Reducing High Calcium Levels in Pools

onBalance

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Jul 25, 2011
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Many of us may have had the unfortunate experience of adding soda ash to raise the pH and turned the pool water a milky white… in fact, we refer to it as “milking” a pool. Why does that happen and what does that do to the water?

Well, the soda ash (sodium carbonate) is normally very soluble in the water and goes into solution almost immediately. But it also can raise the pH and the Saturation Index high enough to cause calcium bicarbonate (dissolved calcium in the pool water, or calcium hardness) to precipitate. The white cloud you see is not actually the soda ash, but precipitated calcium carbonate.

If a small amount of calcium carbonate is precipitated and creates some cloudiness, it generally and gradually, usually within minutes, re-dissolves and clears up. The added carbonate (from soda ash) blends through the pool, changing and becoming bicarbonates of calcium and sodium, and the pH and the alkalinity rise, as planned. But if too much calcium is precipitated, it triggers a reaction that results in calcium carbonate precipitate that does not typically dissolve back into the rest of the water.

When a pool is milked, steps can be taken to either re-dissolve the calcium (by lowering the pH using acid until the Saturation Index value is low enough so that the calcium carbonate becomes bicarbonate and is re-solubilized), or we can filter out the precipitate and lower the calcium level.

The advantage of the first option is that within an hour or two the pool water can be clear again, but with everything (including the calcium!) back where it came from. The advantage of the second is that we pool water can be softened by reducing the calcium hardness level, but the pool will be cloudy through the filtration process, which may take days or a week.

By manipulating the water’s saturation chemistry, calcium can be removed via an ion exchange-style process of adding sodium to remove calcium, and then clear the water by filtration.

By way of example, we helped a pool owner who’s 18,000-gallon pool had a calcium hardness level of 1196 ppm, a pH of 8.2, and a total alkalinity of 180. The pool owner did not want to drain the pool unless they really had to, so they contacted us. We added 70 pounds of soda ash to the pool. This precipitated around 70 pounds of calcium carbonate, which was filtered from the pool. The resultant readings were a calcium hardness level of 589 ppm, a pH of 7.5, and a total alkalinity of 158.

Wait a minute! Didn’t adding 70 POUNDS of soda ash cause a HUGE increase in pH and alkalinity? Actually, and perhaps surprisingly, no. Since there is an almost one-to-one exchange of alkaline materials (sodium carbonate in and calcium carbonate out), the pH and the alkalinity actually stayed about the same.

Caustic soda (sodium hydroxide or NaOH) can also be used instead of soda ash to precipitate calcium. Less material is required for the same result, but sodium hydroxide may not be available and convenient as the soda ash.

There are variables in how much calcium is precipitated from a given amount of soda ash. These include water temperature (the higher the temperature, the more precipitate), the existing level of calcium, and addition method (the more “localized” the addition method, the more precipitate).

We have found that a simple application of chemistry can save a pool owner from the necessity of draining their pool, and that the calcium carbonate precipitate should not adhere to the pool surface if continually brushed and removed by filtration quickly.

This procedure, however, does not lower CYA or TDS levels.
 
What a great article Kim! That process reminds me somewhat of pool owners who raise pH solely to precipitate iron in an effort to filter it out as well. Very good reference to know about for those who may have no alternative to draining. We've has a few already this year.

By filtering out, anything special to be aware of other than their typical sand, cartridge, or DE filter cleaning?

Thanks again for posting.
 
This is groundbreaking...especially for pool owners who have challenges with draining.

Is there, or will there be a formula for the amount of soda ash to add given other applicable variables?

Is it possible to add this method of calcium removal to Pool Math?

Thanks for posting!
 
I gave thought a few years ago to try and precipitate the Calcium.

I figured I wouldn't be able to control it and it would end up scaling the walls before I could vacuum and filter it all out. Then I thought about getting a new plastic trash can and do batches. Precipitate, let it settle, siphon off the clear stuff, dump the last few inches. But the expense of a can and lye and the water wasted and no guarantee it would work well made me decide to stick with what I do- partial drains all season long, watering the grass. It also reduces CYA, which allows me to use pucks in a floater a few times a season when I leave town.
 
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I would like to add a word of caution about this method of removing calcium. In chemical engineering terms, this is referred to as "lime softening" or in some cases "pellet softening". Yes, it chemically works as stated. Sodium Carbonate is a good chemical for this. Sodium hydroxide is very dangerous to handle, and it can only remove carbonate hardness, and will not touch non-carbonate hardness. If you use sodium hydroxide, you may actually deplete all carbonate elements of alkalinity while still leaving lots of dissolved calcium in the pool. Fully filtering out the resultant nano particle size calcium carbonate is very very difficult to nearly impossible with traditional filtration equipment. Some of the precipitate will be larger and can be filtered. Some will just settle to the pool floor. DE will filter the larger particles out to a large extent but the many tens of pounds of precipitate will tend to slough off of vertical DE grids. Once this happens, the filtering of the precipitate mostly stops. I have tried this a number of times and in the end I have resorted to adding acid to the pool water to dissolve the truly fine calcium carbonate back into solution. The good news is that the pool will go from milky to crystal clear in just a few seconds. The DE filter must be cleaned out before you add the acid, or the filtered calcium carbonate in the filter will also just get redissolved. The added acid and sodium carbonate both add to the overall salt levels in the pool, but this is not too dramatic.

Another note to add is that any dissolved metals will likely co-precipitate or "plate" out onto the pool walls. Metals have very low solubility at high pH levels. If the metals precipitate onto the precipitated calcium carbonate and get filtered out, you are in luck. If they plate onto the walls, you may not be too pleased.

I had some luck using Duda Diesel filtration bags which eliminate some of the above stated problems. Of course it may take many days for the water to clear up. Also, the precipitate that settles to the bottom of the pool is hard to remove via vacuuming.

Best of luck to those who may want to pursue this as an option. It is an educational experience to say the least. Plan on a time consuming activity!
 
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A great article and some great comments along with it. The objection to reducing CH by draining would have to be REALLY STRONG for it to make sense costwise and effort wise, I think.

Nevertheless, sometimes the conditions may present themselves and it is nice to know the possibility exists. Thanks, Kim.
 
Del, thank you for the added information.
You are correct that filters will need cleaning often. And I agree that this process can precipitate out metals.
Although I haven't been able to confirm everything regarding this process, I offer the following additional information.
I believe that it is more likely that the metals will first attach to the precipitated calcium and then be removed by filtration.

Sodium hydroxide is a hazardous chemical, as you stated, but it can be used with a little care. It comes as a liquid or in flake form. Under the right conditions, such as raising the pH high enough, sodium hydroxide can also remove magnesium, a non-carbonate hardness. But that can be difficult to achieve. It is soda ash (sodium carbonate) that only removes carbonate hardness.
 
I am probably splitting hairs at this point, but here is a bit more. Yes, sodium hydroxide can precipitate out magnesium hardness as well as carbonate hardness. Magnesium ions are not generally a problem to just keep in solution as they will not really contribute to any real world pool scaling problems. Magnesium needs is really very soluble in water and needs really high pH to drop out of solution. When pH is reduced by adding hydrochloric (muriatic) acid, carbonate levels can be changed to (in simplified terms - not actually fully accurate) to calcium chloride. In this form, the calcium cannot be removed with sodium hydroxide, but it can be removed with sodium carbonate. To form calcium carbonate, you need a carbonate to start with! It probably does not make too much difference, except that you might increase the pH too much with sodium hydroxide and allow dissolved metals to just precipitate out of solution without be attached to a calcium carbonate particles if insufficient carbonate is present. Then, you need to deal with the suspended metal particles. I hope that this adds at least something to the discussion. I learned a lot about pool chemistry in trying some of these tests, in some ways it was fun.
 
At one point, phosphate was promoted to reduce calcium by forming calcium phosphate.

I think that most people have discontinued the practice because of the high phosphate levels left after the process.

I think that Cal Treat by United Chemicals is sodium hexametaphosphate (and possibly sulfamic acid and sodium bisulfate).

Trisodium phosphate was one chemical used to reduce calcium.

Phosphate is not something that should be used in a pool.
 
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From a starting CSI of ~1.39 and a bit of effort the CH has down by by ~600ppm and the CSI down to ~0.36 @ a pH of 7.5, great if you really want to avoid draining the pool. How about someone who has a CH of 600ppm and assuming they have a DE or cartridge filter, can they use this method to bring the CH down to 300ppm? If the pH is brought up to 8.2 the CSI wont be as high as it was with a CH of 1200ppm.

Edit: Leading on from my question above I assume there is a reason you didn’t choose to add 105 pounds of soda ash to go down to a CH of 300ppm? And is there an ideal CSI target to start this process at?
 
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I would suggest that you do a bit of "kitchen chemistry" before you try this for real. Just take a liter or so of pool water and do a scaled down version on the one liter. You will need to use a small scale to weigh out the sodium carbonate and you need to do a bit of math. I think you will see the precipitation take place at about 10.3 or so. It gets more and more difficult to make this work as the CH goes down, but I do not think that getting to 300 would be a problem.
 
Del, as I see it, adding sodium hydroxide raises the pH, and as pH rises, more carbonate is formed which can combine with the high Calcium content to form calcium carbonate precipitate. I would gladly consider contrary information to that chemistry. I have not personally used caustic soda to see what the results are. But it makes sense to me that it would work.
Another example is that adding calcium hydroxide will also precipitate calcium carbonate. So it doesn't take adding a carbonate to precipitate out calcium carbonate.

Steve, there is a limit to reducing high calcium levels. At what point that is, I am not sure. But I think it is possible to lower a 600 ppm calcium level to lower levels using this method. I agree with Del that getting down to 300 may be problematic.
 
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I think you will see the precipitation take place at about 10.3 or so.

At a pH of 10.3?

I think the kitchen chemistry is a great place for any attempt to start. A DE or cartridge filter is a prerequisite so that rules me out with a sand filter. And I believe is was said the filtering to waste is not a good option either.
 
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Just to add a bit more insight, I wanted to comment on what OnBalance commented on with respect to sodium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide only forms calcium carbonate from carbonate ions. It does a really good job of doing so, as long as there are available carbonate ions in the water. If the pH goes too high, then some magnesium compounds can also precipitate out. If it converts the dissolved carbon dioxide in the water into carbonate by shifting the equilibrium over to carbonate from dissolved carbon dioxide, then so long as carbonate is present, the sodium hydroxide can remove it as OnBalance commented on. If all of the carbon dioxide gets exhausted, then no calcium carbonate will precipitate, as there would be no carbonate available for it to form from. As for calcium oxide, yes that works, but not quite as you might think. Calcium oxide, also known as lime is "slacked" when added to water. This makes it turn into Calcium Hydroxide. The irony of using calcium oxide, is that you are adding more calcium to take out calcium. So, you will end up with two mols of calcium carbonate precipitate for every mol of calcium oxide added, and thus make TWICE as much calcium carbonate precipitate in the process. This is just more stuff to have to filter out! Yes, it does indeed work, and it does not leave behind sodium chloride salt in the pool. Calcium oxide is somewhat similar to sodium hydroxide in terms of safety, so be careful should anyone decide to try it.
 
Two comments.

As a chemist, I would caution on the use of sodium hydroxide. It is very nasty. I am very at ease dealing with strong acids but am very careful with sodium hydroxide solutions. If you spill acid on your skin, it’s simple to rinse it off. Sodium hydroxide requires a much more thorough and careful rinsing. That soapy feelings you get on your fingers when you get some on your hand is the process of saponification where the hydroxide is turning you into soap.

I was successfully managing our pool chemistry at Ca levels of 1100 ppm but it was tedious and required very careful management of pH. Draining and refilling wasn’t really an option since we were in the worst part of the California drought and the refill water wasn’t exactly low (350 ppm) in Ca. What I did was bring in a pool reverse osmosis service. This usually takes 12 hours but because of our sky high Ca, it took 24 hrs. We ended up with water that was absolutely pristine.
 
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