Recent content by JWBrandon

Okay, needed a day with some sun to report results. Today was 90 degrees outside at some points, and I had direct sunlight on the heater box again for the first time since Monday. I can verify that the box and the output temperature of it are much lower than what they were before, but you can...

okay, chopped off 15' of extra hose and replaced the spigots with full port quarter turn shutoffs. It looks like I can go about 30-40% closed on the return ball valve with the hose stuck in the pool before the pitch on the pump starts to change. I didn't take the time to measure, but there's...

Okay, so go with full port.. going to make that stop on the way home today. The shorter hoses I can do with hose repair kits and a knife, easy enough. As far as the valve placement goes, I think i know what you mean, but to be clear: I want to place a valve somewhere in the 1-1/2" return pipe...

Right, that's the part my friend clued me in to. Makes perfect sense when you stop listening to the internet and think for a second. The Poly that I'm using is scorching hot during the day, too, which also tells me there's a lot of heat not getting absorbed... also likely due to not enough water...

Some pictures are attached. Just to clarify, when I built it I was using information I had gleaned from several DIY sites. While I understand there probably weren't any engineers that specialized in thermo or fluid dynamics posting these howtos, a lot of them did agree on several key points...

Pardon me if this isn't the right folder, but as the questions I have are related to the plumbing for the home-made heater box that I put together, so this seemed the appropriate place. The heater I made uses about 200' of black poly (sprinkler) piping in a coil. I use 1-1/2" PVC for all of the...