Recent content by kmellp

Thank you very much @PoolGate and @mknauss, I truly appreciate it. Since everything here is Jandy and it does have iAquaLink automation, I would think it makes sense to stay with Jandy.

If that’s the case, should I completely replace it or maybe run it at 100% for some time + liquid chlorine and then replace it? I’m curious why such a small SWCG was installed in the first place.

@PoolGate My (somewhat mild) struggle continues: I'm having hard time maintaining recommended level of FC even with higher chlorination setting. Right now it's set to 80% with pump running for 15 hours at 1800 rpm. Yesterday, it was at 3.5 in the evening and this morning FC was at 2. At first...

Forgot to ask: should I be concerned with higher than recommended salt concentration (4300 vs 3600)? I would guess it will be consumed over the course of the season and shouldn’t be a huge issue.

I really appreciate your detailed answers! I added a bit of liquid chlorine to get me to ~7 ppm FC and from there I’ll keep experimenting with the chlorine percentage / pump run time to maintain that level.

In that case, should I be running it at 100% for 24h to maintain 5-11 FC range? I'm a bit struggling to understand why it was set to 40% by the previous owner and they didn't seem to have any issues with chlorine.

Got it. I’ll try running the pump at its original setting of 1750 RPM for 24h at 70% chlorination to see where it’ll get me in terms of FC.

Hello, I figured instead of creating a new thread I'll ask here. As I mentioned above, I replaced my SWC with a new one and at first I thought everything was good. I then change my pump RPM to 1400 and let it run for 16 hours. Noticed that over the course of 3 days my FC level was around 2 ppm...

Just a quick update: I replaced the SW cell and FC is sitting at 5 ppm firmly with 40% generation. Pretty happy with the result. Also, no low temp/low salt warning.

One thing I noticed is that there’s no “low temp/low salt” message when it’s boosting. Not sure if that’s how it’s supposed to be or not.

A quick update: after running chlorinator at 100% for 1.5 days, I’ve got FC to 5 ppm. CC is at 0. That’s with the old cell. The new one is coming today, but I wonder if I should keep using the old one for now - looks like it still has some life in it.

Really appreciate it!

Makes sense. To be clear, the only way to tell that the cell is dead is by observing how much chlorine it produces, right? Like there are no other explicit indicators. Also, would that explain why I’m seeing “low temp/low salt” warning or is that part unrelated?

While I’m not 100% certain, I believe this is the original cell that’s been installed with the pool in 2019. Should I just get it from Amazon or is there a better place to buy it from?

Got it. I’ve seen a pretty lengthy discussion here on how long people let their filter/chlorinator run and it seems that lots of people are running it 24/7. I’ve been running mine for 8 hours at 1750 rpm. After reading that thread I was thinking about switching it to 24/7 and reducing rpms to...