Recent content by lightmaster

Are there any reliable phosphate tests? In all my time owning pools, I've never once looked at that, and I know most people here treat phosphate remover as snake oil.

Hadn't thought of that, will check it today.

The very last menu screen says RJ-45 for mine, which is correct. And apparently there are little arrow buttons below the + and - buttons I've never noticed before that will cycle between all the models.

Ok, how do you change the cell type? I looked through the manual and didn't see anything about it. Will check if it's something obvious in the menu that's not in the manual once the rain stops today.

Their site told me to text my message to some number, but the text won't go through, keep saying failed to send.

After around 3-4 years of actual use and 3ish years of sitting in a shed? And if it was depleted, would it still produce copious amounts of chlorine when the check cell light isn't on?

Lol, that's a reference to Avatar

It throws the flow error at first (cuz there's no water flowing yet) then that goes away and it says generating, then at some point it goes to check cell. Pretty sure it's not the flow switch.

Also, when the cell is first turned on, it will produce visible clouds of what what I assume is hydrogen gas in the cell and water taken directly from the outlet in the pool turns a dark brown with the OTO drops, so it's definitely producing chlorine when it is throwing the Check Cell light.

I have a Circupool RJ45 SWG. Noticed last week that it was not producing chlorine and had the "low salt" and "check cell" lights lit up. I checked the salt and the drop test came back with 4400. The manual says it's good from 3000-4000, so it's a bit high, but it's not the high light that's...

This is what I'm still using, test it at the beginning of the swim season and then again every couple of months, so maybe 4 or 5 times a year. I bought a 100mL bottle off Amazon and 5 years later still have half the bottle left. Also, after 5 years, it still has the same deep blue color, so...

I disassembled the impeller motor. One of the bearings in it is seized up. Gonna try to find a replacement bearing and see if that gets it working.

Got the servo connected back right. Figured out which wire is DC+ and which is DC-. Think it's the impeller motor. Made a really odd grinding sound while turning, and when powered off, does not rotate smoothly by hand.

Both I tested both at the power supply and the other end of the cable, same readings for the 3 wires that are inside the cable. The connector on the PSU has 4 pins, but the cable has 3. Bigger issue right now is that I unplugged the servo from the robot's control board, and apparently that...

My Dolphin S300 is acting up. Runs for about 10-30 seconds in cleaning mode, but runs perfectly fine driving it manually. I noticed an error message in the app that says "DC In Voltage". I checked the impeller for any obstructions, but it was clear. I stumbled upon this troubleshooting guide...