Recent content by Pauls234

12 or so winters in Chicago where my pool freezes solid every season and I've always followed TFP protocols, draining 4" or so below the return. I need to drain the cover periodically, primarily before deep freeze and then as things start to melt so water level in pool doesn't rise too high and...

Another thing to consider is that your logs often show FC over 10 which causes the Ph to test falsely high. Let it drop below 10 and then see what your Ph test looks like.

I was in the identical position a couple of years ago - exact replacement heater so no problem w plumbing or electric, but hesitant about gas connection given I'd never done it before, didn't want to pay $2k premium. I called my local plumber asked if they would do the gas connection only and...

And optimal sized heater is largest you can afford. I have a 21k gallon pool and my 400k BTU heater gives me 2 degrees/hour. You should get about twice that with 11k gallons. And that is awesome because you don't need to maintain a temp all week if you aren't swimming. As I've said in...

Did you need them last year when your pool was closed perfectly and opened to clear water this spring?

I notice people in my neighborhood close that way and plug the return and use a skimmer plate. Plenty on this forum have done so as well. I've always drained below the return, but for the past 5 years or so I've planned to do it the other way, and then chicken out and say why take the risk...

7.8 is fine. Enjoy it!

The science behind higher cya for swcg is around here somewhere and the discussion is well traveled ground. In simple terms, higher CYA means less chlorine loss due to UV so your swcg can be run at lower %, extending the life of the cell. I was LC jug lugger for 10 years before getting an...

18 years is a pretty good life span for an above ground pool. You are correct that plastic piece is in place to kind of lock the overlap liner in place - that single cracked piece is not important by itself and they are probably pretty inexpensive to replace, but yes, I would take that as a...

Best way I've found is to put a few mouse traps in the cabinet and check periodically. If mice are around they will find them. I'll come out to two dead mice, toss them and reset the traps. Next day another 2 dead mice, reset. Next day 1 dead mouse, reset. And so on until they stop showing...

There will always be differences because the cells use different methods than the k1766 to measure salt levels. K1766 is more accurate, but general rule is as long as your cell is happy and generating then there is no need to adjust.

That's evidence of progress so keep it going. You appear to have a light algae problem and no, seeing algae on floor but not on walls is not strange but fairly common, especially for AGP. It's safe to swim up to SLAM level, no one will notice, go swim.

Do you know how old the pool is or what kind of shape the actual structure/walls are in? If in good shape structurally (no rust) I'd consider just replacing the liner altogether. It's potentially a DIY job* (I replaced my 30 ft liner, literally by myself - no helping hands, which I do not...

Also on the chlorine drop test, you add drops until there is no longer a change in color. So in your above post #5 when adding that last drop makes it "more clear" that counts. If the next drop does nothing to the color/tint do not count it. Your water looks clear, but that definitely looks...