Recent content by jacob_coulter

Re: Variable speed make difference with inline vs offline fe I have no agenda, but I'm asking a question in a forum regarding automation systems, not pool chemistry, and every response was something along the lines of "you shouldn't be using tablets" after I already said I'm a happy tablet user...

Re: Variable speed make difference with inline vs offline fe So the official policy is if you don't use the BBB method, you can't participate in this forum?

Re: Variable speed make difference with inline vs offline fe Sigh, I knew I would instead get lectures about BBB which is why I tried to to set that argument aside with "I've had really good luck using tablets." I've used tricolor tablets for over a decade, and I've yet to ever have to drain...

I've had really good luck using tablets and I like the idea of a chlorine feeder. I'll most likely go with a Pentair Rainbow unit, and I was set to buy the clear 320 inline model, but I've heard at low speeds it doesn't work well. I run my Intelliflo at around 1000-1200rpm, it's around 20k...

I have a fountain pump that runs for about 15 minutes, than shuts off, then starts up again after about 15 minutes. I have a small area to work with, and was trying to find a pump like the one I have on there. The fountain is about 6 feet tall with a spout on top, so that's about the power I...

Re: Anyone ever have the LCD screen go out on the Intelliflo A Pentair warranty repair technician came out and replaced the entire control module (but not the pump) free of charge. It took about 3 days for them to come out, but otherwise I was happy with Pentair's service. I would just...

Re: Anyone ever have the LCD screen go out on the Intelliflo That's what I'm seeing when I look at replacement parts, it's around $700 for the module. I love that I had a perfectly working "old school" pump that was over 20 years old that this was replaced with. If something like this...

I had an Intelliflo installed just a few months ago, and the lcd screen went out, it's simply blank. The pump seems to work fine, and my settings are intact. I have a 1 year warranty with the installer, but it's clear my "warranty" is just to dump me with Pentair. Is this an easy fix where...

Thanks for the response. So hypothetically, the more I "closed" the bypass off (turning the valve clockwise) the quicker it would get the water hot (assuming I don't shut the heater down)

The blue round valve that's labeled "heater bypass valve" The tan pump with the red shut off valve is the spa filter that runs through the heater. Assuming I need to put it on a "medium" setting, what heats up the spa faster, more closed than open? Or vice versa?

What exactly is the purpose of this valve? I'm not sure if something is wrong with my spa heater, but if I either open this valve all the way, or close it all the way, my heater goes into a "high limit" mode. If I open it up about half way, I can get the heater to work, but it seems to be...

So if you had to be "off" on your PH, it's easier on the skin to have a higher PH than a lower PH. IE, a 7.8 PH level is easier on skin/eyes than a 7.2 PH?

Is the "feel" purely the salt in the water? I thought some of it was the fact that there's no stabilizers with the chlorine so it cuts down on the stingy eyes/itchy skin part of the experience.

Thanks for all the feedback. I was aware that the new plaster caused the PH level to rise, but for some reason I thought that was a really short term phenomenon and I would be past that, not something that was going to last up to a year. I like the idea of shooting for a lower PH at longer...