Recent content by subslug

Another cheaper option might be a Mec-o-Matic pump. Their tubes are a breeze to replace and a lot cheaper. I've bought them from a place called Novatech in the past but, I have no affiliation with them.

Cold water?

In my experience the worst thing I ever had to deal with was the one time my boss decided to dye our pools green for St Patty's day. Sure the label said it was 100% safe for plaster pools but what it didn't explain is how it attaches to the grids of a DE filter...and stays there....until the...

You might be able to check into a distributor like Univar but that might require you buy in larger quantities. I have bought 12% in gallon sized jugs from them before. Obviously the more you buy the cheaper it is. Best option is to buy it in 55 gallon drums but.... you don't want to store this...

The TR100 takes 150lbs of pea gravel and 450lbs of sand OR just 600lbs of sand and no pea gravel if you want. Honestly, I would just use good old fashioned filter sand and no gravel. Zeosand has always been more trouble than it's worth......for me anyway.

I find ORP controllers to be a constant battle. They're a fact of life for me but, anyone who thinks putting in an ORP to help automate their system is going to make their life easier has a rude awakening ahead of them. We've upgraded to ORP probes with gold tips and it helps a lot but it's...

Just an FYI..... The latest Code from the state of Texas clearly mandates a 0 ppm level of CYA for indoor pools and a 50 ppm max for outdoor commercial/public pools. Obviously this varies from state to state. My point being, everyone should follow the guidelines for your state or city above...

when you convert from Bromine, I'm pretty sure it's a must to drain the pool first. Maybe someone who's dealt with this can verify but, I've always been warned about going from Bromine to using chlorine....salt water system included.

Did not know that so, not plaster dissolving then for sure. I would probably super chlorinate and maybe leave your pump running overnight. See if that helps.

Assuming your water temp is about 85 F (just guessing) then your Saturation index is about -0.80 which is pretty far up on the scale as being aggressive (corrosive) I'm not aware of a low Calcium level causing cloudy water directly but I might focus on bringing it up some if possible. Your...

This cloudiness might not even be due to your chemistry, maybe it's filter related? None of the tests you've noted seem terribly out of line with what they should be. FC of 4.2 is more than high enough. I would have a look at the Calcium level if I had cloudiness that I couldn't explain. After...

I'm tossing my name in the hat for the Android version. I see that it's a work in progress! I'm able to use the web version on the phone though so all is not lost thankfully. The pool calculator is an awesome tool. =) You made it top of the list in Aquatics Magazine's list.

I've seen this on some of our pools with SWGs and I assumed it's just the chlorine gas being injected into the pool. I'm sure there's a much more technical reason for it but basically it's just your SWG doing it's job, unless it's clouding you pool up. Then it might be an air leak or something...

I started this out last night by adding 3 gallons of the liquid stabilizer to this pool as per the calculator. I'll be back at that location tomorrow and I'll see where I stand as far as CYA level goes. I may go and see if I can find a more comprehensive CYA test kit as this isn't something we...

Thanks Jason At the most I'm going to try and maintain a 30 CYA level. I had actually tried to follow some advice from chem geek one time and added CYA to another of my facilities to try his theory on lowering my CC levels...for whatever reason I could never reach the 30ppm level we were trying...