Recent content by brock.travis

North Texas. The ground is pretty hard here.

Oh yeah, and I do have scale as a result of the CH being way to high.

Tap: FC = 0 PH = 7 TA = 100 CH = 90 CYA = 0 I plan to replace about 80% if the water so I didn't test the current water. Not to mention I'm out of regents.

Crud, cant remember. I'm at work. If i remember correctly, the tap water is pretty in balance save the alkalinity. I think the alkalinity of the tap was a lot lower than the pool should be.

I'm actually not starting up or closing the pool, just doing a drain and refill. I bought my house last summer. The last owners didn't take great care of the pool. The hardness is through the roof. So I'm going drain and refill now that the season is over. Anyone that has had to do a refill...

I did the calculations during the summer. You are better off just buying liquid chlorine (12%) at the pool store . It comes out about even if you were to buy the equivalent in bleach (6%). Plus you dont have to lug around as many bottles.

I live in the Dallas area. I make mine run from 12am - 4am. I have built in freeze protection that kicks on at 34 degrees. I figured I dont want the pool to run during the day and then run again at night when/if the freeze protection kicks in. The water seems too cold to eat through tabs very...

Nope, don't have auto fill unfortunately. it has been extremely hot here in texas the last few weeks so I wouldn't be surprised if it's all evaporation. this is my first summer with this pool so I don't know what is usual.

How long should I wait for the best idea if I have a problem?

I mean is it really as easy as just putting a bucket on a step and matching the water level and then waiting a few days to see if they are still the same?

I can’t seem to find the link to how to perform the bucket test to test for a leak. Can someone post the link? What I read in Pool School wasn't what I remembered seeing before.

Thanks for the clarification. Just a whole bunch of data I’m trying to absorb at once. I was incorrect in thinking it was an exact science (ones and zeros, right and wrong, yes and no) and that you actually have to ‘play’ with it. After all, it’s not a laboratory environment and time...

I wonder why the pool store recommends no more than 4ppm.

Okay, so I should shock the pool according to the document in Pool School. Each dose should be the 18ppm (by calculator) or 24ppm (by chart), right? Where does the target FC of 7ppm come into play in my case? (according to the chart)

isn't this chemistry? Shouldn't the numbers be more exact? what about the questions in my second post?