Recent content by Deb04

  1. Deb04

    Help!

    You don’t need to drain the pool bc of “old water”. There are other reasons it may be necessary to drain some water, even a lot of water, but the age of it isn’t one of them. When you have a proper test kit, post your results and we’ll help you determine if and how much of your water needs to be...
  2. Deb04

    Can't keep my pool clean this summer!

    Think of all the pool chemicals you’ll save!
  3. Deb04

    Not sure I understand what's happening with pH and TA

    You can tell your pool company what to put, or not put, in your pool. I tell them not to put any chemicals in and I put them in myself the day before they come.
  4. Deb04

    Liquid chlorine questions

    Our initial cell lasted 13 yrs. The second cell is on yr 6 and doing fine. Ok, my cell operates only 6 mos a year, so justified to cut those numbers in 1/2 for a pool that's open all year.
  5. Deb04

    Liquid chlorine questions

    If you have Ocean State Job Lots near you, their 12.5% chlorine is $5.99/gallon.
  6. Deb04

    Can't keep my pool clean this summer!

    Try to drain before the rain and then you get free water refill.
  7. Deb04

    Can't keep my pool clean this summer!

    Because your CYA is so high. Your CYA is binding up so much of your FC that it can't do the job of killing algae. That's why it would be so helpful to replace 40% of your water to get your CYA down to 60.
  8. Deb04

    First full test (from Taylor 2006 kit)

    When you raise your CYA, calc what your target FC is and raise it with liquid chlorine. Then adjust your SWG to keep it there. SWG do a great job of keeping FC in range, but not so much raising FC more than a little bit.
  9. Deb04

    First Test with TF-Pro and bizarre FC readings?

    In the first post you said that CYA is > 80. If it is > 80, your SLAM target is higher than 31. If it’s >80, but 90 or less, target is 35. If it’s >90, you need to do a diluted CYA test.
  10. Deb04

    Can PH not change for over a month?

    My pH is always in the 7.4-7.6 range. Today I had to add MA for the first time in over a year bc there were several children doing cannonballs in the pool yesterday. I was thinking earlier about how I go through a gallon of MA about every 1-2 years and I buy the 1/2 strength stuff. My TA is 50.
  11. Deb04

    Need a little help please

    You can bring your pH down to 7.6 with muriatic acid. Your TA will drop a little too. Don’t let your TA go below 50. If it does, raise with baking soda.
  12. Deb04

    New test, first results with kit. Throw away your strips!

    Let the free chlorine come down on its own. It’s safe to swim at this level since it’s less than slam level, which is 16. This is, of course, assuming that your water is crystal clear. Keep FC at about 7 at that CYA level.
  13. Deb04

    Trying to get the pool ready...

    You need to add liquid chlorine to bring FC up to SLAM level, which is 12, not 3. Check and redose every 2 hours when possible, as you did. You just need to get FC to 12. In a couple of days, recheck CYA to see if it’s 30.
  14. Deb04

    White Murky Water

    Agreed. You've got an algae problem, as you know, and you need to SLAM the pool. If the water is white and cloudy, the algae is very significant and it will take days. No promise that it won't be a week or more. The algae has been happily multiplying. Time to stop it in its tracks.
  15. Deb04

    Trying to get the pool ready...

    OP has a cartridge filter, so no backwashing. Just didn't want to confuse OP.