Recent content by domct203

Your CH, CYA & pH results are impossibilities when using one of the recommended kits, so that is a give away you did not use one. I would make it a point to add calcium and balance CSI as soon as the weather allows.

You should be following the FC/CYA chart. Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart If your CYA is 90ppm, your daily target is 10-12ppm, and you should never allow the FC to go below 7ppm. If your CYA is 60ppm, your daily target is 7-9ppm, and you should never allow the FC to go below 5ppm. What...

I stared at the winter cover and sighed ....

The only thing rain is going to do is make you wet. Unless you get a monsoon, rain has very little effect on pool chemistry. Does your test kit contain a FAS/DPD (drop count, no color matching) chlorine test? Can’t properly perform the SLAM without it.

Following the procedure, lower pH to 7.2 and raise CYA to 30ppm in preparation for the SLAM. Before you do anything, do you have a proper test kit to complete a SLAM? How do you test?

Pool builders are great at building pools, as they should be, but most only echo what pool stores and chemical companies preach. In simple terms chlorine is a gas. When bound to salt it is sodium hypochlorite. Mixed with water it is commonly referred to as bleach, regardless of use. Straight...

It’s your pool, care for it as you wish. If you spend some time researching here on the forum, you will see many many posts where pool store testing is unreliable, and leads to unnecessary money spent and quite a chemical soup in your pool. With your last posted test results it does not...

Your pool is turning green because you are letting your FC drop too low. With a CYA of 50ppm, your FC should never go below 4ppm. Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

Closed her up today. It’s officially “not-pool season”

60F yesterday and today. Forecast highs for the week from Tuesday on are <60F. Guess I’ll be closing this coming weekend.

What makes you so certain it is the sealer? I would tend to agree that it’s the dirt and debris from the power wash. Follow Dave’s advise and you should be good.

I could live with #1 and #2, in fact I would worry that the repair would be obvious. #3 however, looks terrible. I would definitely discuss my options with the builder there.

As mentioned in the thread, it’s because you cannot accurately measure the pH during the SLAM. This is also stated in the prerequisites of the SLAM procedure.

Give the pool a good brushing to expose all the algae to the chlorine. Your FC will be under 10ppm in no time. Once you get pH to 7.2 go straight to SLAM.