Recent content by jackheney

Ok...seems easy enough to replace, was just trying to see if I could save a few bucks AND get a quick fix. Many, many thanks for the help...I couldn't be more appreciative.

Well...I think I found the problem. I pulled the motor off...there's rusty water sloshing around in the gear assembly: Actuator Rust I'm assuming my best option is to replace it at this point?

Also, I noticed a little bit of liquid shooting out from the lower part of the actuator shaft...not sure if that's a clue about the problem. Video here: Actuator - Top Off 2

HI Marty, thank you so much for the quick reply. Forgive the newbie questions, I just bought the house last year and am new to pool stuff. I took the entire actuator off to see if this was something in the valve itself. The valve can open/close cleanly, and even with the actuator decoupled...

When I flip my pool to spa mode, the return valve actuator tries to turn but gets hung up in a number of places and starts clicking loudly...I can force it (gently) the rest of the way around with a little manual pressure, and once in spa mode the same things happens going the other way when I...

I'm back...and James is a genius. I jumpered the fireman's switch and lo and behold I had heat! My shoddy work to deal with the mouse destruction needed a bit more cleaning up, but with some new connections to the fireman's switch the whole thing is put back together and up & running. I can't...

Ok...same problem (no lights on membrane panel on top of heater, no activity in the heater), but new data - Getting 27v on the secondary side of the transformer per the multimeter, and the fuse is still intact. So now I'm hypothesizing - fried control panel?

Ugh. I've been chasing ghosts. Looks like the pool company (I suppose reasonably) pulled the electrical line in the breaker box. I need to go shut off the sub-panel and reconnect...and then I suppose start this exercise all over again. Apologies, I should have validated the continuity before...

Measuring across the black and red terminals where the initial connection to the heater comes in yield 60V. I'm beginning to doubt both my multimeter and my electrical skills :) There's an electrical panel right by the pool equipment, let me give that a go.

Ok, I measured voltage on the Primary side. I get ~110V when I test red/white, but only 1V when I test black/white. I think that suggests I do have a problem on the Primary side, right?

Thanks Chris...the pool company clearly didn't dig in too deep, and then called me later in the day and said my only option was "replace the whole heater for $5K". Setting aside that it's only a $2700 unit, I was kind of annoyed that there was zero effort to actually diagnose the problem, let...

I guess the voltage levels on the primary side are the next thing I should check. I stuck a current detector on all the input wires and they're hot, but I didn't measure the voltage there. And sorry, I should have been more clear. The membrane control panel on the top of the unit is where...

No...none of the LEDs come on