Recent content by spishex

There's an in-line fuse in this heater (you'll notice a bulge the size of a small fuse in the middle of one of the wires). Track that down and make sure it's not blown. I don't have any info on the wiring to the motor, unfortunately. From the wording in the manual it sounds like a convertible...

The valve closest to the heater is just a bypass that allows excess water to go around the heater. As long as the heater is operating properly then it's fine as is (open), but if you start to get any overheating or waterflow issues with the heater you may want to close that valve. The valve in...

This is a problem with your airflow or the switch itself. Check to make sure the fan is coming on properly and that it's intake/exhaust are not obstructed. Be sure the blower pressure switch tubing is not broken or crimped. When the fan is on you can check for continuity across the blower...

Both Pentair and Zodiac make replacement booster pumps for the Letro and Polaris cleaner lines. The Polaris PB4 is the most common around here but the Halcyon is a little easier to service.

The two valves in connected to the heater outlet look like they control two different return flows to the pool. One is on, one is off. Do you have any water features or a cleaner port in the wall? The valve in front of the pump is a three-way valve. There's a gate on it opposite the handle...

If it's just standing still in the strainer then the issue is hydraulic (vs. an air leak which could cause the pump to lose prime when the suction head was increased). Any chance you could post a picture of your equipment setup?

When you ran it as described did you check the cleaner line to see if you felt suction there? If there's none then the line is dead or plugged and I'd be comfortable capping it off; if you feel strong suction then there's water going somewhere and you'd want to further investigate.

Don't have one on hand but the dimensions I see online have it at 8.8" long. I would have guessed 8" so that seems right to me.

Short of welding there's no great solution, and usually one pinhole means many more to follow so replacement makes more sense at that point.

The odds of that crack just happening to form where it is most vulnerable to external contact are too high. If it wasn't hit with the bolt I imagine someone braced something on top of those cross members. Maybe they were tightening a fitting, cutting a board, hammering something, who knows...

Are you in the US? Perhaps POOLS is just a rebranded product. The skimmer looks a lot like a Sta-Rite U3. The p/n for that weir is 08650-0022. Does your lid look like this one?

Re: Pool Pressure not going down even after getting new cart If you've got in-floor returns the fluctuation is normal. As the valve directs water from zone to zone the pressure can change. Does your pressure gauge go all the way down to zero with the pump off?

Does the pump lose prime and start pulling air when this happens or does the water in the strainer pot just stand still?

You've got a push-pull / slide valve instead of a multiport. It's the vertical tube next to the filter with the handle on top. To backwash you turn off the pump, twist the handle to disengage the lock and then pull it up into the backwash position, then turn the pump back on. Once it runs...

At least he changes it. I've seen horrible things... :(