStar[less] VSP3400 pump and have them reimburse me fully, and I'd even take it back to them. :)

Good luck and keep us posted,
tstex
 
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