Recent content by onBalance

The pool shell hasn't shifted or raised so far, so that's good. I hope that removing two feet of water doesn't have any negative effect. I would think that the plaster company will drain the pool at least a day before plastering, just to get the bottom (or bowl) of the pool dry and patch the...

I am thinking that the yellow areas are from some calcium build up due to the plaster "dust" hardening in those areas that didn't get brushed during the first two weeks. If so, that calcium deposit can be easily removed by sanding with 80 grit wet&dry sandpaper. It does NOT harm the plaster...

The seriousness of the high water table problem would cause me to strongly consider waiting for the water table to go down. And the weep holes are a tremendous challenge to patch and keep dry while plastering. Perhaps by June it could be done?

With your TA and CH at those levels, once the pH reaches 8.0, I would start adding acid to keep the pH below 8.0 but also above 7.6. And then after a few weeks, start lowering the pH to 7.2 (with acid, not CO2) to being lowering the TA to normal levels.

Sounds like a good plan for checking the water volume. Glad to see that the plaster guy will remove the plaster cream and not water rinse the surface. Sorry about the tile problem and delay.

I prefer that no water rinsing be performed. For the accurate volume, make sure you subtract the step areas and curved walls.

If the pH isn't already 8.0 (which is okay) by the time the pool is full, just add small amounts of acid occasionally to keep the pH between 7.8 and 8.0 afterwards.

Are you certain that your pool is 24,000 gallons? The gallons of a pool are often over-estimated. Is the plasterer letting the pool sit for a day and giving the plaster a water rinse to exposed the aggregate?

The pH will rise quickly when the water touches the plaster. I have done tests to confirm that. It might even go above 7.8 before it is even filled. One thing that might change that result depends on how long the plaster is allowed to hydrate and harden before turning on the water. There a...

For plastering, the most important thing is to try and limit the amount of calcium chloride (hardening accelerator) added to the mix. One percent maximum to the weight of cement (sand aggregate not included). Adding sodium bicarbonate to raise the alkalinity above 150 ppm would raise the pH...

Did you recall seeing some plaster dust last year when your pool was plastered and filled with water?

I should add that your plaster may have some signs of etching because of the aggressive tap water. It would be a slight roughness to the feel. However, since the water was aggressive only for a short period of time, I don't know how much etching occurred. It may not be noticeable by sight or...

dylanac, I would agree that it "seems like both things can't be true" (both things being that bad plastering and a bad startup can't occur together. I understand that. However, two questions should be asked that would help explain why both things can be true at the same time. The first...

I believe that the pH of 7.2 of the well water will rise immediately while filling the pool due to the dissolving of a small amount of calcium hydroxide (from the plaster). That would also immediately reduce the amount of CO2 (in the water). Water that contains 200 ppm of alkalinity and a pH...

I agree with Joyfulnoise and Aquaholics that your well water with 200 ppm of alkalinity and 300 ppm of calcium hardness means no bicarb or calcium needs to be added during the filling process. That well water achieves the same effect as a bicarb startup program will prevent calcium hydroxide...