New to the Pool Scene, (above ground, SWG intex system)

[HoweHome]

We're still in the ground setup phase, taking our time, trying to do it right so we don't have any problems.
Our pool will be 10x16 ft. The box says it holds 3,600 ga. We will be using an intex sand filter SWG system.
Trying to educate myself in between worktimes on the Initial water fill process and start up chemicals/items needed to hopefully start with good water and keep good water.
We plan on adding a hayward skimmer and directional return eye while setting up to help the water flow and filter process.
I have a water test kit and strips ordered to test our water before filling to see where we're starting from.
There seems to be differing opinions on what to actually START with, most advice is geared towards Fixing problems, not what to do Right from fill up.
Anyone have experience with this small kind of system? Anybody do anything besides dump salt in at startup? (Which seems to be all I find on the "setup" vids for these pools on YouTube)
I know it's a small pool, but I still want clear pleasant safe water for my kids to splash around in!
We live near a mine, so there's a chance metals could be an issue, do I need a sequestering agent on startup? A hose filter while filling? (Alot of the hose filters don't have raving reviews )
Anyways appreciate any advice!

 

[jeffchap]

First of all, forget about test strips. The only thing they measure accurately is the depth of your trash can.

Get either the Taylor K2006 or TF-100 test kits commonly recommended here. This will be the best money you will ever spend.

Fill your pool with the salt in it. The fill water will help mix it up faster. Once the pool is full and the salt all dissolved, add enough cyanuric acid, aka CYA or stabilizer, using Pool Math to calculate the amount needed to add 70 ppm for your 3600 gallon pool.

Then add liquid chlorine (you can use plain, unscented laundry bleach, not splashless) to achieve a free chlorine (FC) level of 5 -7 ppm. Personally, I like to target 7 and never let it drop below 5. You need to use liquid chlorine at start up because your saltwater generator only produces chlorine at a very slow rate, and not enough for the initial startup.

Turn your SWG on and monitor your FC level daily to determine how long it needs to run to maintain your FC above 5 ppm. Adjust as required. 8 hours per day is probably a good starting point.

Check your pH periodically and use muriatic acid available from any hardware store to lower it into the 7.2 to 7.8 range. Saltwater generators tend to make your pH creep upward over time. Keeping it in this range will help prevent scaling on your SWG cell.

That's pretty much all there is to get started on a beautiful, sparkling TFP pool.

 

[Newdude]

Welcome Mrs Howe !!!! We got you now. Jeff KILLED it above.

start your journey here ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

we will gladly fill in any blanks and guide you until you are your own pro.

First of all, forget about test strips. The only thing they measure accurately is the depth of your trash can

*nominates Jeff for best comment on the interwebs today.

 

[HoweHome]

First of all, forget about test strips. The only thing they measure accurately is the depth of your trash can.

Get either the Taylor K2006 or TF-100 test kits commonly recommended here. This will be the best money you will ever spend.

Fill your pool with the salt in it. The fill water will help mix it up faster. Once the pool is full and the salt all dissolved, add enough cyanuric acid, aka CYA or stabilizer, using Pool Math to calculate the amount needed to add 70 ppm for your 3600 gallon pool.

Then add liquid chlorine (you can use plain, unscented laundry bleach, not splashless) to achieve a free chlorine (FC) level of 5 -7 ppm. Personally, I like to target 7 and never let it drop below 5. You need to use liquid chlorine at start up because your saltwater generator only produces chlorine at a very slow rate, and not enough for the initial startup.

Turn your SWG on and monitor your FC level daily to determine how long it needs to run to maintain your FC above 5 ppm. Adjust as required. 8 hours per day is probably a good starting point.

Check your pH periodically and use muriatic acid available from any hardware store to lower it into the 7.2 to 7.8 range. Saltwater generators tend to make your pH creep upward over time. Keeping it in this range will help prevent scaling on your SWG cell.

That's pretty much all there is to get started on a beautiful, sparkling TFP pool.

Thanks for the info! I read the post on SWG here and they too mentioned keeping the FC at 4-6 ppm. My question is this, the manual for the intex system recommends a FC level of .5-3 ppm (?!)
Why would they recommend something so low? Is it "safe" to go against the systems manual (they recommend a 2 hr run time for my size pool) or will damage be done by running it/using it more than suggested? The system is actually on the large size for our pool. According to them anyway.
Another question, several people (elsewhere) stated that you shouldn't swim while the chlorine is being produced by the SWG system, but the manual doesn't say that anywhere....
Is that true?

 

[HoweHome]

Welcome Mrs Howe !!!! We got you now. Jeff KILLED it above.

start your journey here ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

we will gladly fill in any blanks and guide you until you are your own pro.

*nominates Jeff for best comment on the interwebs today.

Thanks, I did start there, it helped alot! I actually got the test strips to see how bad they were against the real test kit! For curiosity sake..

 

[Newdude]

I actually got the test strips to see how bad they were against the real test kit! For curiosity sake

There are times they can be close. There are times they are a mile off. Strip to strip you have no clue if that’s a good one. Many people use them as a backup quick test. They’ll believe they have 8FC due to frequent testing and knowing their pool. They’ll dip a strip in which says they have between 6-10. It’s close enough for that case. But to actually dose from it is begging for trouble.

 

[Newdude]

My question is this, the manual for the intex system recommends a FC level of .5-3 ppm (?!)
Why would they recommend something so low?

Industry guidelines following government guidelines that haven’t been updated since the 80s. Literally.

Is it "safe" to go against the systems manual (they recommend a 2 hr run time for my size pool) or will damage be done by running it/using it more than suggested

They have a lifespan based on hours used. More hours means less life. But you need the FC that you need and you got it to not lug jugs of chlorine. So use it to produce what you need. If it’s got a set timer you may have to ‘run’ it several times in a row.

several people (elsewhere) stated that you shouldn't swim while the chlorine is being produced by the SWG system

Several people (elsewhere) once said to drink bleach to clean yourself of coming in contact with the Corona virus.

It is as safe as can be. It is actually a great thing to keep the FC ‘topped off’ as you swim as you never EVER want to get near minimum for your FC. ‘Minimum’ doesn’t have the gravity it deserves. It should be called ‘DEFCON-5 full swamp ahead’. People would have a better respect for it if it was. And they’d have no excuse for the results if they slacked.

 

[setsailsoon]

Why would they recommend something so low? Is it "safe" to go against the systems manual (they recommend a 2 hr run time for my size pool) or will damage be done by running it/using it more than suggested? The system is actually on the large size for our pool. According to them anyway.
Another question, several people (elsewhere) stated that you shouldn't swim while the chlorine is being produced by the SWG system, but the manual doesn't say that anywhere....
Is that true?

Howe,

Welcome to TFP! You've come to the right place and we may be able to save you a lot of trouble and $$. One of the most important things about TFP is we sell nothing. Just a bunch of experts plus experienced pool enthusiasts that help people use the proven science-based TFP methods. It works great and it's dirt cheap since we use mostly generic big box chemicals instead of expensive pool store chemicals.

Please do read the info recommended above. Ask any questions you may have. On the questions above the answer to #1 is there are so many sources of totally baseless garbage recommendations it's amazing. I have no idea why it is but just ignore them. Any time you see a recommendation for FC level and it's not referencing CYA level it can't be right. Question #2 is just another example of pool science ignorance. SWG units produce chlorine very slowly and for the unit you're using it's way less than one pound per day and it's mixed with water in the cell. Any FC level below the SLAM level is quite safe to swim in. Test the returns FC level and I'm sure you'll. be well into the safe zone.

I hope this helps.

Chris

 

[jeffchap]

Just to reiterate what's already been said, it's plenty safe to swim while the SWG is running. I've had multiple Intex AGP pools with SWGs over the years, and I never worried about it.

And the .5 - 3 ppm guideline is probably for water with little to no stabilizer. Stabilizer binds chlorine so that it lasts longer and is less harsh.

 

[HoweHome]

Thanks again everyone! Just curious, do I need to worry about metals in the water? Some people talked about a hose filter while filling. We live near a mine so there's a good chance of them....

 

[setsailsoon]

Howe,

I'd suggest you get a sample tested for metals. You can buy decent tests for iron and copper or you can send a sample away. Pool stores also have a metals test. While we find their results for other tests unreliable the metals test is often petty close. Another sourced is to look for your municipal water departments annual water test report. In general my experience is that .3 ppm or higher of iron/copper can eventually cause stains. .5 ppm or higher will result in staining much faster. Here's more information from our own wiki on iron and here's one for copper. Do you plan to run your pool all year round?

Chris

 

[HoweHome]

So pool is up and at least 75% filled, we started around 4 pm yesterday. We are working on parts for the skimmer/ pump system because the adapter parts we got with it were the wrong ones.
My question is this, it's really hot here and being new to all this, I have no idea how fast algae starts. If it takes a full 24 hrs till we can add chemicals with the pump running (right now there is only salt in it because I put it in while filling as recommended) will we be ok?
How do I add any bleach/anything else while we don't have a pump system hooked up yet?
If I need to stand and brush the pool for 30 min to mix stuff in to prevent algae taking hold I'm willing to!
Thanks for the help

 

[Newdude]

If I need to stand and brush the pool for 30 min to mix stuff in to prevent algae taking hold I'm willing to

Do exactly that but for 5 mins. Chlorine is heavier than water and it will sink. Brushing the floor will stir it up into the water.

With no CYA the sun will be able to burn off the FC in an hour or so. Test/Add a few times a day and get working on getting CYA in there now.

 

[HoweHome]

Howe,

I'd suggest you get a sample tested for metals. You can buy decent tests for iron and copper or you can send a sample away. Pool stores also have a metals test. While we find their results for other tests unreliable the metals test is often petty close. Another sourced is to look for your municipal water departments annual water test report. In general my experience is that .3 ppm or higher of iron/copper can eventually cause stains. .5 ppm or higher will result in staining much faster. Here's more information from our own wiki on iron and here's one for copper. Do you plan to run your pool all year round?

Chris

Thanks!

 

[HoweHome]

Do exactly that but for 5 mins. Chlorine is heavier than water and it will sink. Brushing the floor will stir it up into the water.

With no CYA the sun will be able to burn off the FC in an hour or so. Test/Add a few times a day and get working on getting CYA in there now.

Ok, will do!! We will start working on it as soon as stores open to get parts (small town and stores open later because it's Sunday)
If I can dissolve some CYA in a bucket and add it a glas jar at a time with lots of stirring/brushing in between will it help some? I know it won't get it near optimum levels, but is it OK to do any chemicals with no pump?
I mean, there are pools with no pumps like the inflatable ring kind, how do they add chemicals?

 

[Newdude]

*you* will be the pump. Mix away. Make sure to keep all chemicals away from each other as good practice so only add one at a time. Once in the water they are all great together.

 

[HoweHome]

*you* will be the pump. Mix away. Make sure to keep all chemicals away from each other as good practice so only add one at a time. Once in the water they are all great together.

I figured thanks so much!

 

[ChiknNutz]

Thanks for the info! I read the post on SWG here and they too mentioned keeping the FC at 4-6 ppm. My question is this, the manual for the intex system recommends a FC level of .5-3 ppm (?!)
Why would they recommend something so low? Is it "safe" to go against the systems manual (they recommend a 2 hr run time for my size pool) or will damage be done by running it/using it more than suggested? The system is actually on the large size for our pool. According to them anyway.
Another question, several people (elsewhere) stated that you shouldn't swim while the chlorine is being produced by the SWG system, but the manual doesn't say that anywhere....
Is that true?

What SWG did you go with? I'd like to move to SWG, but having a hard time justifying the upfront expense. All the SWGs I've found are far larger than needed for a 6k gallon pool (yes I know you should oversize it).

 

[Newdude]

What SWG did you go with? I'd like to move to SWG, but having a hard time justifying the upfront expense. All the SWGs I've found are far larger than needed for a 6k gallon pool (yes I know you should oversize it

The smaller the pool the harder the financial justification is. The break even point is around 12k-15k gallons. The initial buy is the biggest investment. After that they double in lifespan for 20% more cost.

Now, many people still go SWG with smaller pools but it’s for convenience and not cost.

 

[jeffchap]

Back when I had an Intex pool and SWG, I used to keep a spare one on hand as they're only good for a couple of seasons before you have to replace the cell. A new cell used to cost around $75. Towards the end of the summer as stores were trying to clear their shelves, I would sometimes find the entire unit for right around $100 at Academy Sporting goods.